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      11-30-2011, 08:43 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by cooler2442 View Post
Also have to remember that the LSD for the DCT is extremely expensive at that $4600 figure.
True. I also saw 4k in wheels and tires, 4k in brakes, almost 3k in carbon fiber bits, etc. The majority of the power / handling could be had for probably less than half of what was indicated as a total.

Either way - Congrats to Harold on building a great car and getting some exposure!
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      11-30-2011, 09:25 PM   #24
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True. I also saw 4k in wheels and tires, 4k in brakes, almost 3k in carbon fiber bits, etc. The majority of the power / handling could be had for probably less than half of what was indicated as a total.

Either way - Congrats to Harold on building a great car and getting some exposure!
Sounded to me like a bit of a commercial for HP Autowerks. There is a rather large market of 135i owners who are going to want to upgrade to 1M performance and I'm sure HPA would love to be the ones who sells them their bits and pieces. Again, with a simple tune for less than $1000 it goes back to the 1M being the better car because of tire options alone.
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      11-30-2011, 09:36 PM   #25
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This review holds more value in countries like Australia where the price premium for the M is almost 40k over the 135i. IMHO, if I was buying today I'd go for the 1M and just do the performance mods
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      11-30-2011, 09:48 PM   #26
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There are already 6 tuning companies that will produce up to 450hp for the 1M. The writer is naive.
Also:
M is an M is an M.
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      11-30-2011, 10:43 PM   #27
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You guys are completely missing the point of the article IMO.

Take a look at the mod list again.

In the engine section add everything except the lightweight battery = $3230

In the brakes and drivetrain add everything but switch the final drive to a manual unit ($2600)= $6,683

Forget the body, the 1M doesn't have any bling so we'll negate this on the 135.

Suspension and Wheels add everything except TC Kline studs and Breytons, add PS2's at roughly $1000 = $6,872

Total is $16,785. If you switch the Stoptech Trophy for Sport you save another $1500 bring the total to only $15,285. The 135i in this article didn't need the Trophys, Breytons, etc. You could probably even get away with out the intercooler and downpipe which would remove another $1500 which takes it to $13,800. If you ditch the big brake completely, it's down to $11,300. The 6 piston Brembos that come stock aren't as good as a proper big brake but are certainly no slouch.

The point of all this, is that you can build a car that will be close to, match or exceed the performance of the 1M. No, it does not come with an M badge. If you take the last quoted price I listed, $11,300 (with DCT $13,300) and add it to the MSRP, you are at $51K and change ($53k with DCT).

The other factor that you seem to have all forgotten now that you have your 1M's, is that there aren't any available and if there are, they are not going for MSRP. I believe, and I could be wrong, that this article was geared towards the enthusiast that either already owns a 135, gets a company lease, would like a lower insurance premium, wants DCT, missed the boat on purchasing a 1M, etc, etc.

Last edited by bimmer ///man; 11-30-2011 at 11:58 PM.
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      11-30-2011, 11:03 PM   #28
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Good read. Both great cars!

How about putting a flash tune on the 1M for $1k and then doing a test?

Problem is that a modded 135i will never retain it's value of the added parts, which limits re-sale, or reduces audience of potential buyers wanting a stock vs. modded car. There are always issues with modding... insurance, warranty, compatibility etc.

Out the box the 1M is ready as is... my opinion is biased though
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      11-30-2011, 11:30 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianf2002 View Post
Good read. Both great cars!

How about putting a flash tune on the 1M for $1k and then doing a test?

Problem is that a modded 135i will never retain it's value of the added parts, which limits re-sale, or reduces audience of potential buyers wanting a stock vs. modded car. There are always issues with modding... insurance, warranty, compatibility etc.

Out the box the 1M is ready as is... my opinion is biased though
And if you do Mod the 1M, you better keep all the stock parts as the car will be probably worth more completely stock!
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      11-30-2011, 11:32 PM   #30
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And if you do Mod the 1M, you better keep all the stock parts as the car will be probably worth more completely stock!
IMO only mods required are a handheld flash tune & an Akra
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      11-30-2011, 11:48 PM   #31
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I thought it was a great read Harold...thx. That said, I would not use next year's tuition to buy a 1M if my daughter said "I am dropping out of school and you can't do anything about it"...I would buy an M3. White, CF roof, & black wheels My 135i has plenty whp with the current mods including a much improved suspension so I am quite pleased with my ride. The 1M looks great and is an awesome ride but I dont need one, nor want one.
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      12-01-2011, 12:02 AM   #32
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Quote:
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IMO only mods required are a handheld flash tune & an Akra
and a METH KIT
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      12-01-2011, 12:16 AM   #33
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and a METH KIT
and a model, like ur pic.
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      12-01-2011, 01:12 AM   #34
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Great article.
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      12-01-2011, 01:47 AM   #35
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and a model, like ur pic.
< More pics in my garage
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      12-01-2011, 02:31 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmer ///man View Post
You guys are completely missing the point of the article IMO.

Take a look at the mod list again.

In the engine section add everything except the lightweight battery = $3230

In the brakes and drivetrain add everything but switch the final drive to a manual unit ($2600)= $6,683

Forget the body, the 1M doesn't have any bling so we'll negate this on the 135.

Suspension and Wheels add everything except TC Kline studs and Breytons, add PS2's at roughly $1000 = $6,872

Total is $16,785. If you switch the Stoptech Trophy for Sport you save another $1500 bring the total to only $15,285. The 135i in this article didn't need the Trophys, Breytons, etc. You could probably even get away with out the intercooler and downpipe which would remove another $1500 which takes it to $13,800. If you ditch the big brake completely, it's down to $11,300. The 6 piston Brembos that come stock aren't as good as a proper big brake but are certainly no slouch.

The point of all this, is that you can build a car that will be close to, match or exceed the performance of the 1M. No, it does not come with an M badge. If you take the last quoted price I listed, $11,300 (with DCT $13,300) and add it to the MSRP, you are at $51K and change ($53k with DCT).

The other factor that you seem to have all forgotten now that you have your 1M's, is that there aren't any available and if there are, they are not going for MSRP. I believe, and I could be wrong, that this article was geared towards the enthusiast that either already owns a 135, gets a company lease, would like a lower insurance premium, wants DCT, missed the boat on purchasing a 1M, etc, etc.
I gotta respectfully disagree, it seemed pretty clear to me that the point of the article was whether a tuned 135i or a 1M was better.

The article says that a main factor is cost. And the stock 135i brakes are no slouch, but they sure as hell aren't the brakes on the 1M/M3. So imho to be close to a 1M we'd have to use your $15,285 total, so the cost of the 135i is still greater than that of the 1M.

And if you're going to talk about lower insurance premium, what about risk of no warranty covered work? Not to mention (maybe the DCT really is that amazing) but my cousin with JB3 135i gets the same gas mileage as me.

My main issue is that the cost comparison is seriously flawed. And a comparison of driving characteristics is equally missing. At least one that would warrant a decision on which is the better car.
Why take availability into consideration when its a fact that they're basically sold out. How would a review make any sense if it took that into consideration and prefered the car that wasn't available?
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      12-01-2011, 08:05 AM   #37
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and nobody takes into consideration how much it costs to INSTALL all of the above.
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      12-01-2011, 08:41 AM   #38
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and nobody takes into consideration how much it costs to INSTALL all of the above.
And shipping and freight if you live overseas
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      12-01-2011, 08:44 AM   #39
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I understand the article, and agree that a tuned 135 would be a great car. My only concern, and I feel it would be legit having owned a bunch of cars over a period of time, is that one would spend a bunch of money tuning a car (in this case the 135), and not realize the costs when it came time to sell the car. Most will say that most if not all the money spent in tuning a car is not recouped when the car is sold.

So, you may spend 10, 15 or 20K to upgrade a car, you will not get the costs back when you sell it.

Granted the 1M will depreciate - when it all comes right down to it - it is still a car - but considering the 1M costs roughly 50 to 54K MSRP, and a "Tuned 135 will cost you rougly 5 - 10K more than that according to the quoted figures, I have a pretty good idea which will be worth more in 3 years, 5 years, 10 years...and I think it will be the bulldog with the fat fenders.
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      12-01-2011, 11:45 AM   #40
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I gotta respectfully disagree, it seemed pretty clear to me that the point of the article was whether a tuned 135i or a 1M was better.

The article says that a main factor is cost. And the stock 135i brakes are no slouch, but they sure as hell aren't the brakes on the 1M/M3. So imho to be close to a 1M we'd have to use your $15,285 total, so the cost of the 135i is still greater than that of the 1M.

And if you're going to talk about lower insurance premium, what about risk of no warranty covered work? Not to mention (maybe the DCT really is that amazing) but my cousin with JB3 135i gets the same gas mileage as me.

My main issue is that the cost comparison is seriously flawed. And a comparison of driving characteristics is equally missing. At least one that would warrant a decision on which is the better car.
Why take availability into consideration when its a fact that they're basically sold out. How would a review make any sense if it took that into consideration and prefered the car that wasn't available?
Then what point are you arguing on? If it is strictly performance than it's obvious. It is the 135. It has all the same M suspension components plus coilovers, Trophy big brake, DCT, has more power, so on and so forth. The 1M is a 135 with bigger fenders and M components. There is no magic in the chassis that would block somebody from building the same on their own.

As far as warranty, either pull the pull the JB3 and downpipe when it goes in for work or get a GIAC tune with handheld switcher. Crisis averted, warranty intact. They aren't going to void because you installed an intercooler for lower IATs or a more free flowing exhaust.

As to your last point, I don't see how you don't follow. Customer wants a 1M, goes to dealership, no more available, doesn't want 3 series, wants a car 1 series sized, builds a 135 that is better performing for about the same price. If the verdict of the article was that the 1M is leaps and bounds better than anything that could be built aftermarket, then I would see your point and why you would be confused but this is not the case.

As far as install costs, I do all my own installs so I don't take it into account.


If you want to make this an even more realistic scenario, lets look 3-4 years down the road. 2011 135's have dropped into the mid to high $20's while the 1M has "appreciated" through the roof as everyone thinks they will. By this time the 135 may have between 40-80k miles and it's time to replace worn out suspension components. Instead of replacing a customer can look to upgrade to M components for a little bit more.

I don't know why anyone would sell a car with $20k in mods with them still installed. Part the car out back to stock and recoup 50-75% of the money spent. I also don't think this article takes shipping to AUS into account. I lived down under for a few months and have a few friends down there with modified Audi's and BMW's. The funny thing though, is that Australia has its own dealers and it is STILL cheaper to buy from the US and pay the $400-600 in shipping.

Last edited by bimmer ///man; 12-01-2011 at 01:01 PM.
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      12-01-2011, 12:22 PM   #41
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I don't think the point of this article -for most perspective buyers- is to compare a new 135 with mods to new 1m. Most will take a $20k ish used 135 (or the several year old one they already own) and add $XXk worth of upgrades.

The real dissapointment of the article is how little tire you can get on the back of the 135. All that extra power is unfortunately hugely limited without more tread. Spinning the tires half way into 4th gear is fun but pretty useless.
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      12-01-2011, 12:40 PM   #42
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Of course, when posted in the 1M forum, that all the 1M owners would be butt hurt about the magazine saying the 135i wins.

While I don't agree with all of bimmer ///man's points, I do agree with the fact that the article probably is taken wrong. It is NOT an article about what the resale value will be in 2 years time. It is NOT an article about what if's. It's NOT an article of what would you rather have. It's an article about which of the two cars performs better as they are setup and optioned and priced. They feel the 135i wins, deal with it.

Now presented with a 1M or a highly modified 135i you've gotta be dumb to choose the 135, seriously. 99% of us would take the 1M every time. As mentioned here already, the 1M's are gone. If you don't have one now or aren't willing to pay the abserd premium for one (because you AREN'T getting MRSRP anymore) and you MUST have a 1-series, the modified 135i looks enticing.

Plus, if you take out the cost of a brand new 135i and go used (which are VERY reasonable now) you would come in at a long shot cheaper than a 1M with how high priced they're being asked for...
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      12-01-2011, 12:44 PM   #43
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      12-01-2011, 12:58 PM   #44
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I agree with the comments that many enthusiasts would remove mods prior to selling the car. I've done it. But, many do not as can be evident from many on line ads and what one sees available at some car dealerships.

I was not trying to step on toes with the remarks regarding selling modded cars, but it is factual and has been born out through time enthusiasts do not - in most cases - ever get back the price of mods. The ROUNDEL recently had just such an article about a modded Mini Cooper S, that sold for what a non-modded car would sell for.

The 135 is a great little car - my son, who is a LT in the Navy, is thinking of getting a 2 - 3 year old car so he can modify it just for the reasons stated in the original post in this thread.

Regarding the slant taken by many 1M owners to this thread - it IS a 1M board, so there will probably be a little bias that way, just as there would be on a M3 board if the M3 were compared to a modded 335. But...you can still have fun in all of them!
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