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      01-12-2012, 01:33 AM   #1
ayao
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How are the DIYers jacking up the car?

I want to change fluids more often than specified by BMW, and will probably go the DIY route. Apparently, the way I was raised (oil changes underneath the car supported only by the jack itself) wasn't quite correct.

I've read a handful of 1 series and 1M threads about how to jack up our car properly and found this picture.

Name:  1 series jack points.jpg
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I am hoping some people who do this stuff regularly can point me in the right direction. I'm looking for: 1) specific equipment recommendations (jack, jackstands, ramps?) and 2) procedural suggestions.

It looks to me that you first use a low profile jack underneath the center jacking point to get the front end up and then place jackstands underneath the plastic jack points. The plastic things look like they'd get crushed easily, so I think we're supposed to use jack pad adapters (four of them?). Do normal jackstands with the V-shaped heads work ok or is it preferable to get ones with flat heads?

Once you get the car on front jackstands, then you jack up the rear from the diff??? Looking at undercarriage pictures, I'm not feeling it. Stick a jack on the finned diff cover? The following picture is from a thread on 1addicts back in May.

Name:  1M rear diff under shot.jpg
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If you're successful, how much do the front jackstands (or car) shift as you raise the rear?

Sorry to ask what might be dumb questions. I've scoured various BMW forums as well as google and youtube, and am not finding the info I'm looking for.
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      01-12-2012, 01:44 AM   #2
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I too am interested, as I plan to remove all four wheels for powder coating.
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      01-12-2012, 02:33 AM   #3
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I had my car up on jackstands for some exhaust work.

Front is easy with a low profile jack. I still drive up on two 2 foot 2x8's to raise front end enough to get jack in from front to center jacking point.

The rear is a bit more tricky. The 135 has a frame component that comes much lower than the 1M and I always used that. The 1M frame is much higher and I wasn't able to get the rear high enough to use the same positions on rear jack stands as the front. I was worried about jacking the diff till I saw your picture. You definitely don't want to jack on the aluminum fins though. You can put the jack more forward and actually should be able to get it on the diff itself.

As for the jack points. There are inserts you can buy that fit the rectangular slots and I have one, but rather than buying four. I ended up cutting oak blocks that fit and they work fine on the jack stands with the V.

Hope that helps.
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      01-12-2012, 03:06 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkbr0wn View Post
I had my car up on jackstands for some exhaust work.

Front is easy with a low profile jack. I still drive up on two 2 foot 2x8's to raise front end enough to get jack in from front to center jacking point.

The rear is a bit more tricky. The 135 has a frame component that comes much lower than the 1M and I always used that. The 1M frame is much higher and I wasn't able to get the rear high enough to use the same positions on rear jack stands as the front. I was worried about jacking the diff till I saw your picture. You definitely don't want to jack on the aluminum fins though. You can put the jack more forward and actually should be able to get it on the diff itself.

As for the jack points. There are inserts you can buy that fit the rectangular slots and I have one, but rather than buying four. I ended up cutting oak blocks that fit and they work fine on the jack stands with the V.

Hope that helps.
Ok, I think I get it. Jack up on the diff which is pictured here (the black thing in front of the finned diff cover) and then get the jackstands in that way.

Name:  under1m-5.jpg
Views: 20628
Size:  415.1 KB

I've also read some people who advocate using TWO jacks to get the car up. It's unclear to me the best way to use that technique...
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      01-12-2012, 04:44 AM   #5
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Someone said that we could use the control arms to do the jacking as well? Is there a designated spot for the front to be used for the jack?

Thanks!
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      01-12-2012, 08:05 AM   #6
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I use two jacks and the little metal pucks I got off eBay into the factory plastic lift points. I just do each side with a few pumps and rotate from side to side until the car is at the height I want. I don't have a proper floor jack to lift at one point yet, but I have two smaller ones.
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      01-12-2012, 09:16 AM   #7
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I jack it up my number 2. I would never use the diff, ever. and my car is too low to use number 1. I have to drive up onto wood blocks as it is to get clearance for the lift points.
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      01-12-2012, 10:21 AM   #8
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Don't jack it on the diff! That's an aluminum cover and you will bend or break off the fins.

Jack it from the four rubber pucks on the corners.
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      01-12-2012, 10:49 AM   #9
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The first picture posted shows where exactly to put the jack on the diff..

Another method is to jack up using the front side jack point, the car is stiff enough that the rear side jack point will rise enough to get a jack stand under it. Repeat for the other side of the car. Then jack from the front center point to get the front side points onto stands. You might need some 2x4's under the front tires to be able to reach the center jack point.

I've used both methods and both work fine. Just chock the front wheels if you do jack from the diff. Been using this jack : http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ump-68051.html

As for the jackpads, they will get messed up if you don't use the pucks. A cheap alternative to what's out there is to just use hockey pucks.

There isn't an official point for jacking from the arms but it can be done. I've used it at the end carrier mounting point and at where the shock mounts. Works well enough, just use a towel or something under the arm to prevent scuffing it.
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      01-12-2012, 11:09 AM   #10
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I use the following for the jacks ( i use a low profile and a taller heavy duty style ):

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/BMW_Jack_Pads/ES251251/

and modified hockey pucks for the post stands. You can also purchase replacement jack pads from ECS and others.
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      01-12-2012, 11:48 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snertz View Post
The first picture posted shows where exactly to put the jack on the diff..

Another method is to jack up using the front side jack point, the car is stiff enough that the rear side jack point will rise enough to get a jack stand under it. Repeat for the other side of the car. Then jack from the front center point to get the front side points onto stands. You might need some 2x4's under the front tires to be able to reach the center jack point.

I've used both methods and both work fine. Just chock the front wheels if you do jack from the diff. Been using this jack : http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ump-68051.html

As for the jackpads, they will get messed up if you don't use the pucks. A cheap alternative to what's out there is to just use hockey pucks.

There isn't an official point for jacking from the arms but it can be done. I've used it at the end carrier mounting point and at where the shock mounts. Works well enough, just use a towel or something under the arm to prevent scuffing it.
I've never found a way to get a jack past the diff cover and raise it on the actual diff. If you have a jack that can do that, more power to you!

I've resorted to raising the car via the control arms as well and it'll work, just be careful and make sure the jack isn't going to slide up/down the arm.
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      01-12-2012, 01:21 PM   #12
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Man. Makes me wish I had a rotary lift!
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      01-12-2012, 01:41 PM   #13
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I use a low profile floor jack when I do my own oil changes. The jack I use has a deep "bowl" in teh part that contacts the car body. So I went out and bought a regular old "hockey puck" from a sporting store. Nothing fancy. Just a rubber hockey puck.

I put the hockey in my jack's "bowl" and then lift the front sides of the car at those plastic rectangle pads. I normally just lift my car from the driver's side pad just behind the driver's front wheel. Once the car is high enough in the air... I put some jack stands under the car.

To raise the rear of the car... (like to change the diff oil) I raised the car from the diff housing. I know BMW says not to do that(!) but I too did not see any other way to raise the car - safely. I used a block of wood between my jack pad and diff housing (to spread the lifting load). Having some assorted wood pieces around ones garage helps in these times of need! I suppose you could also lift the car from the metal subframe "knobs" The big black steel cradle where the rear suspension bolts up too. But I was too afraid my jack would slip off at those points.
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      01-12-2012, 02:21 PM   #14
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I bought one of these on craigslist for 900 bucks used twice and it was worth every dollar. Really happy with it.

http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/spe...ifts/P-6B.aspx
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      01-12-2012, 02:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
Man. Makes me wish I had a rotary lift!

You can find a used - lift fairly cheap. A friend of mine bought a "four post" drive on rack for $1,500 INSTALLED! I wanted to be able to do light auotomove work but his real gaol was to park two cars in his garage! one on top of the other!! Normally if you look in the yellow pages under hydraulic oil wholesale suppliers - they often sell used lifts. They will even come to your home and asemble it and install it!

I think a new rotory lift would run about $4K. But I am sure as with anything there are some deals to be had out there.
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      01-12-2012, 02:36 PM   #16
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I installed a BendPak HD-9 over the summer, lift itself was $3000 shipped and it cost $600 to install. I had to modify my garage door opener to a side mount unit and get taller rails which ran another $1300. All in all, its about $5k for a decent brand new 4 post lift.
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      01-12-2012, 02:40 PM   #17
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It really is worth it having your own lift and "work cave" to get lost in. Therapeutic
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      01-12-2012, 03:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZCP M3 View Post
I've never found a way to get a jack past the diff cover and raise it on the actual diff. If you have a jack that can do that, more power to you!

I've resorted to raising the car via the control arms as well and it'll work, just be careful and make sure the jack isn't going to slide up/down the arm.
I do it all the time using a piece of 4 X 6 lumber.

Neil
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      01-12-2012, 04:42 PM   #19
ayao
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I use a low profile floor jack when I do my own oil changes. The jack I use has a deep "bowl" in teh part that contacts the car body. So I went out and bought a regular old "hockey puck" from a sporting store. Nothing fancy. Just a rubber hockey puck.

I put the hockey in my jack's "bowl" and then lift the front sides of the car at those plastic rectangle pads. I normally just lift my car from the driver's side pad just behind the driver's front wheel. Once the car is high enough in the air... I put some jack stands under the car.
Dack- if you use the driver's side jack point to lift the car, How do you get a jackstand in the same location?
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      01-12-2012, 04:46 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
Dack- if you use the driver's side jack point to lift the car, How do you get a jackstand in the same location?

I jack up the car from the jack point just behind the driver's front tire. I then place my jack stands under the control arms for the front suspension.
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      01-12-2012, 04:54 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
It really is worth it having your own lift and "work cave" to get lost in. Therapeutic
+1 - I'm in the process of getting ready to build a new house later this year, can't wait to build my dream garage
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      01-12-2012, 05:15 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVANT123 View Post
+1 - I'm in the process of getting ready to build a new house later this year, can't wait to build my dream garage

IF you are going to install a two post car lift... make sure your garage ceilings are quite high. That is the main problem with home garage lifts. The cieling is too low for most car lifts. Also make sure the concrete floor is thick enough for the rated lift you will be installing(and drilling anchor holes into!).
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