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      01-12-2012, 10:06 AM   #1
JimD
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1M versus M3 stock suspension settings

I searched and it appears the 1M front camber is either the same as the 135 or maybe dialed a little more negative (one posting said about half a degree to a degree and a half negative, I think the half degree would be close to a 135 but a degree and a half would be a lot for a stock 135). I'm wondering how that compares to a stock M3. Anybody know? Can a stock M3 be set more negative than a degree and a half?

It seems like this might be part of the reason for the 1M being slower on larger tracks or it might just be wind resistance and more hp for the M3.

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      01-12-2012, 10:28 AM   #2
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The 1m loses out to the m3 on long straights due to m3 having more hp and better aero. 1m is actually faster than the m3 in the turns. Could it be even quicker in the turns with more camber? Absolutely.
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      01-13-2012, 02:12 PM   #3
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I did some searching and came up with theses facts.

I compared a 1M and an e92 M3 ( both w/18" wheels) (both w/o active steering)

for a 1M these are the Factory specs:

Ride Height (front)...........600mm +40mm or -20mm
Ride Height (Rear)...........592mm +40mm or -20mm

Rear Camber...................-1*45' +0*12' or -0*12'
toe (left or right)..............0*05' +0*03' or -0*03'

Front Camber...................-1*20' +0*12' or -0*12'
toe (left or right)...............0*05' +0*03' or -0*03'
total toe..........................0*10' +0*05' or -0*05'

The only difference for the M3 is the following

front camber is..................-1*10' +0*20' or -0*20'


The above numbers are in Degrees and Minutes *= degrees, ' = minutes

everything else is the same..

what you shoud really compare are power to weight / track / total weight etc etc etc.. this is where the magic is..
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      01-13-2012, 02:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveHard View Post
I did some searching and came up with theses facts...

Thanks Alex. So... the 1M actually has more front negative camber than a M3 does. Hummm...
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      01-13-2012, 07:25 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveHard View Post
I did some searching and came up with theses facts.

I compared a 1M and an e92 M3 ( both w/18" wheels) (both w/o active steering)

for a 1M these are the Factory specs:

Ride Height (front)...........600mm +40mm or -20mm
Ride Height (Rear)...........592mm +40mm or -20mm

Rear Camber...................-1*45' +0*12' or -0*12'
toe (left or right)..............0*05' +0*03' or -0*03'

Front Camber...................-1*20' +0*12' or -0*12'
toe (left or right)...............0*05' +0*03' or -0*03'
total toe..........................0*10' +0*05' or -0*05'

The only difference for the M3 is the following

front camber is..................-1*10' +0*20' or -0*20'


The above numbers are in Degrees and Minutes *= degrees, ' = minutes

everything else is the same..

what you shoud really compare are power to weight / track / total weight etc etc etc.. this is where the magic is..
Sorry, just trying to learn here: how did you search for a 1M with 18" wheels? There are no 1M s with 18" stock like there are also no active steering alternatives, I wonder why you didn't search for 19" for both cars, a bone stock 1M and the M3 w/out active steering or EDC.

Just asking, I am sure you had a technical reason for that choice.
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      01-15-2012, 03:18 PM   #6
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FYI
The baseline alignment on mine as delivered.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf bmw 1m align bl.pdf (531.7 KB, 545 views)
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      01-16-2012, 10:16 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozinaldo View Post
Sorry, just trying to learn here: how did you search for a 1M with 18" wheels? There are no 1M s with 18" stock like there are also no active steering alternatives, I wonder why you didn't search for 19" for both cars, a bone stock 1M and the M3 w/out active steering or EDC.

Just asking, I am sure you had a technical reason for that choice.
It was the only practical choice.. i just typed what was in the screen of the Hunter alignment machine loaded with latest and greates BMW specs.. they even had spec for the active -e
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      04-26-2012, 12:25 PM   #8
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Question.

What is the maximum Chamber of the stock 1M front and rear can take. I am thinking of doing just springs and then matching the setup similar to my M3. More front camber than rear with 0 toe in front an 1/8 in rear.

Thoughts?
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      04-26-2012, 12:38 PM   #9
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Good question. I've got a stock 1M and I'd like to get more negative camber into it. I'm hoping Vorschlag comes up with plates for the stock suspension since I understand that the stock setup is quite limited in terms of range of alignment.

Last edited by Blue55; 07-29-2012 at 07:06 PM.
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      04-26-2012, 01:51 PM   #10
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I know my Z4M buddy uses washers and can get more chamber.

I guess worst case scenario is it is only money to get the answer right? UG HAHA
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      04-26-2012, 02:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m3dragon View Post
Question.

What is the maximum Chamber of the stock 1M front and rear can take. I am thinking of doing just springs and then matching the setup similar to my M3. More front camber than rear with 0 toe in front an 1/8 in rear.

Thoughts?
Per my alignment yesterday I was able to get a max of -1.5 Left, -1.4 right up front stock. If you pull the pins you should be able to get more. If your springs also lower the car you'll get more still.
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      04-26-2012, 03:05 PM   #12
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what about the rear?
If I did that with pins in I would do a 1.4 in front and 1 in the rear with a 0 toe front and 1/8 in rear.
tire wear would be just right
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      04-26-2012, 03:13 PM   #13
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what about the rear?
If I did that with pins in I would do a 1.4 in front and 1 in the rear with a 0 toe front and 1/8 in rear.
tire wear would be just right
Seems too little camber in the rear, stock range on my alignment sheet was listed at -1.6 to -2. No idea if you can adjust to that little rear camber.

What tires are you running? I'm rolling over RS3 street tires up front with -1.5 degrees and would prefer more camber. If you run anything halfway sticky it'd seem like you'll be running too little camber, probably both front and rear?
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      04-26-2012, 03:50 PM   #14
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I have the stock tires currently. In general you want more camber in the front than the rear. Most cases on BMW it is a 1 or .5 split.

Sounds like I need chamber plates to do a 2 and 1.5 split then..
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      12-14-2012, 10:49 AM   #15
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      08-06-2013, 09:27 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlong82 View Post
FYI
The baseline alignment on mine as delivered.
So, anyone looking to return their car back to OEM specs can simply follow these specs? (Did you do this right after getting the car?)

Is there an official BMW spec sheet somewhere that we can all trust? I want to align my car but my shop (which uses a great 3D machine) doesn't have my car listed. I don't want him aligning it as an M3 or a 135i... (At the end of the day an alignment is an alignment, but I'd like to go back to OEM specs)
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      08-07-2013, 01:55 AM   #17
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So, anyone looking to return their car back to OEM specs can simply follow these specs? (Did you do this right after getting the car?)

Is there an official BMW spec sheet somewhere that we can all trust? I want to align my car but my shop (which uses a great 3D machine) doesn't have my car listed. I don't want him aligning it as an M3 or a 135i... (At the end of the day an alignment is an alignment, but I'd like to go back to OEM specs)

Those alignment machines get updates thru out the year(iF they are paying for updates). So I would go back and see IF they have a 1M now listed now. IF not... I'd go to another shop.

You should also be able to ask your local BMW for the alignment specs. I would think someone here would know the answer though.
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      08-07-2013, 08:30 AM   #18
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Thanks Dackel. I checked with him a few days ago and he gave me the brush off: "Oh, we'll just align it as a 135i or an M3, no worries!" and I know I'm being OCD, I'd rather return it to OEM specs while I'm on OEM suspension.

He charges $60 cash vs $230 at the dealer lol. They both use the same machines. At this point I'm almost tempted to pay the difference at the dealer so that I'm not bothered by it.... I'll try giving the dealer a call first though.
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      08-07-2013, 01:35 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -cj- View Post
Thanks Dackel. I checked with him a few days ago and he gave me the brush off: "Oh, we'll just align it as a 135i or an M3, no worries!" and I know I'm being OCD, I'd rather return it to OEM specs while I'm on OEM suspension.

He charges $60 cash vs $230 at the dealer lol. They both use the same machines. At this point I'm almost tempted to pay the difference at the dealer so that I'm not bothered by it.... I'll try giving the dealer a call first though.
Yes, I feel the same way when it comes to MY car.

I would ask around. Maybe even see who all the racers go to in your area. Having an alignment done at a dealer is not a bad idea either. So long as you don't get a Tech who works under the motto... "Set the toe and Let her Go"!!! I have see those guys in action. Tell the tech you want a good alignment and you know(and can feel) the difference. A good shop will even let you sit INSIDE your car - as that will affect how the final alignment numbers come out. Thats when you know you have a good shop doing the job.

Good Luck,
Dackel
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      08-07-2013, 03:04 PM   #20
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If you end up going back to OEM settings, please post it here! (I forgot to have my shop do those measurements before camber plate installation ...)
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      05-07-2014, 06:07 AM   #21
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