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      01-16-2012, 03:41 PM   #1
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18x8.5 Arc 8s, 245/35/18 Kumhos and NO RUB!

I just mounted up my new wheel and tire setup after having burned through enough of my snow tires without any snow here in NY/CT area... Sad because of the lack of snow, but extremely happy that my wheels and tires mounted up!

Many thanks to EFI Logics in Bethel, CT for mounting this beasts up. They carefully mounted them as to prevent any scratching on the surface of the wheel and they did an excellent job for a fair price. 1/4 of the cost of what it cost me to mount and balance tires at the local BMW dealer. They'll be installing my GC street camber plates and aligning the car soon for some serious grip! Check out their website and give Chris a call as they'll be starting to offer custom tuning solutions through the Cobb Accessport soon! Anyone coming from the Subaru world may actually know about these guys already, they rule!

The setup is 245/35/18 Kumho Ecsta XS's (because there are no other tires offered in the extreme performance class in that size) mounted to 18x8.5 +45 Apex Arc 8s. The suspension is stock and so is the alignment and the car gets NO RUB, even under full cornering load. Based on what I have read on these forums I expected to run into some trouble with either the strut tube or the fender and I am pleasantly surprised to say that I ran into neither issue. Anyone that thought it couldn't be done, here is your proof that it can! I will post back after having the GC plates installed and dialing in some negative camber in the front as I may need to get some spacers to make it all work nicely.

Thanks for looking, let me know what you think!
















Last edited by IGoFast1589; 01-16-2012 at 03:56 PM.
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      01-16-2012, 04:01 PM   #2
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Good to hear! I think it really depends on the specific tire though.

Did you decide to run a sqaure setup? Same wheel (offset) front and back? I have almost convinced myself that if I can get 245 up front I'd also run 245 in the rear, that is if the wheels have the same offset. I'd be interested in your thoughts.

Cheers
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      01-16-2012, 04:19 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5teN View Post
Good to hear! I think it really depends on the specific tire though.

Did you decide to run a sqaure setup? Same wheel (offset) front and back? I have almost convinced myself that if I can get 245 up front I'd also run 245 in the rear, that is if the wheels have the same offset. I'd be interested in your thoughts.

Cheers
This looks to be the ARC-8 wheel in 18x8.5" with 45mm offset front and rear. The 245/35/18 setup is perfect for the 1 series, but sadly the best tires in that size are the Kumho XS and the Hoosier A6/R6. It leaves you with little choice.

Nice to see photos of the XS mounted. Thanks for posting pics!
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      01-16-2012, 04:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5teN View Post
Good to hear! I think it really depends on the specific tire though.

Did you decide to run a sqaure setup? Same wheel (offset) front and back? I have almost convinced myself that if I can get 245 up front I'd also run 245 in the rear, that is if the wheels have the same offset. I'd be interested in your thoughts.

Cheers

Yup, I choose the square tire and wheel setup intentionally. It really accomplishes two things at the same time.

1) Reduce understeer with increased front grip
2) Allows for rotating the tires from front the rear or vice versa

It really helped balance the car out from what I have felt so far. The front just bite into turns more nicely and I feel like I can more accurately point the car in the direction I want it to go where beforehand it would just understeer.
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      01-16-2012, 04:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintpro21 View Post
This looks to be the ARC-8 wheel in 18x8.5" with 45mm offset front and rear. The 245/35/18 setup is perfect for the 1 series, but sadly the best tires in that size are the Kumho XS and the Hoosier A6/R6. It leaves you with little choice.

Nice to see photos of the XS mounted. Thanks for posting pics!
No problem, thanks for your previous advice on fitment! I am pleased that they fit perfectly. I have a few millimeters of space between the strut and the tire and that's all it needs.
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      01-16-2012, 07:08 PM   #6
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Cool to know you made it work. I have the +45 offset wheels in front as well, and a 235mm tire (the common cheap Hankook). I really doubt I could fit 245mm in there, but I don't have camber plates and do have different tires.

It's certainly something to consider for next time...
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      01-16-2012, 08:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracer bullet View Post
Cool to know you made it work. I have the +45 offset wheels in front as well, and a 235mm tire (the common cheap Hankook). I really doubt I could fit 245mm in there, but I don't have camber plates and do have different tires.

It's certainly something to consider for next time...
Be prepared to add spacers once you get some nice camber

-2.5* Stock tire and wheel on OEM suspension



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      01-17-2012, 12:32 AM   #8
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Very useful picture! Thanks for sharing. Which Camber plate did you go with?

Last edited by 5teN; 01-17-2012 at 12:32 AM. Reason: added question
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      01-17-2012, 07:55 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracer bullet View Post
Cool to know you made it work. I have the +45 offset wheels in front as well, and a 235mm tire (the common cheap Hankook). I really doubt I could fit 245mm in there, but I don't have camber plates and do have different tires.

It's certainly something to consider for next time...
It depends on how wide the rubber really runs. Based on what I am running now I really think you could fit 255's in the front with a stock alignment and suspension if you were willing to just flatten out the tab on the inside of the fender lip with maybe a little pull. Once I dial in camber though it looks like I may have some strut clearance difficulties to overcome.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubo View Post
Be prepared to add spacers once you get some nice camber

-2.5* Stock tire and wheel on OEM suspension



Perhaps I spoke too soon! That's alright though because I was mentally prepared to have to do some work to get these guys to fit nicely. Do you clear the strut like that?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5teN View Post
Very useful picture! Thanks for sharing. Which Camber plate did you go with?
I decided to go with the GC street plates as I am only looking to get -2 degrees of camber out of the front. Are you in the market for camber plates? So far these seem like a really nice compromise between a full race plate and the fixed position Dinan plates.
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      01-17-2012, 01:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IGoFast1589 View Post
I decided to go with the GC street plates as I am only looking to get -2 degrees of camber out of the front. Are you in the market for camber plates? So far these seem like a really nice compromise between a full race plate and the fixed position Dinan plates.
Yes I need to sort out wheels & tires for the summer and I want to get as big a tire as possible up front and neg camber to get some more front end grip.

How did you choose GC over Vorshlag?
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      01-17-2012, 03:46 PM   #11
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can you go any higher then 2 with the GC plate?

what is the diff. between the GC and Vorshlag?
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      01-17-2012, 04:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5teN View Post
Yes I need to sort out wheels & tires for the summer and I want to get as big a tire as possible up front and neg camber to get some more front end grip.

How did you choose GC over Vorshlag?
I heard that the Vorshlag plates weren't pairing up with the stock springs nicely, I didn't need to larger adjustment range of the Vorshlags and the GC street plates offer quieter operation due to the bearing design versus the hard core design of the Vorshlags. Ultimately, that's why I made my choice.
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      01-17-2012, 05:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IGoFast1589 View Post
I heard that the Vorshlag plates weren't pairing up with the stock springs nicely, I didn't need to larger adjustment range of the Vorshlags and the GC street plates offer quieter operation due to the bearing design versus the hard core design of the Vorshlags. Ultimately, that's why I made my choice.

I had Vorshlags paired with complete OEM suspension. The plates were quiet. There was a bit of squeaking noise introduced next day after rain, but it went away on its own either same day or next.

As for your other question about strut clearance. Whether you will run -1* or -3* the spacing between the wheel and strut stay the same as you are moving the whole strut, and wheel.

I ran 255/40/17 tire on 17 x 8.5 wheel with et40. There was very little space left between tire and strut. Paintpro21 explained in another thread that this clearance is different for 18" wheel application as the wheel itself is narrower than the actual tire. FYI I was running SS.

Here is some best picture I found.

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      01-17-2012, 07:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubo View Post
I had Vorshlags paired with complete OEM suspension. The plates were quiet. There was a bit of squeaking noise introduced next day after rain, but it went away on its own either same day or next.

As for your other question about strut clearance. Whether you will run -1* or -3* the spacing between the wheel and strut stay the same as you are moving the whole strut, and wheel.

I ran 255/40/17 tire on 17 x 8.5 wheel with et40. There was very little space left between tire and strut. Paintpro21 explained in another thread that this clearance is different for 18" wheel application as the wheel itself is narrower than the actual tire. FYI I was running SS.

Here is some best picture I found.

You know, know that I think about it, you may be right. If your tilting in the top of the strut to gain camber that way then, in theory, everything else should move with it.
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      01-18-2012, 03:14 PM   #15
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Wheel/tire to strut tube clearance is not affected by changes in camber. The entire suspension is tilting in. On E36 and E46 models where the suspension is bolted to the hub and not clamped in, it's possible to shim the lower mounting point to add camber. When you do that to those cars you lose clearance between the strut and the tire.

Because the hub mounting point is not parallel to the strut, the larger diameter wheel you install (assuming width and offset remain constant), the more strut tube clearance you will have.

This means a 17x8.5" ET40 has less strut tube clearance than an 18x8.5" ET40 wheel. The difference will only be a few millimeters, but it's noticeable, and has to be accounted for.

There is also a clearance difference between running a 255/35/18 and a 255/40/17. There is an overall tire diameter difference, but more importantly there is a physically difference in shape of the sidewall. The corner of the 17's is more rounded, and that allows for more fender clearance as the suspension articulates. I can't verify if this is true 100% of the time, but it has been with what we've had experience with.
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      01-18-2012, 03:42 PM   #16
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OP...why not run a 245/40 vs a 245/35?
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      01-19-2012, 10:19 AM   #17
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OP...why not run a 245/40 vs a 245/35?
Diameter of the tire is bigger. Introducing additional issue with rubbing against the body and also lower perch of the front strut.
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      01-19-2012, 11:26 AM   #18
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Quote:
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Diameter of the tire is bigger. Introducing additional issue with rubbing against the body and also lower perch of the front strut.
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      01-19-2012, 11:47 AM   #19
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Clearance must be very very tight then if that small additional bit of height will cause rubbing on the lower spring perch....the difference in height is less than 1cm between 2 the two sizes (assuming same tire)
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      01-19-2012, 07:22 PM   #20
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Clearance must be very very tight then if that small additional bit of height will cause rubbing on the lower spring perch....the difference in height is less than 1cm between 2 the two sizes (assuming same tire)

At full lock my tire scraped the inside of the chasis. With even taller sidewall I don't even think you would be able to go to full lock. The clearance between the perch and the tire is small to begin.
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      01-19-2012, 07:41 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Clearance must be very very tight then if that small additional bit of height will cause rubbing on the lower spring perch....the difference in height is less than 1cm between 2 the two sizes (assuming same tire)
It's not about how much taller 245/40/18 is vs 245/35/18, it's about how much taller 245/40/18 is vs. 215/40/18.

Lower spring perch clearance is something that has to be accounted for on all BMW models when running wide tires.
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