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      02-01-2014, 04:40 PM   #1
Ian///M
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Front Brake Rotor and Pad change DIY for 1M or M3(E9x)

Front Brake rotor and pad change on a 1M E82

Tools:
- 8" C-Clamp
- 7mm Hex
- 5mm Hex
- ratchet & extension
- 18mm spanner/ratchet
- 2 x flathead screwdrivers or pry tools
- Rubber mallet
- Bungee cable

Parts:
- Brake pads
- Rotors
- Silicone brake lube (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-1_M...nds/ES2609168/)
- Anti-Seize paste
- Pad wear sensor
- cloths and methylated spirits for cleaning parts

Torques I believe are:
- Caliper Guide Pins: 22 ft-lb (30 Nm)
- Rotor retaining screw: 12 ft-lb (16 Nm)
- Rear carrier retaining bolts: 48 ft-lb (65 Nm)
- Front carrier retaining bolts: 81 ft-lb (110 Nm)
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Process:
  • 1. Remove the wheel

    2. Remove the outer pad clip (part #8). This can be tricky. I just used a screwdriver/pry tool to wedge under the highlighted areas in Fig 1. Lever outwards. Suggest using a cloth between the pry and the caliper to avoid scratching the caliper paint. Fig 2 shows the clip removed.
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    3. Remove the dust caps from the pins (Fig 3). Use the 7mm Hex to removed the 2 caliper pins as in Fig 4. The bottom pin is longer (Fig 5). Pull out the green pad sensor cable (can't re-use normally)
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    4. Now you will need to retract the piston too loosen the caliper. I used a 8" c-clamp. As seen in Fig 6. Suggest using a cloth to protect paint. Make sure you don't position the clamp over the brake hose. Slowly wind the c-clamp until you feel the piston retract. You will notice when as the entire caliper will loosen. (if it will not retract, you can also loosen your brake fluid reservoir cap to reduce pressure)
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    6. Get the bungee cord ready (fig 7). Pull off the caliper and secure on bungee as in Fig 8. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
    Pull out the pads as highlighted in Fig 8
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    7. Remove the carrier. Use a 18mm rachet here to loosen the 2 bolts shown in fig 9. These are done up very tightly and you will need leverage.
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    8. Clean up the areas highlighted in fig 10 and apply some of the silicone grease.
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    9. Remove the rotor. In fig 11, loosen the 2 hex set screws with a 5mm hex. These are known to rust and you can easily strip the hex head. Mine were ok, but rather apply some penetrating oil if they are not moving easily. The rotor may be seized on, so just give it a few taps with a rubber mallet at positions 12, 6, 9, 3. Keep a hand on the rotor while doing this as it is heaving and will fall as soon as it is free.
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    10. It is a good idea to clean off the rust on the hub with a wire brush or sandpaper. I applied anti-seize to the ring shown in fig 13. Don't apply it to the hub face, just the ring. I also cleaned up the set screws in point 9 and applied anti-seize to the thread. It is a good idea to buy some stainless steel set screws from ECS, as they won't rust.Name:  Fig13.jpg
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    11. Reverse the above install by installing the new rotor, then the carrier. The carrier 18mm bolts must be done up really tightly (not sure of the torque). Also apply the silicone lube to the slides (fig 10). If a directional rotor, make sure you have the correct left/right hand rotors selected.

    12. Install the new brake pads. 1st the inner pad (fig 14). Apply some lube to the back of the bad near the clips and to the edge of the cylinder. Then the same with the outer pad fig 15
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    13. Re-fit the caliper to the carrier and make sure it is seated. Re-install the 7mm hex pins (longer one at the bottom as in point 3). You may need to push the caliper forward to get the pins to locate. Put back the pins' dust caps.

    14. Install the wear sensor (only on the left side). Remove the old sensor wire, by un-clipping and trace back to the black box behind the strut (fig 16). Pull out the white connector and unclip. Reverse the process to install the new sensor.
    Insert the sensor into the inner pad (fig 17)
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    15. Re-install the clip for the outer pad (fig 1). This can be a painful process . I found it best to get the middle clip in, then work the bottom clip, then the top clip.

    16. Wipe down the rotors with a cloth and methylated spirits to remove oils and lube.

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That's it, you are done Repeat for the other side.

#### Careful when driving initially as the brake pedal will take a few pumps to get the slave cylinder back in position. Also the pads with new rotors will not be very effective initially.#####
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Last edited by Ian///M; 02-25-2014 at 01:52 AM.
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      02-24-2014, 11:42 PM   #2
Zuzu
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Nice DIY write up Ian..
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      02-25-2014, 12:15 AM   #3
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Agree, great write up.

There's a similar one floating around on M3post as well -- you can wedge a screwdriver into the caliper to retract the piston. Atraumatic and easy.

The only additional suggestion I'd have to make yours the de facto DIY guide would be to add torque specs.
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      02-25-2014, 01:50 AM   #4
Ian///M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
Agree, great write up.

There's a similar one floating around on M3post as well -- you can wedge a screwdriver into the caliper to retract the piston. Atraumatic and easy.

The only additional suggestion I'd have to make yours the de facto DIY guide would be to add torque specs.
If you can find the exact torque specs that would be great. I did as follows based on M3 :
Caliper Guide Pins: 22 ft-lb (30 Nm)
Rotor retaining screw: 12 ft-lb (16 Nm)
Rear carrier retaining bolts: 48 ft-lb (65 Nm)
Front carrier retaining bolts: 81 ft-lb (110 Nm)
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