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      04-05-2012, 05:51 PM   #23
DriveHard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elsabor67 View Post
Drive,

I got both of them finally and will be installing them this weekend. If you don't mind I can upload the pics as I go through the install and finalization. One side took 2 weeks to come in.
FEEL FREE..

the good thing is that if you got them on your side of the pond, then i will be getting mine soon..
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      04-05-2012, 05:55 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by flzrider View Post
armyav8tor, have you tried this on your M3 yet? The 1M backing plates are shared with the M3 but they are different from the non-M 1ers. Has anyone confirmed if a 1M or M3 will accept the F30 plates as easily as the non-M 1ers will?
I havent tried as i havent the need.. But one could ass-u-me that since the f30 is a 3er and the M3 is a 3er and the 1M is based on a 3er then if it fit a 1er with 2 minutes of modification, then it will fit a M3 / 1M with the same changes.. ( or there abouts )

I dont see the physical structure of an F30 spindle being that much different for an M3 / 1M

The backing plates are wide enough to fit a rotor diameter of 370mm +/- maybe 5mm or so.
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      04-07-2012, 07:42 PM   #25
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Temp testing update !!!!!!

well in preparation for an upcoming event, i installed my Front Ferodo 2500 brake pads, and after the bedding in i made some high speed runs and some deep braking to get a feel for the pads.. side note pads feel great...speeds were.... well... we'll just say HIGH..

when i got to a spot where i could stop and pull over i measured a rotor temp difference of approx 40 + degrees cooler on the side with the F30 backing plate. This as compared to the stock shield which i still have on the right side.. The rotor hat was also about 20 degrees cooler..the calipers were equal in temp.

testing note: i wasent really planning on doing this today but it was such a nice day i went to my special brake bedding in / high speed run oceanside highway. i didnt do as much braking as i should have for more conclusive test as i was just bedding them in..

I am hoping that i get the right side plate before friday.. ill take more temps one night this week before i install the right side.

Overall for an OEM looking plate, with no bending or cutting needed, i have now more high hopes that this will be a good fix.

side note: my car has the performance slotted / drilled rotors and the BMW BBK 6 piston brembos. also installed are Ferodo 2500's and RBF 600 fluid, Titanium shields and stock backing plate to stop the pad from rocking and clicking back and forth (amazing they all fit over the rotor, but just barely, i dont know if it would if i had new rotors. the ones i have now have about 12k miles on them)

also i took the chance to inspect very closely my caliper pistons and seals and after 8 full blown track days and a bunch of auto x's they were 100% intact and seem to be operating as designed.

side note: during the coastal high speed run, i caught a bird in my lower grill...
it didnt make it all the way through, but its head and shoulders were wedged in the plastic honeycomb of the grill.. I puked pulling it out and cleaning up..
sorry bird... but at that speed i wasnt going to ball the car up in the sand dunes to avoid you.. Ill light a candle tomorrow...


Thanks for reading !!
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      04-08-2012, 02:09 AM   #26
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What does the plate really accomplish anyway? Just keeps the suspension a bit cleaner? My other cars don't have plates at all.
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      04-08-2012, 04:29 AM   #27
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did you happen to record what the temps actually were? 40deg can be significant, but it also could be rather insignificant depending on what the total temps were.


Quote:
Originally Posted by vantagesc View Post
What does the plate really accomplish anyway? Just keeps the suspension a bit cleaner? My other cars don't have plates at all.
there are two types of plates in common use.
-dust shield (does an adequate job of keeping debris out, at time traps rocks and destroys your rotors)
-cooling shield (similar duty as above + guides fresh air into center of rotor)

the f30's are of the latter kind. some brake cooling solutions employ high temp ducting and bolt into position such that they duct air from the bumper directly into the center of the rotor. cooling achieved by these setups is *immense*, especially when paired with a well-designed vented rotor.
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      04-08-2012, 08:43 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveHard View Post
Temp testing update !!!!!!

well in preparation for an upcoming event, i installed my Front Ferodo 2500 brake pads, and after the bedding in i made some high speed runs and some deep braking to get a feel for the pads.. side note pads feel great...speeds were.... well... we'll just say HIGH..

when i got to a spot where i could stop and pull over i measured a rotor temp difference of approx 40 + degrees cooler on the side with the F30 backing plate. This as compared to the stock shield which i still have on the right side.. The rotor hat was also about 20 degrees cooler..the calipers were equal in temp.

testing note: i wasent really planning on doing this today but it was such a nice day i went to my special brake bedding in / high speed run oceanside highway. i didnt do as much braking as i should have for more conclusive test as i was just bedding them in..

I am hoping that i get the right side plate before friday.. ill take more temps one night this week before i install the right side.

Overall for an OEM looking plate, with no bending or cutting needed, i have now more high hopes that this will be a good fix.

side note: my car has the performance slotted / drilled rotors and the BMW BBK 6 piston brembos. also installed are Ferodo 2500's and RBF 600 fluid, Titanium shields and stock backing plate to stop the pad from rocking and clicking back and forth (amazing they all fit over the rotor, but just barely, i dont know if it would if i had new rotors. the ones i have now have about 12k miles on them)

also i took the chance to inspect very closely my caliper pistons and seals and after 8 full blown track days and a bunch of auto x's they were 100% intact and seem to be operating as designed.

side note: during the coastal high speed run, i caught a bird in my lower grill...
it didnt make it all the way through, but its head and shoulders were wedged in the plastic honeycomb of the grill.. I puked pulling it out and cleaning up..
sorry bird... but at that speed i wasnt going to ball the car up in the sand dunes to avoid you.. Ill light a candle tomorrow...


Thanks for reading !!
Very cool, nice work!

Edit: Sorry, bird!

-Josh
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      04-08-2012, 09:00 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmonet View Post
did you happen to record what the temps actually were? 40deg can be significant, but it also could be rather insignificant depending on what the total temps were.




there are two types of plates in common use.
-dust shield (does an adequate job of keeping debris out, at time traps rocks and destroys your rotors)
-cooling shield (similar duty as above + guides fresh air into center of rotor)

the f30's are of the latter kind. some brake cooling solutions employ high temp ducting and bolt into position such that they duct air from the bumper directly into the center of the rotor. cooling achieved by these setups is *immense*, especially when paired with a well-designed vented rotor.
Good question.. you can take a look at this link of Kori's where we duscussed all of this.. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...ol+brake+plate

as i said in my above results ( this thread) i really wasent prepared to do this and dint plan my stopping areas. the road i use so i can safetly accelerate and stop without being rear ended or without attracting attention has very few pull off areas that arent sand or grassy burms. I had to go for a while befor i pulled over.

the stock plate side had a temp of 290 ish, the side with the F30 plate had a temps of 250 ish .

Temps taken at rotor face about 2 inches from rotor with Infared thermometer.

Like in the attached thread from last year, with planning i can get up to true race speeds and decel as if it was turn 1 at lime rock ... those temps, with a moment or too of coasting and heat soak were in the 500's

My entire F30 backing plate mod is to address weekend warriors that use Daily drivers for their track work. hence something that is simple, clean does not require cutting or removal of the wheel well liner, no noises or scraping, not expensive, and is reversiable etc ...hell it can even go thru a car wash.. These F30 plates act as dust shields, and cooling plates.. i would even say that after the plates get all grimed up, they would not attract attention at the dealer level.

true, real, Race only ducting with hoses etc would be of course many times more efficient and recommend that set up for dedicated track cars.
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      04-08-2012, 09:17 AM   #30
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Alex,
good job. that's a good 20% lower temp. wonder what the difference be when temps are in the 500's. btw what's your front wheel/tire size?
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      04-08-2012, 09:26 AM   #31
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Quote:
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Alex,
good job. that's a good 20% lower temp. wonder what the difference be when temps are in the 500's. btw what's your front wheel/tire size?
thanks..

fronts are 17 x 7.5 et 42 w/ 225/45 Hankooks ( this was yesterday ) The pics at the begining of the thread were my stockers.. 17x7 with 215's goodyear runflats.

if you wondering that the plate wont stick out enough with people with different offsets and wider wheels, id say there would still be plenty of scoop left in the flow of air.

Ill go out tonight again and get some temps if i get back from dinner early enough.. hopefully i wont get a bird again...LOL that freakin thing freaked me out all night.. yukkkkkkk
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      04-08-2012, 09:53 AM   #32
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cool thanks. if you had to guesstimate, how much does the scoop stick out?
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      04-08-2012, 10:06 AM   #33
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Quote:
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cool thanks. if you had to guesstimate, how much does the scoop stick out?
If they don't stick out far enough past your wider wheels to grab the air then you could always bend them back a bit.

-Josh
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      04-08-2012, 10:29 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelblue View Post
cool thanks. if you had to guesstimate, how much does the scoop stick out?
Pix,

I just did mine this friday. I'm going to the 'ring in 2 weeks with some friends and will give my opinions once back. One thing I noticed was the slightly bigger gap the plate has compared to the stock when up close to the hub as pictured below....

Stock



F30



Right now my dd wheels are Bremmer Kraft BR05's 18x8.8" and the edge of the scoop is a couple of milimeters extending out from the back of the rim. For the track I will be using my Stock 18" ///M which are 18x7.5. I honestly think that they will give a better flow onto the disc area.

I do eventually plan on ducting to the disc but am looking at options on running the hoses from alternates locations other than the stock spots from the bumper.
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      04-08-2012, 10:50 AM   #35
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Elsabore thanks! yeah a few mm won't cut it for me. hopefully ducting solution soon
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      04-08-2012, 01:06 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Elsabore thanks! yeah a few mm won't cut it for me. hopefully ducting solution soon
What size of wheels are you using on the track? I do feel though that the slot will be more noticeable once I have the stocks on. I will take a underbody shot with both wheels tomorrow and see the difference.
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      04-08-2012, 01:16 PM   #37
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20%? very nice. In for actual race results if they ever happen. I'm curious where the capacity diminishes and where you need to switch up to full ducts.
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      04-08-2012, 06:19 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelblue View Post
cool thanks. if you had to guesstimate, how much does the scoop stick out?
Quote:
Originally Posted by EFI Logics View Post
If they don't stick out far enough past your wider wheels to grab the air then you could always bend them back a bit.

-Josh
Kori, josh is correct.. there is plenty of room to bend out a little more then where it naturally sits.. I did check though lock-to-lock when bent out and may rub the control arm / thrust arm, but that was at full extension full lock.. so i say there may be more room..

ill take a measurment or pic and post it up later


EDIT !! i just went out and measured..the plate starts narrow at the bottom and gets wider as it gets to the top..its at least an inch at the bottom and shy of 2 inches at the top.. i have pics but cant download from here.. ill do it tomorrow.
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Last edited by DriveHard; 04-08-2012 at 07:08 PM.
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      04-08-2012, 06:21 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elsabor67 View Post
Pix,

I just did mine this friday. I'm going to the 'ring in 2 weeks with some friends and will give my opinions once back. One thing I noticed was the slightly bigger gap the plate has compared to the stock when up close to the hub as pictured below....

Stock



F30



Right now my dd wheels are Bremmer Kraft BR05's 18x8.8" and the edge of the scoop is a couple of milimeters extending out from the back of the rim. For the track I will be using my Stock 18" ///M which are 18x7.5. I honestly think that they will give a better flow onto the disc area.

I do eventually plan on ducting to the disc but am looking at options on running the hoses from alternates locations other than the stock spots from the bumper.
NICE JOB !!!!

Give it a spin and check back with us..

As far as the install went, is it what i said in my instructions? if not let me know and i will edit the thread for others..

regards,

Alex
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      04-08-2012, 06:37 PM   #40
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Quote:
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20%? very nice. In for actual race results if they ever happen. I'm curious where the capacity diminishes and where you need to switch up to full ducts.
Well ill be at the track this weekend 4/14.... so ill have some data then .. I need to record my base line local though.... i cant be switch the plates between sessions.. i just dont have that kinda time.

Ill do what i can as stated before locally..

But you also bring up a good question....... What is too much heat???? or enough cooling ???

Nothing we do with our street cars is going to stop heat build up during hard braking after a long straight, although slowing to 60 ish + for a corner is still 60mph wind but not nearly as much as when we get back up to speed on the straight, as we rely on high air flow to cool the brakes... so all of these mods are "designed" to as quickly funnel air over the brakes / rotor after a hard stop and then a hard acceleration and hopefully another straight.. its the straight that is going to cool off our brakes and make them less hot for the next hard braking corner... also a better constant flow will help lower the effect of heat sinking of the caliper / rotor pads...

so if we know that stock backing plate cars after a few hard stops reach rotor temps in the area of 600 degrees, ( these are street temps, not temps recorded after a 20 minute session) what would signify a decent drop in temp ????

Kori did you ever record temps when back at the pits after a session with your cut plates ??? I dont recall i did ....

Thoughts ????
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      04-08-2012, 07:29 PM   #41
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Alex,
I did measure temps on a few track events last year but I've been lazy ever since. I was seeing temps in the high 500's low 600's in the paddock. I am sure they must have soared to over 1000 braking for turn 1 on summit. I think if you can reduce the temps by at least 100 or better 200 with these mods you're doing good. throw in race pads, titanium shims and super duper brake fluids and hope for the best
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      04-09-2012, 01:16 AM   #42
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Quote:
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NICE JOB !!!!

Give it a spin and check back with us..

As far as the install went, is it what i said in my instructions? if not let me know and i will edit the thread for others..

regards,

Alex
Alex,

Will do. The install was exactly as you describedand can definetly take someone not more than 30-45 minutes total on both sides.

Nick
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      04-09-2012, 01:55 AM   #43
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what does the knuckle look like behind the scoop? would you be able to cut/bend these out even farther, for people running wide wheels/higher offsets?
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      04-09-2012, 07:23 AM   #44
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I think the most disturbing thing about your findings Alex was the fact that while the rotor and hub were cooler...the caliper was still the same temp. That's to me the biggest issue. Keeping that cool so the fluid doesn't boil in there and pads don't fall apart.
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