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      11-14-2014, 11:40 AM   #1
TUN3D
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TUN3D 135i build (1M Conversion) - Battery & Exhaust

Thanks to ilikebmxbikes, Sk8fe, Venom, EINSER M, Mybad135, Tony135, uberschnell, and a few others for answering my questions in regards to this project. Not reinventing the wheel here, just another boring 1M conversion -- haha! Hopefully some of the pics will help the next guy in line -- so lets get to it.

Note: I broke this build into different sections/threads. The page was getting so big that even I had trouble following or finding things at times. This conversion has many phases. I've done my best to group them in a manner which is easy to understand and navigate.

Navigation: Conversion & Parts List
Home Page & Main Build Thread
Front
Rear & Quarters
Battery & Exhaust <

----------------------------------------
In this post you'll find:
• Battery & Exhaust Relocation
• Battery Cable Options
• Scavenge Air Line Mod
----------------------------------------


//////////////////////////////////////////////
Battery & Exhaust List
=========================


Required - Battery Relocation
51718051597 - Multi-Purpose Bucket
61217553951 - Battery AGM 70AH 760A (*1)
61126929715 - Positive Lead
61129217036 - Positive Cable
61127845120 - Negative Cable w/o IBS (Brown) (*2)
61127618679 - Negative Cable w/i IBS (Black) (*2)
12517615476 - IBS Adapter (*3)

Required - Fuel Line Vent Relocation
16137845193 - Low Pressure Fuel Pump Bucket Vent Pipe
16137845194 - Exhaust Steam Pipe with Dust Filter
16137845195 - Gas Filler Vent Pipe

Required - Quad Exhaust Components
18107845402 - Exhaust (*4)
51488051598 - Heat Shield
07147147513 - Heat Shield M6x12 Hex Bolt w/i washer > Qty.7 (*5)
18207798560 - Muffler Rubber Mounts > Qty.3
51128051589 - Rear Bumper Carrier

Optional Parts:
51478052634 - Battery Bucket Foam Insert
71100413439 - Tyre mobility set
16137845196 - Scavenge air line (*6)
=======================

Notes & Updates:
(*1) Technically speaking, this "should" be the proper battery for the 1M (760-CCA). Unfortunately, when ordered, you'll most likely get the wrong part. After two weeks of back-n-forth with the dealer -- I gave up. I went to my local auto-parts store and bought an "AutoCraft Platinum AGM, Group Size H6, 760 CCA" battery. This is the direct replacement (BTW), for all 1M's. The correct length of the battery (to fit properly) needs to be 11".
(*2) If your battery's IBS is connected to the negative terminal, then you'll have to get the "black" more expensive negative battery cable. If your car's IBS is not connected to the negative terminal, then you're in luck and can order the cheaper brown negative battery cable. View pics below.
(*3) You ONLY need this part if you get the black "Negative Battery Cable w/i IBS".
(*4) Same as the diffuser, the Exhaust is around $650+. I would look into an aftermarket upgrade (or perhaps a custom solution).
(*5) You'll run out of these bolts for sure. Order a few extra.
(*6) The scavenge air line is part of the fuel ventilation system. I had an issue locating this thru BMW. It's a special order part (listed in all online & dealer catalogs), however, for whatever reason -- doesn't register at the dealer. In other words, you can't order it. Oddly enough, after alot of searching -- I was able to get it thru ECS Tuning. They added this to their online catalog as a result of my conversation with them. Ultimately it's not required though. It's an easy inexpensive mod. View pics below.



//////////////////////////////////////////////
Battery Cable Options
=========================
Back at the end of August, I posted a request for battery/trunk pics of real 1M owners. I did this after noticing that some of the 1M's had a "brown" negative cable while others had a "black" negative cable. I wasn't sure whether it was a European vs US spec type thing -- or -- whether it was a build date vs recall type of situation.


Here are the two options...

61127845120 > $22.37 (Brown Cable)
61127618679 > $156.70 (Black Cable)

The price difference is significant. But which one is the proper cable? Once I got down to it, I pretty much answered my own question. In the initial post, Dackelone said they were both the "right" parts. This is TRUE, but not really. Yes, they are both negative terminal cables and WILL work. However, there is a reason WHY they are different so you must order the correct part for your car. The deciding factor is where/how the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) is installed.


In this diagram, you see how the 135i battery is wired. In blue, you'll notice how the IBS sensor is connected to the negative terminal. If your 135i's negative battery terminal/cable looks like this -- then you need to order the more expensive replacement > 61127618679. If it doesn't, and you're negative terminal has no other components, then order the less expensive replacement > 61127845120...



//////////////////////////////////////////////
Battery Cable Options - About IBS
=========================
What the hell is the IBS anyways? From what I've gathered, it charges the battery "intelligently" increasing voltage just after start-up and decreasing as time goes on. It cuts supply to certain modules if the battery is low, charges it a little bit more if it's winter, helps conserve battery if its running low, and increases battery life (amongst other things).

Can you drive without it? -- YES. At least I've been able to. I ordered the brown wire initially and haven't had any issues starting up the car and driving -- albeit -- a few miles. Don't know what the long term implications are of not using the IBS, but don't want to find out. I put my order in for the new cable.


Here's another view of the Negative Battery Cable & Adapter For IBS. The adapter is needed if you order this cable...


Here's a view of my battery setup with the "wrong" battery cable for my car. The tire repair kit in this image is from a different car. Cost me $15 on eBay. After buying it, I found a guy in Germany that had a brand new 1M OEM repair kit (with the yellow cap). Once I get that in the next week or two...the battery project will be complete...


Here was my install prior to getting the correct cable...


The devil is in the details. So I was laying back enjoying my work and had the trunk flap up when I noticed that it has specific indentations for the 135i battery and tray position. Would love to change it but, there is no option. I had a 1M owner confirm that they have the same lid. Looks like BMW missed it there...



//////////////////////////////////////////////
Battery Relocation View
=========================

Before Battery Relocation...


After Battery Relocation...


1M heat shield...


Here is a side-by-side of the bumper carrier. Notice how the 1M part has the dual hooks...


//////////////////////////////////////////////
Scavenge Air Line Mod
=========================
The "Scavenge air line" needs to be modified in the event that you can't order the part. All other lines that lead to the canister, once replaced, are a perfect fit. There are two large clips that secure the line to the chassis. I cut the line at the second fitting (closest to the canister), added a 3/8 x 3/8 barbed brass coupling, and attached a section of non-kink flexible line. It's a really curvy weave coming down from the fitting, so you need something really flexible that won't kink. The fitting that goes into the canister can be removed and adapted to the flex-line without any problems...


Here's a good shot of the line...


Here's a good shot of where I modified the line...

//////////////////////////////////////////////
Real Scavenge Air Line
=========================
Install was pretty straight forward. It's an exercise in patients though, as the line has many turns. It goes over the subframe and fuel tank -- which is hardest part. Unbolt the left fuel tank brackets and it drops enough to give you some room to work. After you snap it in place to the clip in this area -- it's home FREE.








//////////////////////////////////////////////
Random Pics
=========================

Battery out...


Tray on...


Tray out...


Funny how simple the trunk really is to take apart...


Another view of the tray out...


Here is a side-by-side of the LPFP vent-line that needs to be changed. The 1M line is shorter...


Here is an inside view of the LPFP vent-line. In order to take change it, you must first disconnect it from the LPFP bucket located underneath the passenger back seat...


Here is an under view of the LPFP vent-line. You need some room to maneuver (about an inch), but you don't need to drop the entire fuel cell. Simply unbolt the passenger side support brackets and it will drop enough to allow the swap...


Here is where the 16137845194 - Exhaust Steam Pipe with Dust Filter & 16137845195 - Gas Filler Vent Pipe are located. Very easy to swap...


Here's another myth I want to debunk. Some guys have said that the charcoal canister wires/connection has to be extended. This is not true. The group of wires/connection which includes the charcoal canister & tire pressure monitor are taped together. Removing the tape allows more play on the wire(s). Everything reaches perfectly. Re-tape the wires and your all set...
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Last edited by TUN3D; 01-27-2015 at 02:59 PM.
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      12-05-2014, 10:53 AM   #2
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Update >

Added some more helpful pics and captions...
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      12-05-2014, 03:28 PM   #3
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This looks to be the most intimidating part of the conversion process to me for some reason.
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      12-05-2014, 03:36 PM   #4
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@Yeineken > No way man -- it's cake. You can knock it out in a few hours. It took me longer obviously because NO ONE had the damn information readily available. I also had issues with the dealer in terms of getting the battery and scavenge air line. Everything else is PnP.
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      12-16-2014, 01:15 PM   #5
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Is the new rear bumper carrier required for the new bumper? Or is it only because of the exhaust?
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2009 135i M Sport 6MT - ER CP - HKS BOV - AFE Intake - Cobb AP - VRSF DP's - Remus Quad Race Exhaust - CF Quad Diffuser - CF Spoiler - 19" Alufelgen CSL's - Hardwired V1 - Laser Interceptor Dual - Black Grilles - 1M Bumper - CF Splitter - Custom Alcantera Flat Bottom Steering Wheel
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      12-16-2014, 01:23 PM   #6
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@MBM6F > Not required to mount the bumper. However, if you're going stock 1M exhaust or 1M aftermarket -- yes. It's mainly for exhaust mounting purposes. The 1M bumper carrier has specific hooks/mounting points for the exhaust.

That said, you can modify the 135i bumper carrier -- just weld/adjust the hooks.

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      01-27-2015, 02:55 PM   #7
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Thanks so much for this great write up! I just ordered everything I need from ECS Tuning today! This will be the starting project of my 1m build. Do you still have the Autocraft Battery? I was thinking of ordering a Braille Battery with the Macht Schnell hold down. Any word of advise for either?
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      01-27-2015, 03:03 PM   #8
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LittleMonster_III > I have the Autocraft battery. Can't vouch for the Braille Battery with or Macht Schnell hold down -- never used either. You don't really need an extra hold down or aftermarket one -- the 135i's is reused. Battery is solid as a rock.

I was never able to get an answer on the OEM battery -- not even from BMW NA. The Autocraft has been working perfectly, so that's what I would go with.

Don't forget to get the battery coded.
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      Yesterday, 10:39 AM   #9
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Update >

Hey guys, engine and trany up for sale -- engine swap coming. If anyone is interested, shoot me a PM.
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      Yesterday, 01:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUN3D View Post
Update >

Hey guys, engine and trany up for sale -- engine swap coming. If anyone is interested, shoot me a PM.
S65 w/ M DCT?
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      Yesterday, 02:28 PM   #11
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Yeineken > Naaaah. Going for a home run -- lol!
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