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      04-10-2012, 10:59 PM   #1
BostonBeemah
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BrakeStand issues

Hey guys

I have been having issues with my car doing a Brakestand. I have tried DTC all the way off holding for 5-10 secs and have tried dropping the clutch and getting on the brake and as soon as I do the tire slip a little bit and ten the car just shuts off.

I have been trying to get more info on this from all different forums and no one else really complains about having this issue. There has been thread started on n54tech with no real solution but I guess people have had some luck with a couple of different solutions which I have tried with no success. Does anyone have this issue and what have you guys done to fix this...

Discussion over at n54tech

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14584
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      04-11-2012, 01:15 AM   #2
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Well the car isn't designed for drag racing. I'm just assuming you want to do a burnout for a better launch? Maybe a line lock would be the best way to go in this case?
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      04-11-2012, 12:55 PM   #3
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Use a little less brake as long as the car doesnt move too much
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      04-11-2012, 01:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmw135er View Post
Well the car isn't designed for drag racing. I'm just assuming you want to do a burnout for a better launch? Maybe a line lock would be the best way to go in this case?
+1 it will save your brakes as well.
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      04-11-2012, 01:42 PM   #5
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Make sure DSC is off if you're trying to do a brake stand. I've tried to do lots of them with just DTC disabled, and no love.

I've also ordered and partially installed AR Designs line lock kit. Good fitment, just need to finish the electrical side of things.
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      04-11-2012, 06:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spitfire007
Use a little less brake as long as the car doesnt move too much
I have tried that it was the only way been able to even get the tires spinning in place.. Otherwise the car just shuts off..
Has anyone heard of disconnecting the brake switch So that the car doesn't think te brakes are applied?? Might try this and get back to you guys.

Also with the line lock, won't I have the same issues if the car is burning the tires but senses that the brakes are being applied and not sensing any motion?
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      04-11-2012, 07:09 PM   #7
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From your info you have an AW drive car, that could be hard to trick.
Most of us have RW drive.
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      04-11-2012, 07:44 PM   #8
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You apply the brakes and lock the pressure into the fronts only. Then you an do a normal launch/burn out with out any pressure on the rears. The fronts will hold the car in place. That way the rear brakes don't interfere with the burn out all. Then you unlock the front brakes and make your runs as normal.
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      04-11-2012, 09:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElChupacabra
From your info you have an AW drive car, that could be hard to trick.
Most of us have RW drive.
My car is a 135i which ONLY come rwd.. I understand how a linelock works but the issue that I think I'm having is that the car sees that the brake is applied when I try to do a burnout and it's shutting the car off. I'm thinking even with the linelock it will still have this issue unless the car Is shutting off bc the rear wheels sense brake+gas overpowering so it shuts off...
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Best stock turbo 12.5 @ 19.46 spinning all the way down
RIP 2008 AW/BL 135i
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      04-11-2012, 09:20 PM   #10
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Ah I see. It may be that the E-LSD feature is what's hurting your burnouts. The line lock should prevent the brake signal input, but the DSC is probably looking at brake pressure and abs more than anything. Try pulling the abs fuses and trying it to see if that works. When you reinstall the fuses it will probably need to see road speed and turn your steering wheel lock to lock to clear all the warning lights. As an FYI
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      04-11-2012, 09:39 PM   #11
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Sometimes you look stupid when you learn something, the white really shows off the 1 series lines, keep it clean because it looks great.
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      04-12-2012, 10:58 AM   #12
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im gonna try pulling out the switch behind my brake and let you guys know how it goes... i just dont understand why no one else has this issue and can do brakestands like this with no problem...
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Best stock turbo 12.5 @ 19.46 spinning all the way down
RIP 2008 AW/BL 135i
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      04-17-2012, 08:36 AM   #13
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No luck guys.. I still don't understand what is going on with these cars and why they don't allow us to do a brakestand. Anyone find any useful info?
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Best stock turbo 12.5 @ 19.46 spinning all the way down
RIP 2008 AW/BL 135i
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      04-18-2012, 12:46 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonBeemah View Post
No luck guys.. I still don't understand what is going on with these cars and why they don't allow us to do a brakestand. Anyone find any useful info?
Make sure DSC is off. DSC must be off for you to be able to do a brakestand. Not just DTC, but DSC. hit it once then hold it until you see DSC OFF.

bring revs up to 3-3.5k side step clutch, give it a little bit of brake.

Viola, Brakestand.
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      04-18-2012, 01:45 AM   #15
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Its possible that you're throwing down too much brake power in the rear wheels. If you keep the rears locked up and THEN floor the throttle it will just bog down even with DSC systems off just because it takes that much more energy to get a locked up object (in this case your rotors) to begin rotation and eventually fully reach its potential rotational capability which in this case is your wheels spinning according to the amount of energy your drive-train is outputting. What I usually do is let the car slowly move forward a little to get that small amount of momentum in the rear rotors then progressively stepping on the throttle and brakes at the same time balancing out the the amount of power put to the rear wheels and all 8 brake pads.

A line lock setup doesn't have anything to do with your DME cutting power. I'm quite sure you know how one works so I'm gonna go ahead and say that I highly doubt the DME would use readings from the front brakes to make its decision on cutting power to the rear wheels. Having said that, the advantage of line locks are that you have the choice of locking up your front or rear brakes without braking both in the process. Really helps make those burnouts easy but it isn't a necessity by any stretch. (for occasional track use atleast)
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      04-19-2012, 12:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JefryHorizon View Post
Its possible that you're throwing down too much brake power in the rear wheels. If you keep the rears locked up and THEN floor the throttle it will just bog down even with DSC systems off just because it takes that much more energy to get a locked up object (in this case your rotors) to begin rotation and eventually fully reach its potential rotational capability which in this case is your wheels spinning according to the amount of energy your drive-train is outputting. What I usually do is let the car slowly move forward a little to get that small amount of momentum in the rear rotors then progressively stepping on the throttle and brakes at the same time balancing out the the amount of power put to the rear wheels and all 8 brake pads.

A line lock setup doesn't have anything to do with your DME cutting power. I'm quite sure you know how one works so I'm gonna go ahead and say that I highly doubt the DME would use readings from the front brakes to make its decision on cutting power to the rear wheels. Having said that, the advantage of line locks are that you have the choice of locking up your front or rear brakes without braking both in the process. Really helps make those burnouts easy but it isn't a necessity by any stretch. (for occasional track use atleast)
Thanks JefryHorizon,

that kind of helped me picture the whole situation a little better. Im gonna try doing a rolling burnout and then slowly add brakes to see how that works.
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Best stock turbo 12.5 @ 19.46 spinning all the way down
RIP 2008 AW/BL 135i
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