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      11-27-2014, 07:51 AM   #1
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Dedicated 1M track car?

Hi, Gents

Looking to pick up a 1M and build a track car(roll cage, 6 point harness, seats..etc). Can anyone point me to the right direction? tried googled, but seems no one built one?
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      11-27-2014, 09:31 AM   #2
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Due to how limited these were, not likely to find someone that would convert one into a stripped out track car. You'd be better off picking up a 135i and converting it with 1M parts, would cost you a lot less in the end.

There was a shop that's done it with a 1M: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=684308

If you do insist on starting with a 1M, it'll use the same parts as a 135i engine and drivetrain wise, and same parts as a M3 suspension and brake wise.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=793184
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      11-27-2014, 09:43 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snertz
Due to how limited these were, not likely to find someone that would convert one into a stripped out track car. You'd be better off picking up a 135i and converting it with 1M parts, would cost you a lot less in the end.

There was a shop that's done it : http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=684308

If you do insist on starting with a 1M, it'll use the same parts as a 135i engine and drivetrain wise, and same parts as a M3 suspension and brake wise.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=793184
Highly recommend this. Save the 1M and destroy a 135i.
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      11-27-2014, 12:03 PM   #4
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i disagree

Do it with a real 1m just use a stolen and recovered car/ auction car that has poor/dodgy history. There is one for sale at the moment and it is 25% cheaper than if it was straight!
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      11-28-2014, 12:31 PM   #5
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Based on what I'm seen researching a 1M buildup from a 135, the 1M rear finders would be the trickiest part since they would require welding to attach the panels and then fill gaps in the wheel well area. Most of the other 1M details look to essentially be bolt-on items.
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      11-28-2014, 07:49 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotth944
Based on what I'm seen researching a 1M buildup from a 135, the 1M rear finders would be the trickiest part since they would require welding to attach the panels and then fill gaps in the wheel well area. Most of the other 1M details look to essentially be bolt-on items.
steering rack, subframes...axles....brakes....suspension...fender s do not make it a 1M. the internal stuff does
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      11-28-2014, 10:45 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by IEDEI View Post
steering rack, subframes...axles....brakes....suspension...fender s do not make it a 1M. the internal stuff does
That's especially true if you wanted the production # to go with it!

Last edited by scotth944; 11-29-2014 at 08:14 AM.
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      11-30-2014, 10:16 AM   #8
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as long as when its your car already, you have 100% full rights on doing what to it.

so i say, go for it man!
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      12-01-2014, 02:10 AM   #9
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thanks for inputs everyone.

how does stock LSD hold up? having come from GT3RS, the rear differential is one weak point for those who frequently track theirs need to rebuild LSD.
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      12-01-2014, 03:14 AM   #10
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My car was a 135i with 1m body work and now is pretty much a dedicated track car. You can turn a 135i into a 1m both cosmetic and functional rather easy but to make it a proper track car you will need to go beyond just replicating a 1m.

The body work is not too difficult. It will cost around 8-10k after paint if you are in southern california.

You can get m3 front suspension, hubs, rear axel, LSD ( 3.15 DCT M3 diff) with all suspension and brakes for around $4k. Then you will want to get a brake kit for the e9x m3 for the car. The 1m prop shaft is another $650.

But to further prepare the car for the track, you need a ton of other much more expensive upgrades. The car runs very hot and needs cooling.

I think a true 1M isnt the best option for a track car or even converted 135i to be honest. I built mine out of passion and dedication to the 1 series but if I didnt have that, I would have been better off buying a medium mileage 08 e92 m3 and building off that platform.
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      12-01-2014, 08:50 AM   #11
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gt3fever > Tricky one.

A 1M is about $55k vs. a 2008 M3 which goes for around $40k. Unless you're supercharging the M3 ($15k), then I would opt for a 2009-2010 135i. The 135i will run you around $20k. Make sure you stick to these years though -- N54 TT engine, plus the LSD's are bolt-on vs the welded 2008's.

You can upgrade the turbos for about $3k and be putting down 500whp conservatively on FBO. Then comes the suspension. Looks wise, you have the benefit of knowing you can do the 1M conversion at any time.

I wouldn't strip down a real 1M and I wouldn't get an M3 unless the goal was to supercharge it. That's just me though -- more bang for your buck.
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      12-01-2014, 10:29 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gt3fever View Post
thanks for inputs everyone.

how does stock LSD hold up? having come from GT3RS, the rear differential is one weak point for those who frequently track theirs need to rebuild LSD.
You're going to want to rebuild it or get a different diff after a couple track days.

The diff is fine, but can't take the abuse long term. As well, there is a delay within the M Variable system from when you start to slip to when you achieve lock.

IMO - If you're doing it right I'd rip it out, or run with it but budget for replacement.
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      12-01-2014, 11:38 AM   #13
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Mine is not (yet) fully track dedicated, but it's moving in that direction!

Info here:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1012992

Neil

EDIT: Since making that post, I've moved to AP Racing Competition brakes at all four corners.

Last edited by MDORPHN; 12-01-2014 at 11:44 AM.
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      12-01-2014, 12:03 PM   #14
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Tuningwerk.de is selling their 1M Safety Car. Its not cheap at ~70K euros. It does have ~650 PS and all the race goodies you could want. Send me a PM if you are interested in it.
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      12-01-2014, 01:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gt3fever
Hi, Gents

Looking to pick up a 1M and build a track car(roll cage, 6 point harness, seats..etc). Can anyone point me to the right direction? tried googled, but seems no one built one?
That's because most BMW owners are still all up in arms because the car is a turbo car and not normally aspirated.

From personal experience owning two limited edition BMWs... I concur with the others.

Why pick a 1m for a dedicated track car over a 135?


Are you keeping the stock seats ?
Are you keeping the stock dash and interior ?

If you are removing these then paying for these unique items isn't needed.


The fender flares and suspension components and room for bigger wheels and tires are the only major items you gain from going with a 1m.. The motor can be tuned to be equal.

The suspension can likely be retrofit. The limited slip M differential is unique to the 1m but for a dedicated track car you likely would want a custom diff some day so why spend more on a 1m diff you will remove ?

essentially i would think one would be better off converting a 135 to be a track car as opposed to spending more to purchase the 1m and making a 1m into a track car


Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikebmxbikes
My car was a 135i with 1m body work and now is pretty much a dedicated track car. You can turn a 135i into a 1m both cosmetic and functional rather easy but to make it a proper track car you will need to go beyond just replicating a 1m.

The body work is not too difficult. It will cost around 8-10k after paint if you are in southern california.

You can get m3 front suspension, hubs, rear axel, LSD ( 3.15 DCT M3 diff) with all suspension and brakes for around $4k. Then you will want to get a brake kit for the e9x m3 for the car. The 1m prop shaft is another $650.

But to further prepare the car for the track, you need a ton of other much more expensive upgrades. The car runs very hot and needs cooling.

I think a true 1M isnt the best option for a track car or even converted 135i to be honest. I built mine out of passion and dedication to the 1 series but if I didnt have that, I would have been better off buying a medium mileage 08 e92 m3 and building off that platform.

hmmm.. good points from ilike... and I had forgotten about getting proper dedicated cooling vs the 135 which doesnt have proper cooling.

The cheapest way to go this route would be to look for a repaired salvage vehicle or one that has been damaged and can be repaired. Overall I agree... one can build similar performance for less starting with a used E9x. if you really love the 1 series looks... then consider starting with a 135... depending on how much and what mods you want to do suspension/wheel/tire wise.
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Last edited by M3 Adjuster; 12-01-2014 at 01:45 PM.
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      12-01-2014, 06:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN View Post
Mine is not (yet) fully track dedicated, but it's moving in that direction!

Info here:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1012992

Neil

EDIT: Since making that post, I've moved to AP Racing Competition brakes at all four corners.
Is this Essex's brake kit?
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      12-01-2014, 06:57 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Adjuster View Post
That's because most BMW owners are still all up in arms because the car is a turbo car and not normally aspirated.

From personal experience owning two limited edition BMWs... I concur with the others.

Why pick a 1m for a dedicated track car over a 135?


Are you keeping the stock seats ?
Are you keeping the stock dash and interior ?

If you are removing these then paying for these unique items isn't needed.


The fender flares and suspension components and room for bigger wheels and tires are the only major items you gain from going with a 1m.. The motor can be tuned to be equal.

The suspension can likely be retrofit. The limited slip M differential is unique to the 1m but for a dedicated track car you likely would want a custom diff some day so why spend more on a 1m diff you will remove ?

essentially i would think one would be better off converting a 135 to be a track car as opposed to spending more to purchase the 1m and making a 1m into a track car

hmmm.. good points from ilike... and I had forgotten about getting proper dedicated cooling vs the 135 which doesnt have proper cooling.

The cheapest way to go this route would be to look for a repaired salvage vehicle or one that has been damaged and can be repaired. Overall I agree... one can build similar performance for less starting with a used E9x. if you really love the 1 series looks... then consider starting with a 135... depending on how much and what mods you want to do suspension/wheel/tire wise.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUN3D View Post
gt3fever > Tricky one.

A 1M is about $55k vs. a 2008 M3 which goes for around $40k. Unless you're supercharging the M3 ($15k), then I would opt for a 2009-2010 135i. The 135i will run you around $20k. Make sure you stick to these years though -- N54 TT engine, plus the LSD's are bolt-on vs the welded 2008's.

You can upgrade the turbos for about $3k and be putting down 500whp conservatively on FBO. Then comes the suspension. Looks wise, you have the benefit of knowing you can do the 1M conversion at any time.

I wouldn't strip down a real 1M and I wouldn't get an M3 unless the goal was to supercharge it. That's just me though -- more bang for your buck.
1m is around 55k
08 m3 is around 35k
135i n54 is around 25k

The $25k 135i +$10k in body work, +$2k for m3 control arms, +1k for bushings and install +$2500 for LSD, + $1200 in cooling, +1200 min for used m3 wheels and tires + $FBO +Labor for all, is going to cost more than an NA m3 and not take the same abuse and you will still inherently run into some cooling issues.

2008 E92 - upgrade brake kit, coilovers, bushings, bbk, full exhaust and tune would be the way to go.
here is an 08 m3 for $33k w/ 50k miles. http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1037750

If you want a dual purpose car and intend to drive the car on the street and or drag it at all, the 135i gains some merit.

Last edited by ilikebmxbikes; 12-01-2014 at 07:57 PM.
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      12-02-2014, 06:34 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUN3D View Post
gt3fever > Tricky one.

A 1M is about $55k vs. a 2008 M3 which goes for around $40k. Unless you're supercharging the M3 ($15k), then I would opt for a 2009-2010 135i. The 135i will run you around $20k. Make sure you stick to these years though -- N54 TT engine, plus the LSD's are bolt-on vs the welded 2008's.

You can upgrade the turbos for about $3k and be putting down 500whp conservatively on FBO. Then comes the suspension. Looks wise, you have the benefit of knowing you can do the 1M conversion at any time.

I wouldn't strip down a real 1M and I wouldn't get an M3 unless the goal was to supercharge it. That's just me though -- more bang for your buck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikebmxbikes View Post
1m is around 55k
08 m3 is around 35k
135i n54 is around 25k

The $25k 135i +$10k in body work, +$2k for m3 control arms, +1k for bushings and install +$2500 for LSD, + $1200 in cooling, +1200 min for used m3 wheels and tires + $FBO +Labor for all, is going to cost more than an NA m3 and not take the same abuse and you will still inherently run into some cooling issues.

2008 E92 - upgrade brake kit, coilovers, bushings, bbk, full exhaust and tune would be the way to go.
here is an 08 m3 for $33k w/ 50k miles. http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1037750

If you want a dual purpose car and intend to drive the car on the street and or drag it at all, the 135i gains some merit.
just checked with local dealers, there are decent amount of e92 m3 for sale on the market now. however, i agree the idea building a track car based on e92 m3 makes more sense, not to mention they are cheaper, faster(stock for stock), and no over heating issue.

I am looking into that option now. thank you.
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      12-02-2014, 01:40 PM   #19
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To be clear -

-there are No over heating issues and HPFP Issues are rare with 1M while both issues do affect the 135.

- 1m and e90m3 stock to stock are pretty much identical lap times around a track with the m3 being easier to drive in the process
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      12-02-2014, 02:20 PM   #20
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M3 Adjuster > On the over heating issue. Is this in part due to the 1M having the PPK2 larger fan and radiator? Or are we talking oil temps here? Also, what are the differences in terms of the HP fuel pumps? Did BMW change something? Different part numbers/models?
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      12-02-2014, 02:25 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Adjuster View Post
To be clear -

-there are No over heating issues and HPFP Issues are rare with 1M while both issues do affect the 135.

- 1m and e90m3 stock to stock are pretty much identical lap times around a track with the m3 being easier to drive in the process
hpfp wouldnt be a concern of mine but heat would be. My friends have limp mode'd their 1m's even in stock form but even without limp mode they experienced considerable heat soak. My n54 would heat soak a lot on the track on hotter days.

Regardless the 1m is a fantastic car but to make a dedicated track car it isnt the ideal choice between the options. Respectfully, the car being a limited release and an appreciating collector car, it would be a shame to tear one down. A 135i after suspension upgrades, cooling, lsd, etc. etc. cost more than an 08 m3. The 08 m3 in NA form is the best bang for the buck for a dedicated build and if fully stripping the car, the owner would get a better return on selling interior parts as the m3 stuff sells for more than the 135i.
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      12-02-2014, 03:26 PM   #22
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ilikebmxbikes > SOLD! Makes sense man -- didn't think of it that way. I tilted my opinion towards the power potential of the n54 vs the NA. On the AutoX, the NA is plenty good I'm assuming. I mean, there's only so much effective power you can really crank out thru the turns, no?
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