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      11-16-2012, 09:27 PM   #1
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Dealer work, catless + tuned

Hey folks,

I'll be getting the 24k service done soon and I was curious what my options are. I have a Cobb AP and a completely catless turbo back exhaust. If I unmarry the AP for the service, I'll get a check engine light. I'm worried about leaving it married to defeat the CEL.

What are my options? Should I get one of those cat delete things that plug into the ECU? Seems like a step price to pay for 1 day out of the year..

Anyone in a similar situation? What did you do?

(BTW I know the CEL doesn't show up right away, but who knows what they do behind closed doors...)
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      11-16-2012, 11:21 PM   #2
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Tough choice. My 135 was written up for all it's mods under similar circumstances. Later they tried to make me pay for my first HPFP replacement blaming my mods (before the recall occurred). I'm now at the end of my "warranty" anyways and nothing came of it.

That's the main issue..the warranty. I guess if a person were really worried about the warranty then they shouldn't get catless downpipes. The only way you can be safe for sure is to remove your aftermarket downpipes.

I guess if I had to do it again then I probably just wouldn't take my car to the dealer at all if it were just routine maintenance. Then if something bigger comes up you can remove your downpipes before taking the car in.
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      11-18-2012, 07:32 AM   #3
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Here's what I would do. Remove Cobb about 1 mile before pulling into the dealership. It will take your car a good 20+ miles before you throw a code for cat issues. When you go ask them if they plan on driving the car. They usually do for oil change. Tell them you expect them to put less than 12 miles on the car (thats what they usually put on mine) and record the mileage with the service advisor. Act like its a big deal and your anal about someone driving your car.

You should be just fine with this strategy. The problem with the BMS O2 simulator is it takes a bit of time to dial in. It may need to be adjusted before the setting is right for your car not to throw a code. That may take you a few days of driving or 100+ miles to play with to get right.
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      11-18-2012, 05:42 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertm View Post
Here's what I would do. Remove Cobb about 1 mile before pulling into the dealership. It will take your car a good 20+ miles before you throw a code for cat issues. When you go ask them if they plan on driving the car. They usually do for oil change. Tell them you expect them to put less than 12 miles on the car (thats what they usually put on mine) and record the mileage with the service advisor. Act like its a big deal and your anal about someone driving your car.

You should be just fine with this strategy. The problem with the BMS O2 simulator is it takes a bit of time to dial in. It may need to be adjusted before the setting is right for your car not to throw a code. That may take you a few days of driving or 100+ miles to play with to get right.
Now that is the kind of advice that makes this forum worth reading!
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      11-18-2012, 05:47 PM   #5
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Why even bother to take your car in? Why not just change or pay for an oil change. Why risk a dealer visit? I would just change the oil myself.
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      11-18-2012, 05:56 PM   #6
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Also, the sims will stop the code but not the smell. If they are picky and notice the smell they might decide to check things out further (go into the ECU and see sims, etc).
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      11-18-2012, 06:41 PM   #7
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Having fitted evolve catless dp's and n55 mid pipes recently - i reckon the exhaust note might give the game away.
My car didnt throw a warning light up for about 80miles after removing the cat's in the down pipe but the exhaust note was there instantly, some dealerships see so few 1m's that they might not know what it should sound like...
i'm so fed up with bmw that once mine has the intercooler and re map fitted aswell il happily take it in for service and warranty work and let them think what they like....

Last edited by octainejunkee; 11-19-2012 at 08:09 PM.
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      11-18-2012, 11:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Why even bother to take your car in? Why not just change or pay for an oil change. Why risk a dealer visit? I would just change the oil myself.
+1
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      11-19-2012, 11:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertm View Post
Here's what I would do. Remove Cobb about 1 mile before pulling into the dealership. It will take your car a good 20+ miles before you throw a code for cat issues. When you go ask them if they plan on driving the car. They usually do for oil change. Tell them you expect them to put less than 12 miles on the car (thats what they usually put on mine) and record the mileage with the service advisor. Act like its a big deal and your anal about someone driving your car.

You should be just fine with this strategy. The problem with the BMS O2 simulator is it takes a bit of time to dial in. It may need to be adjusted before the setting is right for your car not to throw a code. That may take you a few days of driving or 100+ miles to play with to get right.
Great advice. Thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eyeman View Post
Tough choice. My 135 was written up for all it's mods under similar circumstances. Later they tried to make me pay for my first HPFP replacement blaming my mods (before the recall occurred). I'm now at the end of my "warranty" anyways and nothing came of it.

...

I guess if I had to do it again then I probably just wouldn't take my car to the dealer at all if it were just routine maintenance. Then if something bigger comes up you can remove your downpipes before taking the car in.
That's what I'm worried about... I'd like to take advantage of the free oil changes and to go in and build a relationship with the dealership. I'm one of those guys that believes if you give the dealership business / money while building a positive relationship (IE: Try not to be "That" customer), they'll take care of you if something happens... But I've never had to test this theory. In the meantime, I try to make it less obvious that the car is modded...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Why even bother to take your car in? Why not just change or pay for an oil change. Why risk a dealer visit? I would just change the oil myself.
I've been paying for oil changes at 8,000 km at a local shop. But I'd like to pretend I'm following their recommended change intervals and basically do things by the book. Just in case I come to rely on them for warranty....

I'm hoping I can just fine tune one of the BMS devices and if they ask, I'll just tell them "Oh yeah, I got an exhaust..." since they will surely notice the exhaust tone.

Thanks for feedback guys.
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      11-20-2012, 09:03 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertm View Post
Here's what I would do. Remove Cobb about 1 mile before pulling into the dealership. It will take your car a good 20+ miles before you throw a code for cat issues. When you go ask them if they plan on driving the car. They usually do for oil change. Tell them you expect them to put less than 12 miles on the car (thats what they usually put on mine) and record the mileage with the service advisor. Act like its a big deal and your anal about someone driving your car.

You should be just fine with this strategy. The problem with the BMS O2 simulator is it takes a bit of time to dial in. It may need to be adjusted before the setting is right for your car not to throw a code. That may take you a few days of driving or 100+ miles to play with to get right.
Good strategy for avoiding a check engine light, but I don't believe that the car will show "readiness" - routinely checked by dealers -- unless a dp fix is installed.

Neil
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      11-20-2012, 11:39 AM   #11
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I have a Cobb AP on my 09 135i and a DP back exhaust. I unmarried the Cobb but left the exhaust on when I brought my car in for some transmission issues.

They did not say anything about the exhaust, but I did get a nice little note on my service record, "Suspect Vehicle has Aftermarket Software."


I am also pretty sure that the ECU records data for several days, so I would take extreme caution towards the suggestion to unmarry the AP right before the service. If you don't, higher than stock boost, higher revs and other changes would be in the logs of the ECU.

I would uninstall the AP at least a week before the service. I would also remove the DP's and install the stock ones.
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      11-20-2012, 01:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Why even bother to take your car in? Why not just change or pay for an oil change. Why risk a dealer visit? I would just change the oil myself.
+1.

The technicians will know in about 1 second if your car is catless just by starting it up... they have ears and noses and a lot of experience. Just because it doesn't throw a code or a CEL doesn't hide the fact that your car is louder and puts out a gas smell.

That being said, if you are just going for an Oil change and no warranty work is required, they may not care. My dealer was cool with my intercooler, mid pipes and charge pipe for all services before I had to get a low pressure fuel pump sensor changed. The sensor has zero to do with the mods, but he wanted them off before he could do the work.
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      11-20-2012, 02:54 PM   #13
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Be careful if you will leave married/installed COBB and if dealer will update your software. Your COBB flash will be lost you will not be able to restore it.

Just buy BMS DP fix.
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      11-20-2012, 03:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RimasRS View Post
Be careful if you will leave married/installed COBB and if dealer will update your software. Your COBB flash will be lost you will not be able to restore it.

Just buy BMS DP fix.
Of course you'd be able to restore it! You'd still have it on your laptop/computer and on the AccessPort.

Even if you didn't, you'd still be able to download it from Cobb's website.

Neil
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      11-20-2012, 04:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN View Post
Of course you'd be able to restore it! You'd still have it on your laptop/computer and on the AccessPort.

Even if you didn't, you'd still be able to download it from Cobb's website.

Neil
WRONG and if you do not know do not tell that to anybody!

If you install it to your car and car will be flashed/overwritten by dealer to OEM software in that case when you will connect Cobb AP again it will not recognise the car and AP will think that you want to flash other/second car.

You can't flash 2 cars at one time...
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      11-20-2012, 04:55 PM   #16
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WRONG and if you do not know do not tell that to anybody!

If you install it to your car and car will be flashed/overwritten by dealer to OEM software in that case when you will connect Cobb AP again it will not recognise the car and AP will think that you want to flash other/second car.

You can't flash 2 cars at one time...
I'm under impression, possibly wrong, that the Cobb is synch'd to a single car based on the car's VIN...

Neil
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      11-23-2012, 01:11 AM   #17
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I think you're both right. COBB doesn't allow flashing on multiple cars, however I think since the AP knows it's flashed on your car, even if the software is missing, it will allow a reflash / "change tune" to be run. Otherwise Cobb would issue huge warnings about this.

BTW anyone have experience with CP-E's "xCat" Downpipe fix? Same as BMS? It costs $80. Wonder how it works.
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