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      07-31-2017, 11:00 AM   #1
R1wheelieforfun
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2008 135i HPDE prepped, next steps? Looking for community feedback

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Hi All, I've been following 1Addicts for quite sometime but don't post too often, nor have ever really posted my build to the site.

The reason I'm posting today is I'm looking for some feedback (for better or worse) from the community.

I have moved this car to primarily HPDE/Track duty and am definitely hooked on the track. I have about 7 days in this car, and a few more weekends scheduled this year still. I am the second owner of the car, and have been busy for the past couple years building what I hope to be a performance oriented version of this car for the track. I am now at the point where I'm second guessing myself as I'm gaining seat time and track experience would I have a better time (and more sustainable future) in this sport on a different chassis/platform? Toying with the possibility of anything from an e36 to an e92 purpose built track car rather than my e82...

A couple quirks/items about the car before I get into the pics and the mods list. I do not run JB4 on the track. Car performs great on track, no limp issues, cooling issues. I do however get a 30FE code (overboost) at every track event after a few laps at temp. This gives me a half engine light but no reduction in power. I cannot recreate this condition in even hard street driving. I have not been able to successfully diagnose this code on my own. Recent efforts include new WG solenoid valves, ran at Limerock Saturday and still got the code. This I imagine could be related to original turbos (which are starting to rattle now) at 78,500 miles. Turbos hold boost great on Map 5 all day, and car makes fantastic power on the street. So, again back to sustainability; knowing I will need to replace these turbos within the foreseeable future is now the time to move on, or keep investing in maintenance on what I have?

The other hard part here is if I do decide to go in a new direction how do I put a value on what I have here? I'm not interested in parting, and am understanding that what we do here does not add value so accepting a reasonable price for this setup I can live with. I would keep my seats and harnesses to move to whichever new vehicle I end up with. What would you do?!

A few other noteworthy maintenance items:
Minor oil seepage from rear seal near transmission (Wile Motorsport says can be fixed at time of clutch replacement)
Still on original clutch, so not sure how much longer this will last?

Wish list items I want to make this the 'track car' I think it should be:
-ER Widebody kit so I can get a second set of ARC8's in 9.5" and stuff in there.
-Work on custom braking duct kit
-More aero (GT style wing)?
-BBK eventually?
-Need a car trailer now (different conversation)

Ok, so onto build list and pics:

Engine:
JB4
Dual cone intakes
VRSF catless downpipes
Berk Racing midpipes (stock muffler)
Horsepower freaks front mount intercooler
Evolution Racewerks competition dual oil cooler
Evolution Racewerks charge pipe w/Tial BOV
Burger Oil Catch Can

Trans/Driveline:
Burger Motorsports Short shift kit
MFactory 3.46LSD
M rear subframe and diff bushing

Suspension:
Bilstein B12 Pro-kit (Eibach springs/Bilstein Struts)
Eibach front and rear swaybars
All OEM M control arms
Vorschlag Camber plates (set to -3.2*)

Exterior:
Carbon front lip
Carbon rear spoiler
Rear eBay lower valence (plasti-dipped)
Front of car has clear plastic coating on bumper, headlights, front of hood and side mirrors)

Brakes:
Racing Brake front piston upgrade kit including high temp dust boots
Stoptech slotted rotors
PFC08 pads with Hard Brakes Ti shims on fronts
(also, have Stoptech mix use pads front and rear 50% life left, OEM rotors flat and good)
Stainless braided lines

Wheels:
OEM staggered style 264 (plasti-dipped black) with Bridgestone RE71rs 245 front 265 rear (not much life left)
Apex ARC8 square setup 18x8.5 ET45 with Bridgestone RE71rs 245 square (one track day at Limerock on them)
Apex wheel studs

Interior:
BRacing bolt in half cage
OMP HTE-R seats
VAC hardware
Schroth PROFI-6 Harnesses
Turner aluminum race pedals
Interior semi-stripped neat and clean (I have all original interior still)
M-Performance flat bottom alcantera steering wheel

Recent Maintenance:
Replaced AC condenser line/recharged system
Waterpump/Tstat/coolant
Oil filter housing gasket replaced
All fluids up to date

Old maintenance:
HPFP replaced under warranty

Thanks for looking and please provide any/all feedback. Hope you enjoy!
































































Last edited by R1wheelieforfun; 07-31-2017 at 11:43 AM.
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      07-31-2017, 12:33 PM   #2
R1wheelieforfun
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Originally Posted by Get Inline View Post
one last thing, can you comment on the bilstein b12 kit you have? I am considering to purchase these for my f10 528i.

also, what camber plates are you using/would recommend? ones that do not bring in any extra NVH in particular. Dinan perhaps?

do you have any sway bars installed?

Thank you so much for the feedback and comments. My local track enthusiast/weekend racer indy shop set my alignment for the front in/at -3.2. I found it was extremely helpful in the understeer issue as well as saved my front tires from being destroyed in 1 weekend at the track. I went with Vorschlag camber plates which seem of incredible quality.

The B12 kit has been worry free thus far. I'd probably move to a fully adjustable coilover should I keep this car for the longterm on track duty just to get more to dial in.

If I do move to a 9.5" ARC8 square setup I am hoping to graduate to a full R comp tire or even a set of slicks. The RE71r has been great for me so far though.

I have no idea on the overboost issue, seems to be a mystery to most folks when I really take a deep dive on Google/forums trying to learn more about it.

As for the exhaust, yes it is the full Berk kit (I used to run the track exhaust, was too loud) so I kept the entire mid-section in and just put my rear muffler back on.

And again, talking about a 'new direction' I mean moving into a proper 'M' car dedicated to the track? Really the heart of my question is, is the e82 a sustainable platform and should I keep going down the rabbit hole, or now that I'm really getting into this hobby should I be looking at a different platform/chassis? I suppose they all have their ups and downs, but just looking for input.

Thanks!
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      07-31-2017, 12:56 PM   #3
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As far as sustainability, as long as you keep your oil and coolant temps in check you will not really have any issues. It's hard to kill these panzer tank motors if they're well taken care of and not over heated (they are an open deck head after all).

You are probably having some kind of heat related issue with the WG flappers or actuators on the turbos. Maybe try running the car on JB4 base cal (I think map 4?) and logging what boost you're hitting when you get that activation. If you're running 8 psi stock map, it really is a low risk situation IMO.

I'd say keep going with it dude!
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      07-31-2017, 12:56 PM   #4
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As far as sustainability, as long as you keep your oil and coolant temps in check you will not really have any issues. It's hard to kill these panzer tank motors if they're well taken care of and not over heated (they are an open deck head after all).

You are probably having some kind of heat related issue with the WG flappers or actuators on the turbos. Maybe try running the car on JB4 base cal (I think map 4?) and logging what boost you're hitting when you get that activation. If you're running 8 psi stock map, it really is a low risk situation IMO.

I'd say keep going with it dude!
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      07-31-2017, 02:21 PM   #5
The Wind Breezes
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Ditch the JB4 even if it's for the street and get a good flash tune, but really, the main issue is...

Don't run a harness with only a roll bar OR without a HANS. You're gonna paralyze yourself if you roll the car and the A pillar caves in, or get a nice skull fracture and die like Earnhardt if you have even a minor front collision. Dude, what are you thinking? Stock safety gear would be a lot safer than this. Your "safety" equipment made the car less safe and for no appreciable benefit.

Again, you need a FULL cage and a HANS if you want to safely roll with that harness. If you're trying to keep from getting thrown around look up the "seatbelt trick" and just lock yourself in with the stock belt.
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      07-31-2017, 03:35 PM   #6
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I would not count on the clutch having considerable life ahead of it with the amount of power you run at the street (though I don't think track work is particularly taxing on it?). It is pretty routine for tuned N54s to begin slipping the clutch at your mileage.

I think the narrowbody's limit for wheel/tire fitment is where the line is drawn- though that is a disadvantage that can be ignored in the interim. So you can either cut into the rear quarters and not look back, or sell at that point.

Have you looked at switching to MHD for the sake of improving the cooling system? The ramped up water pump tables allowed my car to run much colder. ~15f colder peak oil temps on stock OC and radiator.

What shift knob is that? The jaffster does not fit onto my b&m ssk, so I am fewer on options
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      07-31-2017, 03:57 PM   #7
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Awesome build! As far as sticking with the 135 or moving to another platform, I'll echo what other have said: You've addressed most of the issues that this car has in stock form, so if you enjoy driving it I'd say continue down the path you're on. Swapping to 17" wheels can save you some money on tires, and good brake ducting will help keep your calipers alive and yield more even pad wear.

The only reason I can see to switch platforms is if you're interested in wheel-to-wheel racing. In that case, there's not many places to race a car like yours, so moving on to a spec-miata, spec-e30, etc. would be a better choice.

Of course, another reason to switch would be if you're no longer enjoying the way your car drives. What things do you like and dislike about driving your car? Maybe outlining those things will help you make a decision, and allow others to chime in on what it might take to fix the things you don't like.
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      07-31-2017, 04:56 PM   #8
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So in my opinion this chassis does what most modern BMWs do well... They are a fantastic car for use as a mixed street/track setup. You can go pretty darn quick, have a good amount of fun, drive home in comfort and then take the wife/kids out the next day.

So IMO if you plan to keep the car as a car that has part duty as a street car, then I would say continue to build what you akready have. You already have quite a nice setup, so I would work on mostly getting it reliable under hard track use. P.S. I may help you with a brake duct kit if you are looking for something cleaner.

Alternatively if you are looking for a pure track toy, I think you would probably be suited better with something else. You mentioned a E36. A built E36 track car probably makes more sense than trying to do the same with a E82. Not saying it can't be done, but just that it makes more sense to have a nice stripped down naturally aspirated S5x powered E36 than a turbo'd heavy complex N5x powered E82.

EDIT: ... And yes as others said, if you are looking to get into competition then don't bother with the 135i... just not competitive.

Last edited by WhatsADSM; 07-31-2017 at 07:11 PM.
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      07-31-2017, 05:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Wind Breezes View Post
Ditch the JB4 even if it's for the street and get a good flash tune, but really, the main issue is...

Don't run a harness with only a roll bar OR without a HANS. You're gonna paralyze yourself if you roll the car and the A pillar caves in, or get a nice skull fracture and die like Earnhardt if you have even a minor front collision. Dude, what are you thinking? Stock safety gear would be a lot safer than this. Your "safety" equipment made the car less safe and for no appreciable benefit.

Again, you need a FULL cage and a HANS if you want to safely roll with that harness. If you're trying to keep from getting thrown around look up the "seatbelt trick" and just lock yourself in with the stock belt.
HANS is now around $700. With the $$ the OP spent, a HANS probably isnt a big deal.

Why is the car less safe with a rear roll bar than without it?
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      07-31-2017, 06:43 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by BimmerAg View Post
Awesome build! As far as sticking with the 135 or moving to another platform, I'll echo what other have said: You've addressed most of the issues that this car has in stock form, so if you enjoy driving it I'd say continue down the path you're on. Swapping to 17" wheels can save you some money on tires, and good brake ducting will help keep your calipers alive and yield more even pad wear.

The only reason I can see to switch platforms is if you're interested in wheel-to-wheel racing. In that case, there's not many places to race a car like yours, so moving on to a spec-miata, spec-e30, etc. would be a better choice.

Of course, another reason to switch would be if you're no longer enjoying the way your car drives. What things do you like and dislike about driving your car? Maybe outlining those things will help you make a decision, and allow others to chime in on what it might take to fix the things you don't like.
I agree with BimmerAG, if you want a regular track day machine you pretty much have all you can get in the 135i, unless you want to go nuts and do a 1M conversion. If you want to do some type of racing pick a popular platform in your area i.e. miata, spec-e30 or race NASANE in a built e36 or e46 and race ST1 or ST2 I think its called. Sadly the 135i is not that competitive compared to the e36 or e46. At the end of the day its really up to you and what you want to do. I am super jealz of the oil cooler setup a+.
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      07-31-2017, 08:50 PM   #11
R1wheelieforfun
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Thanks all for the feedback, and info. I am certainly no where near a level where wheel to wheel racing is an option, affordable, or a skill I have. I definitely enjoy driving the car immensely both on and off the race track, so I see the plus there for sure.

Regarding the safety concerns, I can't speak much to the roll bar vs. full cage scenario but I do run with a HANS on track and really don't drive the car more than once a week on the street.

Definitely planning that I'll be looking at a turbo replacement and by the sounds of it a new clutch sooner than later.

Also this has been helpful to shift me towards looking at a proper tune or by the sounds of it I need to research MHD a bit as well.
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      08-01-2017, 08:24 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommm View Post
HANS is now around $700. With the $$ the OP spent, a HANS probably isnt a big deal.

Why is the car less safe with a rear roll bar than without it?
I just explained this...was it not clear? Anyway to reiterate, it's less safe with a bar and harness. Reason being he won't move like with a stock belt if the A pillar caves in during a roll over and he can be paralyzed. The driver could have just the roll bar but I'm not sure there would be much reason.

The harness has issues too without the HANS, your body can't move like with a stock belt so your head will whip forward, may not be sufficiently arrested by or even contact the airbag, and you get what's called a basilar skull fracture, which is what kill Earnhardt cuz they didn't use a HANS in nascar back then.

Basically, just run stock safety systems unless you're willing to go all out. You can lock the seat belt sufficiently tight for track driving using the seatbelt trick.
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      08-01-2017, 10:24 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Get Inline View Post
OP, defintely take a look into an MHD. it physically reflashes your ECU which is far more effective then jb4, which basically tricks your ECU into making more power, and makes the car assume you are in a ready steady when you have catless downpipes. it is not physically tuning or reflashing anything.

have you considered fabricating or making a custom vented hood? will help extract underhood temps while improving radiator flow. a must for these cars as they run very hot.

what sort of oil are you running?
That is great info, I need to just take the time to properly wrap my head around MHD and how I can get it and load it to my car. I'm def open to trying it out. First glance looks like I need a basic android device and an OBD style cable to connect to my car. Seems easy enough, I'll read up on it this weekend.

The items on my list include a makeshift brake duct setup, but haven't given much thought to hood venting. Perhaps once I venture down the slope of widebody front end I could do a CF or FRP style vented hood. I'd mangle my stock hood if I tried to cut it myself I'm sure of that

I currently run BMW factory 5w-30 'twinpower turbo' oil. I try to change about every other track event (3-4 days per oil change, with mixed street driving between) which I hear may be more frequent than I really need to...

Thanks again!
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      08-01-2017, 12:33 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Wind Breezes View Post
I just explained this...was it not clear? Anyway to reiterate, it's less safe with a bar and harness. Reason being he won't move like with a stock belt if the A pillar caves in during a roll over and he can be paralyzed. The driver could have just the roll bar but I'm not sure there would be much reason.

The harness has issues too without the HANS, your body can't move like with a stock belt so your head will whip forward, may not be sufficiently arrested by or even contact the airbag, and you get what's called a basilar skull fracture, which is what kill Earnhardt cuz they didn't use a HANS in nascar back then.

Basically, just run stock safety systems unless you're willing to go all out. You can lock the seat belt sufficiently tight for track driving using the seatbelt trick.
So if one rolls over in a three point one's head may hit the roof and snap one's neck. If one rolls over in a five point, one would in theory be hanging upside down.

Now you throw in the A pillar collapsing. If there were no roll bar wouldn't the whole roof collapse, instead just the A pillar collapses leaving something like a triangle with the driver at the apex versus a pancake with the driver the pancake?

I don't agree with your argument. I think that in most track situations, just twisting a three point belt (the seatbelt trick) will give less protection than a proper five point belt with anti submarine straps, etc.. However, to support your point of all or nothing I think the BMW driving school got rid of helmets. Their theory is the helmets interfere with the side curtains, etc. Now if I could only convince PCA, BMWCCA, and the track to let me run without a helmet.

I would be more concerned with a minor rear end accident on the street with the racing seats. The headrest is made for a helmet to fit between the driver and the seat which is plenty of room for whiplash in a low speed accident.
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      08-01-2017, 06:21 PM   #15
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Maybe I missed it, (Tommmmmm tells me I have reading comprehension issues) but is there anything you want that the car isn't doing? What is your ultimate goal? I too visit Lime Rock via SCDA roughly 4-5 times per year, both with my old Evo's and with my 135i, and what I learned is that there is always someone who's faster, and I enjoy the experience for what it is. My Evos were mildly modified, my 135i is stock save for non runflat tires and a PPK. I go, get my "yayas" out, go home. That's the extent I want to be involved, so it works for me. If you want to compete on a professional level, the 135i probably isn't the best choice. Get yourself a spec miata for like $15k or so and go nuts.
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