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      07-02-2012, 05:48 PM   #67
ozinaldo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
Opinions differ but it's best to bleed the clutch to ensure all the air is out of the lines. Mike Miller of Roundel Tech Talk agrees with this when I asked him ("I would never remove a CDV without at least bleeding the clutch slave cylinder.")

This is because removing the CDV per se will introduce some amount of air into the system. If you replace the CDV with a modded one, or just hook the lines back up together without a CDV at all, some amount of air will get introduced.

The Motiv pressure bleeder is what allows you to do it by yourself versus needing two people to bleed (one person in the car pumping the clutch as another person is underneath opening the bleed valve.)

You can use the stock CDV and pop out the restrictor, you can buy the one from BMS, you can send a stocker to Zeckhausen to exchange for a modded one, I think they're all equivalent.

I know people who are using both a clutch stop and a CDV delete together. They do different things, so it's no problem. The CDV mod just makes the car shift 1-2 the way a normal car is supposed to, without the clunky and annoying delayed engagement. I found the difference not night-and-day, but noticeable and preferable. The clutch stop just changes the overall amount of travel in the pedal for a sportier feel, I guess.

Hope this helps?
Very much, thanks.
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      07-02-2012, 06:02 PM   #68
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I almost believed the old posts about not needing to bleed the clutch.

I did this mod yesterday and bled the clutch. It took longer, but I am glad I did it.

I use a clear plastic tube to collect the fluid into a sealed bag, mainly to prevent a mess. It also lets me see what has come out of the system. I had fluid, then 4 inches of air, a little more fluid, then 2 inches of air, then fluid. The tube has a similar internal diameter to the clutch line. That is a lot of air. Also, the shape of the hard line into the slave cylinder would almost guarantee that some of the air would rise into the slave cylinder.
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      07-02-2012, 06:36 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarJunkie View Post
...Also, the shape of the hard line into the slave cylinder would almost guarantee that some of the air would rise into the slave cylinder.
Yea... that steel hydraulic line isn't quite straight! Lots of twists and turns for air to get trapped up in there. When I did my CDV delete... I even rebled teh system a week later... bc I was not 100% sure I got all the air out of the system. So I thought it would be safer to re-bleed it. I slept better after that!




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      07-02-2012, 07:04 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Yea... that steel hydraulic line isn't quite straight! Lots of twists and turns for air to get trapped up in there. When I did my CDV delete... I even rebled teh system a week later... bc I was not 100% sure I got all the air out of the system. So I thought it would be safer to re-bleed it. I slept better after that!
Did you rebleed because of impaired clutch feel, or because you're The Dackel?
Did you get any additional air out?
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      07-02-2012, 07:10 PM   #71
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ok? My garage, just pulled off & quickly slipped on the new CDV. No bleeding etc.
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      07-02-2012, 09:34 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
Yes. They were very accommodating and got me in/out quick. I did ask them explicitly to bleed the clutch, though.
thanks, SonicMS got back to me and I'll be getting it done on Monday, including bleeding the clutch.
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      07-02-2012, 09:40 PM   #73
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can someone confirm the part number for the OEM CDV in the 1M? 21526764872
I'm going to buy one and tap out the restrictor.

Last edited by yemski; 07-02-2012 at 09:47 PM.
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      07-02-2012, 09:59 PM   #74
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what for, just tap out the OEM one, then if you want to go back to stock do that. At least thats my recommendation.
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      07-02-2012, 10:22 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
Did you rebleed because of impaired clutch feel, or because you're The Dackel?
Did you get any additional air out?
Yea... bc I was being a Dackel (OCD)...
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      07-02-2012, 11:15 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yemski View Post
can someone confirm the part number for the OEM CDV in the 1M? 21526764872
I'm going to buy one and tap out the restrictor.
That's the part number I have written down.
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      07-03-2012, 01:08 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao
Quote:
Originally Posted by yemski View Post
can someone confirm the part number for the OEM CDV in the 1M? 21526764872
I'm going to buy one and tap out the restrictor.
That's the part number I have written down.
Thanks!
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      07-24-2012, 09:03 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papethova View Post
Jack the car up, remove the plastic panel (approx 6-8 screws)....
Anyone knows part # for the C-clip nut holding that plastic panel covering transmission part/CDV, etc? one of the clamps fell apart once I took down the panel.

n/m, found it, looks like it's this...

03 C-clip nut, self-locking ST 4.8 -ZNS3 15 07147154447 $0.27




-Z-

Last edited by -Z-; 07-24-2012 at 09:52 AM.
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      02-18-2013, 10:09 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Yea... bc I was being a Dackel (OCD)...
I just sent you a PM on this.
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      02-18-2013, 10:48 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozinaldo View Post
I just sent you a PM on this.
Got it. I just sent you one back! lol

Basically... I re-bled my CDV twice when doing the install. Then a week later I bled it again. Its very hard to get all the air out of the clutch system.


Dack
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      02-19-2013, 07:23 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Got it. I just sent you one back! lol

Basically... I re-bled my CDV twice when doing the install. Then a week later I bled it again. Its very hard to get all the air out of the clutch system.


Dack
Did it. Took my time to get all the air out from the system as well. Thanks God, my mechanic is even more OCD than me, love the guy!

First did the brakes cause I wanted to flush all old brake fluid and fill it with new stuff (Super Blue DOT4), it was time do that anyway, the car is getting close to 2 years old (from day of production). So we sucked the old fluid as much as possible, put the pressure bleader and new fluid, bled the brakes and when finished with them, installed the modified CDV and bled the clutch. All in all we needed just a liter of brake fluid, I was expecting 2! I am sure that we bled all four brakes as well as clutch pretty text book way and saw the new "blue" fluid bleeding, still just 1 liter.

Both brakes and clutch seemed totally fine on the way back home.

1-2 shifts as well 2-1 or neutral to 1 progressed neatly but I can't call it night and day since I was always quite satisfied with the stock too. This little mod cures the vague/blurred feeling and lack of control which used to happen in lower gears especially when cold and in slow driving. Gear changing and clutch feeling reminds me my first BMW now ('97 318 ti) and I say it as a compliment since that car's gearbox and clutch were simply perfect; light, sweet and very neutral which mostly disappeared from newer BMWs later on.
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      02-19-2013, 08:01 PM   #82
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Egads! Not again!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaptorKTM View Post
no your not going to loose much, and you dont have to swap to motul, you can just get the OEM product which is very inexpensive.
I just don't get it. Seems every one of these 'cdv' threads turns into the same silly exchange about 'do I have to bleed my system if I (pinch my line/do it quick/submerge the whole car in brake fluid)?'

It's really simple. If the brake fluid is exposed to air (other than at the filler) then the lines need to be bled. In cars such as ours (and especially yours, over here in the M forum) why would you want to compromise your safety by taking even the slightest chance?

It's a closed pressurized system and it needs to be closed and pressurized when you're done.

Why the fuss about it?

Rant Over
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