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      07-13-2012, 03:50 PM   #1
miula
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All of a sudden the acceleration got jumpy. If I go WOT the power delivery is not linear anymore but choppy instead; almost feels like when the rev. limiter kicks in but it starts around 3k up to about 4.5k rpm regardless of gear or road speed. Even more strange is it only happens WOT, if instead I slowly accelerate all the way to 6.5k rpm it feels fine... Doesn't happen when parked and revved up either...

The charge-pipe seems to be properly attached to the throttle body and no CEL so far... I wonder if the CP maybe cracked somewhere or even worse something happened to the tranny/clutch/diff...

Any ideas what could be wrong??? Going in for service Monday morning anyway... I am terrified!!!
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      07-13-2012, 03:51 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miula View Post
All of a sudden the acceleration got jumpy. If I go WOT the power delivery is not linear anymore but choppy instead; almost feels like when the rev. limiter kicks in but it starts around 3k up to about 4.5k rpm regardless of gear or road speed. Even more strange is it only happens WOT, if instead I slowly accelerate all the way to 6.5k rpm it feels fine... Doesn't happen when parked and revved up either...

The charge-pipe seems to be properly attached to the throttle body and no CEL so far... I wonder if
The CP maybe cracked somewhere or even worse something happened to the tranny/clutch/diff...

Any ideas what could be wrong??? Going in for service Monday morning anyway... I am terrified!!!
Sounds to me that it may be a slipping clutch.

Neil
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      07-13-2012, 03:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN

Sounds to me that it may be a slipping clutch.

Neil
I really hope not... Only 4k miles on the clock and I have really babied the car. Haven't burnt a clutch in 15+ years either but I guess it's possible...
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      07-13-2012, 03:57 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miula View Post
I really hope not... Only 4k miles on the clock and I have really babied the car. Haven't burnt a clutch in 15+ years either but I guess it's possible...
Does seem unlikely, but it would be consistent with the problem only occuring under hard acceleration.

Neil
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      07-13-2012, 04:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miula View Post
I really hope not... Only 4k miles on the clock and I have really babied the car. Haven't burnt a clutch in 15+ years either but I guess it's possible...
Try rolling on the highway in 3rd and punching it, if rpm goes flying without speed increase it is your clutch. Otherwise it would be something else.
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      07-13-2012, 04:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rapter
Try rolling on the highway in 3rd and punching it, if rpm goes flying without speed increase it is your clutch. Otherwise it would be something else.
I tried that already and the speed does increase pretty dramatically but it feels weird, it's really choppy instead of linear which is why I figured it could be a cracked charge pipe or even worse a clutch that is starting to fail...

I wonder if it's possible to have a HPFP failure without the long cranks...
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      07-13-2012, 04:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miula View Post
I tried that already and the speed does increase pretty dramatically but it feels weird, it's really choppy instead of linear which is why I figured it could be a cracked charge pipe or even worse a clutch that is starting to fail...

I wonder if it's possible to have a HPFP failure without the long cranks...
Clutch....it is then
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      07-13-2012, 05:18 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by rapter View Post
Clutch....it is then
I still hope it's something easy to fix but I'll know soon... The only reason I am doubting the clutch is that other than WOT it drives perfectly, no difficulty engaging gears or reverse, starts and stops just like before... I am confused

Would the clutch be covered under warranty or am I going to get stuck with a huge bill for it???
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      07-13-2012, 05:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miula View Post
I tried that already and the speed does increase pretty dramatically but it feels weird, it's really choppy instead of linear which is why I figured it could be a cracked charge pipe or even worse a clutch that is starting to fail...

I wonder if it's possible to have a HPFP failure without the long cranks...

If your speed increases dramatically, it probably isn't your clutch... Unless you meant engine speed? Look at the RPM gauge next time. Does it shoot up while the car fails to accelerate? If so, clutch... If not, it's something else.

Could be HPFP failure, could be tune.... Are you tuned? Could also be spark plugs, if the computer is pulling timing you'll accelerate in waves (Depending on how much timing is being pulled).
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      07-13-2012, 06:22 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -cj- View Post
If your speed increases dramatically, it probably isn't your clutch... Unless you meant engine speed? Look at the RPM gauge next time. Does it shoot up while the car fails to accelerate? If so, clutch... If not, it's something else.

Could be HPFP failure, could be tune.... Are you tuned? Could also be spark plugs, if the computer is pulling timing you'll accelerate in waves (Depending on how much timing is being pulled).
Revs don't shoot up, the tach needle actually dips ever so slightly when the car looses power momentarily... The choppy non-linear WOT acceleration feels the same as when the rev. limiter kicks in but at lower rpm and it only does it (the gaps if you will) two or three times on the way up the range... at 5500 - 6000 rpm it's still smooth, linear and very fast, engine speed def. matches road speed... When the acceleration drops, the rpm and road speed drop as well, as if the boost was bouncing around...

No tune, pretty much stock other than full exhaust, stock DP as well...

That's why I was wondering if there is a boost leak in the form of a crack or a loose hose that only pops on WOT or if its possible/common to have a HPFP failure without experiencing long cranks... Didn't think about the spark plugs which would make sense, but why would they malfunction at 4k miles???
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      07-13-2012, 06:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miula View Post
..Didn't think about the spark plugs which would make sense, but why would they malfunction at 4k miles???

New cars often get started and stopped MANY times before even being sold. It is quite common for a new car to get one or two sets of plugs BEFORE the owner takes delivery. All those short starts/stops take a toll on the plugs.

When I worked for a VW dealer way back when... VW did not believe its dealers when they were replacing so many spark plugs on low mileage cars (~30 miles on average).

So... VW put these analog counters(up under the dash - to be rmoved durrng PDI or the first service) wired to the engine. Every time you started the engine it recorded the start. When the PDI tech took these counters off... many times they were in the 300 to 400 range of start/stops. That was when VW shut up and approved new spark plugs when we told them a car needed them.

And Btw... often times too... these low mileage cars also needed a battery... bc they were always being moved and never charged by driving the car!

So... OP it is quite possible your car need plugs. Its the first thing you should check. Also check the coil pack cables where they snap down. You could have a loose one. Go look at the Cobb video on my Replacing Spark Plug DIY.

Dack.
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      07-13-2012, 06:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
New cars often get started and stopped MANY times before even being sold. It is quite common for a new car to get one or two sets of plugs BEFORE the owner takes delivery. All those short starts/stops take a toll on the plugs.

When I worked for a VW dealer way back when... VW did not believe its dealers when they were replacing so many spark plugs on low mileage cars (~30 miles on average).

So... VW put these analog counters(up under the dash - to be rmoved durrng PDI or the first service) wired to the engine. Every time you started the engine it recorded the start. When the PDI tech took these counters off... many times they were in the 300 to 400 range of start/stops. That was when VW shut up and approved new spark plugs when we told them a car needed them.

And Btw... often times too... these low mileage cars also needed a battery... bc they were always being moved and never charged by driving the car!

So... OP it is quite possible your car need plugs. Its the first thing you should check. Also check the coil pack cables where they snap down. You could have a loose one. Go look at the Cobb video on my Replacing Spark Plug DIY.

Dack.
Gonna check right now!!! Thanx for the info Dackel...

UPDATE: Oops, just realized I don't have all the tools to check the spark plugs... I'll wait until Monday and let the stealer take care of it... I hope it's just the spark plugs since it should be a simple fix, a lot easier than a clutch/flywheel...

Last edited by miula; 07-13-2012 at 07:06 PM.
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      07-13-2012, 07:26 PM   #13
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Small question: did you install a so-called "clutch stop" in your 1M (small device allowing you not to push the clutch to maximum position: see http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602966 - http://www.clutchstopper.com/index.html - http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...E:L:OC:US:1123) ?

If you got a clutch stop, or you have the driving habit not to push the clutch till its maximum position, and the clutch has to be replaced, then that's highly likely the cause.

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      07-13-2012, 08:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artemis View Post
Small question: did you install a so-called "clutch stop" in your 1M (small device allowing you not to push the clutch to maximum position: see http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602966 - http://www.clutchstopper.com/index.html - http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...E:L:OC:US:1123) ?

If you got a clutch stop, or you have the driving habit not to push the clutch till its maximum position, and the clutch has to be replaced, then that's highly likely the cause.

Attachment 720602
Attachment 720604
I actually purchased a clutch stop and never installed it because I was worried it might cause damage if the clutch is not fully depressed...
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      07-13-2012, 09:30 PM   #15
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HPFP or bad gas?
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      07-13-2012, 09:40 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuned1M View Post
HPFP or bad gas?
Didn't think about the possibility of bad gas... The symptoms don't match 100% because in neutral it accelerates fine, but I did pump gas in a new place the day I before I noticed the problem for the first time...

I'll try pumping some fresh gas and see what happens...
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      07-14-2012, 07:13 AM   #17
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I would check the coils and the plugs. I had a bad tank of gas once and had problems at idle but it did not last as long as it has for you. I am assuming you have put a bunch of miles on trying to figure this out. What is your hesitation of simply brining it to the dealer? Act dumb, say you dont know what the deal is and tell them it better be covered under warranty
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      07-14-2012, 07:32 AM   #18
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Other question: ever had a (very) bad gear shift (unhealthy rattling/grinding noise and shuddering gear shift lever, because the gear shift lever was not correctly shifted in the right gear) ?

Honestly, it's quite unlikely that you managed to break one or more "teeth" of the wheel(s), but never say never when the 1M is shifted at hard pace. Although wheel "teeth" are strong, not properly matching wheels should be avoided.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastauto View Post
Simply bring it to the dealer. Act dumb, say you don't know what the deal is and tell them it better be covered under warranty
+1. Good piece of advice.
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      07-14-2012, 08:18 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastauto View Post
I would check the coils and the plugs. I had a bad tank of gas once and had problems at idle but it did not last as long as it has for you. I am assuming you have put a bunch of miles on trying to figure this out. What is your hesitation of simply brining it to the dealer? Act dumb, say you dont know what the deal is and tell them it better be covered under warranty
I am not hesitant to take it to the dealer, it's scheduled to go in Monday morning... It's just nice to have an idea of what could be wrong...

I am going to dump the possibly "bad" gas and pump some fresh one since I am still close to half a tank of it... The worst that could happen is it costs me a few extra dollars to throw away gas that was ok...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Artemis View Post
Other question: ever had a (very) bad gear shift (unhealthy rattling/grinding noise and shuddering gear shift lever, because the gear shift lever was not correctly shifted in the right gear) ?
Not that I can recall...
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      07-14-2012, 08:57 AM   #20
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DCT?
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      07-14-2012, 09:11 AM   #21
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DCT?
What?

Oh, I get it. Haha.
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      07-14-2012, 09:43 AM   #22
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My vote is a bad tank of gas. Run you tank out and fill at your local Chevron or other Top Tier station.

Turbo engines will use up every bit of Octane they can get, the anti Knock censers will kick in to reduce timing and power to protect from engine Detonation. This is most likely what you are feeling.
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