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      01-23-2015, 09:27 PM   #1
brusk
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Looking for Alignment Spec recommendations

I'm trying to make sure my car gets aligned properly to match my driving. Unfortunately this requires a little back story. I added M3 rear subframe bushings 6K miles ago along with the front M3 Control Arms. Took it to Cobb Tuning in Plano and afterward it would pull to the right at WOT and pull to the left when letting off the throttle. Recommendations where to replace the rear tow link and camber link. I did with Rogue and M3 parts.


2nd Alignment felt better and I didn't notice any issues until increasing power from OTS 2+ to an E40 blend then it was controllable but very lively at WOT. Fast forward about a year and 6K miles later the car was starting to be uncontrollable at WOT on the highway constantly veering right then left and repeating every time I would slowly correct it. It would look like you were purposely swerving from line to line in your lane. I decided to check all my rear suspension bolts for tightness and noticed the very inside rear tires are showing metal with only 10K miles on them. I've bought new rear tires, ECS rear trailing arms and M3 rear upper control arms. Now the only stock part in the rear is the lower control arm.




Mods in signature. What specs should I give the alignment shop this time. I drive mostly highway (highway pulls) and some mild aggressive back road driving so I was thinking less Camber and medium on the Toe. Also the fronts are wearing a little more on the outside than the inside so I think I can go more camber in the front.
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2008 135i - Cobb/JB4, Spec 3+ Clutch/Flywheel, MS DP's, Berk street exhaust, AMS IC, UI CAI, CDV delete, Quaife LSD, M3 control arms/Links, RE Toe Link, ECS Trailing Arm, M3 rear SF & Trans bushings, SS brake lines, Michelin PSS.
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      01-24-2015, 12:27 AM   #2
Pig Farmer
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The tire wear in the picture is likely the result of the -toe (i.e. toe out) on the right rear wheel, and to a lesser extent the -camber. The -toe in the rear and essentially zero toe in the front explains the unpredictable feeling on the highway. Since you're looking for a little more stability, I'd shoot for 10 degrees of +toe on each rear wheel (20 degrees total +toe) and five degrees of +toe on each of the front wheels. You should try to max out the negative front camber, but I find you can actually reduce the negative camber in the rear and still have plenty of grip... -1.4 degrees of rear camber is plenty for the street, and can actually result in a more balanced car.
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      01-24-2015, 12:34 AM   #3
brusk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pig Farmer View Post
The tire wear in the picture is likely the result of the -toe (i.e. toe out) on the right rear wheel, and to a lesser extent the -camber. The -toe in the rear and essentially zero toe in the front explains the unpredictable feeling on the highway. Since you're looking for a little more stability, I'd shoot for 10 degrees of +toe on each rear wheel (20 degrees total +toe) and five degrees of +toe on each of the front wheels. You should try to max out the negative front camber, but I find you can actually reduce the negative camber in the rear and still have plenty of grip... -1.4 degrees of rear camber is plenty for the street, and can actually result in a more balanced car.
Cool good to know. Also both rears wore exactly the same this way.
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2008 135i - Cobb/JB4, Spec 3+ Clutch/Flywheel, MS DP's, Berk street exhaust, AMS IC, UI CAI, CDV delete, Quaife LSD, M3 control arms/Links, RE Toe Link, ECS Trailing Arm, M3 rear SF & Trans bushings, SS brake lines, Michelin PSS.
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