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      01-16-2013, 10:20 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
WOW. Even worse than the Honda MTF that I was used to working with. I wonder of its worth changing the diff fluid as well. That will be a PITA with no drain hole.
Not too much of a challenge, you just need a fluid extractor...or upgrade to a custom finned diff cover w/ a drain plug. American engineering 1, German 0

http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-...e93-p2493.aspx
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      01-23-2013, 02:31 PM   #24
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I just had my 2008 135i 6 speed man transmission and diff oil changed with the proper Red Line products. Now it feels more clunky when it's cold (14F today) and I'm hearing a wirring noise. Did I just trash my car?
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      01-23-2013, 02:54 PM   #25
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whirring or whining? How does the pitch of the sound change with gear speed? Is it clunky even after the transmission warms up? (and clunky where btw).
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      01-24-2013, 04:12 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eviled View Post
I just had my 2008 135i 6 speed man transmission and diff oil changed with the proper Red Line products. Now it feels more clunky when it's cold (14F today) and I'm hearing a wirring noise. Did I just trash my car?

What fluids specs did you use?

What do you mean by "proper" Red Line products!?
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      02-03-2013, 09:10 PM   #27
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Dackelone, just for clarification on the manual trans fluid 6 speed. How much fluid do i need to put in after draining? Since i dont have a lift in my garage, i only lifted the front end by 14 inches and left the rear end on the ground just enough room for me to drain the fluid then as i was filling them up, it appears that i can put as much as 2 quarts but then again i recalled my conversation with Bavarian autosport, they told me that i should only use a little over a quart. So what is the right amount. In fact, i only put about a little over 1.25 quart and the car seems driving perfect. Please let me know if its necessary to fill add more.

thanks
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      03-20-2013, 11:01 PM   #28
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Sorry, it took me a while to reply. I have been busy and I only drive 7 miles to work. It has been getting warmer here but I heard the noise this morning, and always when it's cold. It sounds like a window is open a bit, and corresponds with rpm but with a kind of random up and down tone, but if I'm paranoid, it sounds like a spun Bering. the noise goes away when the engine temps come up. The shifter feels fine, great actually. I don't recall the numbers, but I used the recommended redline oils for a manual trans. Also, my valve ticking seems to have quieted today with the warmer oat. I think I am going to replace the oil again with the standard BMW stuff and watch them this time.
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      03-20-2013, 11:09 PM   #29
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Sorry, not rpm, but with wheel speed.
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      03-21-2013, 04:42 AM   #30
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I am keen to replace my 6mt fluid soon, I recall in the past when reading a diy it stated you shouldn't really re-use the drain plugs.

What's the consensus on this and does anyone have the part #'s? (I have never replaced them on previous cars)
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      03-21-2013, 04:56 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My135i View Post
Dackelone, just for clarification on the manual trans fluid 6 speed. How much fluid do i need to put in after draining? Since i dont have a lift in my garage, i only lifted the front end by 14 inches and left the rear end on the ground just enough room for me to drain the fluid then as i was filling them up, it appears that i can put as much as 2 quarts but then again i recalled my conversation with Bavarian autosport, they told me that i should only use a little over a quart. So what is the right amount. In fact, i only put about a little over 1.25 quart and the car seems driving perfect. Please let me know if its necessary to fill add more.

thanks

You MUST have the car LEVEL when changing the transmission fluid. N55's hold just over a liter of fluid while N54's hold just over 2L's. BMW spec's MTF-LT-3 for the 135i.

Which Redline fluid did you use in your trans?

I have been using Redline ATF-D4 in my manual trans - and it works just fine. ATF-D6 can also be used. D6 is a slightly thinner fluid than D4.

When you drain your old trans fluid out... yopu keep adding new fresh fluid in the fill hole UNTIL it starts to spill out of the fill hole. THIS is why your car must be level with the ground. Perhaps your trans is low on fluid ?

For the diff.... you need a fluid extractor to "suck out" the old thick diff oil. It holds about 1.2 Liters. BMW spec's Castrol SAF-XJ (or XO)fully synthetic 75w140 GL5 diff oil. I use the SAF-XJ bc it is also good for BMW M lsd's while also ok for bmw open diff's like on our cars.


See my post #70...

DIY: manual transmission and diff fluid change
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...+change&page=4




Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
I am keen to replace my 6mt fluid soon, I recall in the past when reading a diy it stated you shouldn't really re-use the drain plugs.

What's the consensus on this and does anyone have the part #'s? (I have never replaced them on previous cars)
I re-used my old drain plugs. I did buy new ones, but I did not feel I needed to use a new one. Btw... these plugs weren't cheap! ~$20 each from what I remember.

Most important thing to do when changing trans fluid is open the FILL HOLE FIRST. The last thing you want to do is drain all the old fluid out and then realize you can not open the fill hole plug!!


Btw... here is what my old manual trans fluid looked like...
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=722492
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      03-21-2013, 05:49 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
You MUST have the car LEVEL when changing the transmission fluid. N55's hold just over a liter of fluid while N54's hold just over 2L's. BMW spec's MTF-LT-3 for the 135i.

Which Redline fluid did you use in your trans?

I have been using Redline ATF-D4 in my manual trans - and it works just fine. ATF-D6 can also be used. D6 is a slightly thinner fluid than D4.

When you drain your old trans fluid out... yopu keep adding new fresh fluid in the fill hole UNTIL it starts to spill out of the fill hole. THIS is why your car must be level with the ground. Perhaps your trans is low on fluid ?

For the diff.... you need a fluid extractor to "suck out" the old thick diff oil. It holds about 1.2 Liters. BMW spec's Castrol SAF-XJ (or XO)fully synthetic 75w140 GL5 diff oil. I use the SAF-XJ bc it is also good for BMW M lsd's while also ok for bmw open diff's like on our cars.


See my post #70...

DIY: manual transmission and diff fluid change
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...+change&page=4






I re-used my old drain plugs. I did buy new ones, but I did not feel I needed to use a new one. Btw... these plugs weren't cheap! ~$20 each from what I remember.

Most important thing to do when changing trans fluid is open the FILL HOLE FIRST. The last thing you want to do is drain all the old fluid out and then realize you can not open the fill hole plug!!


Btw... here is what my old manual trans fluid looked like...
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=722492
Thanks for your advice and help, I thought replacing the plugs was overkill but having said that I havent removed them before to look at them and i didnt want to have the tranny fluid drained then realise i have to buy new plugs and give my local bmw dealer the opportunity to rip me a new one....
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      03-21-2013, 07:02 AM   #33
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OK, read through the entire thread.... What is the actual BMW spec for the 6MT trans fluid? I will have a 135i N55 6MT. Here at Honda we use Castrol MaxLife ATF fluid in our automatic trannies. A full synthetic. Meets BMW specs LT71141, LA2634 and M-1375.4.

Edit: Nevermind, have not had my coffee yet.....

Quote:
Factory fill is MTF-LT-3. Then it went to MTF-LT-4. It might even be now LT-5 like the 1M and N55's use.

Last edited by MightyMouseTech; 03-21-2013 at 07:09 AM.
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      03-21-2013, 08:35 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
OK, read through the entire thread.... What is the actual BMW spec for the 6MT trans fluid? I will have a 135i N55 6MT. Here at Honda we use Castrol MaxLife ATF fluid in our automatic trannies. A full synthetic. Meets BMW specs LT71141, LA2634 and M-1375.4.

Edit: Nevermind, have not had my coffee yet.....
Quote:
Factory fill is MTF-LT-3. Then it went to MTF-LT-4. It might even be now LT-5 like the 1M and N55's use.
^^Yup, MTF-LT-3 is what BMW calls for for a N54. For a N55 trans MTF-LT-5 is called for. There is a decal on the trans or a color'd sticker that tells you which fluid the trans needs.


Btw... just curious about Honda AT's... do you guys actually change the trans fluid at service intervals? 30K or 60K miles? I guess Honda doesn't believe in lifetime fluids like BMW's BS marketing.
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      03-22-2013, 07:23 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
^^Yup, MTF-LT-3 is what BMW calls for for a N54. For a N55 trans MTF-LT-5 is called for. There is a decal on the trans or a color'd sticker that tells you which fluid the trans needs.


Btw... just curious about Honda AT's... do you guys actually change the trans fluid at service intervals? 30K or 60K miles? I guess Honda doesn't believe in lifetime fluids like BMW's BS marketing.
Ya, we still change the trans fluid. The new cars have a maintenance minder that looks at driving style and conditions and computes the maintenance schedule. Most cars see the tranny flush recommendation at around 80-120 k, the SUVs' are around every 40-60 k (km's). Although, we are only doing a drain and fill, so it only replaces 3L of the 12L in there at a time.

I don't believe in lifetime fluids either. My smart fortwo was supposed to have lifetime fluid in the tranny. The first time I changed it at 48k, it came out black like engine oil. I typically change the oil every 5k on my own cars, and all the other fluids (trans, diff, coolant, brake) once a year in the spring.
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      03-22-2013, 10:48 PM   #36
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To add some info on... here's the MTF-LT-3 fluid on getbmw parts:
http://www.getbmwparts.com/partlocat...catalogid=4462 for $140 / 5L

This is probably just over twice what you need. I think you'll use less than 2.5L for a drain and fill, and this is 5L. I'm not positive though - have not done this myself yet. But I got quoted $32 for .5L, so this 5L will save a good amount of money and cost nothing extra for the second 2.5L of fluid. I was quoted $160-180 (can't remember) for 5L at a parts department. You could probably also sell the extra 2.5L here.

The parts dept. person told me there will be a sticker with the fluid necessary on the bottom of the transmission somewhere, so you can check there. If you call them with your VIN #, they can also look it up for you. This is for my 08 135i convertible, so check for your newer models accordingly.

I believe I need an 8mm hex wrench for both plugs, and a 10mm socket to remove the plastic cover to get to the transmission.
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      03-23-2013, 08:14 AM   #37
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Quote:
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I believe I need an 8mm hex wrench for both plugs, and a 10mm socket to remove the plastic cover to get to the transmission.
Yup, +1 on the 5L jug. Enough for two trans oil changes.

Also you are correct on the 8mm allen/hex. I used a study 1/4 drive one, but for the top side (fill) plug I had to use one of the L-shaped allen's bc there was not enough clearance between the trans and tunnel for my 1/4 ratchet. SO have some tools on hand.

Also for the Diff... you will need a 14mm hex and a fluid evacuator to suck out the old gear fluid.
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      03-23-2013, 08:21 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eviled View Post
Sorry, it took me a while to reply. I have been busy and I only drive 7 miles to work. It has been getting warmer here but I heard the noise this morning, and always when it's cold. It sounds like a window is open a bit, and corresponds with rpm but with a kind of random up and down tone, but if I'm paranoid, it sounds like a spun Bering. the noise goes away when the engine temps come up. The shifter feels fine, great actually. I don't recall the numbers, but I used the recommended redline oils for a manual trans. Also, my valve ticking seems to have quieted today with the warmer oat. I think I am going to replace the oil again with the standard BMW stuff and watch them this time.

I forgot to post this a few days ago... Normally when the you have a bad gear or transmission... you will get gear noise only at part throttle. IF you apply power it will go away. Because the gear's bearings are under load. When there is little power - like cruising - that is when you will hear a noisey (worn out) trans.

Also... gear noise from the diff... is different in that it is speed dependent. You will also only hear it while cruising at a steady speed. Apply some power and the noise will generally go away. Until the internal wear becomes so great it will just make noise ALL the time.


IF you suspect your trans is screwed up. The best thing would be to drain the trans fluid and inspect the old fluid for metallic bits. Feel it with your fingers for any grit. You could also send a sample out for analisis.

The best way to make sure your trans has the proper fluid level is to change it and keep filling the fill hole until fluid spills out of the fill hole. NOTE: your car must be on level ground too!
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      03-23-2013, 11:29 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Yup, +1 on the 5L jug. Enough for two trans oil changes.

Also you are correct on the 8mm allen/hex. I used a study 1/4 drive one, but for the top side (fill) plug I had to use one of the L-shaped allen's bc there was not enough clearance between the trans and tunnel for my 1/4 ratchet. SO have some tools on hand.

Also for the Diff... you will need a 14mm hex and a fluid evacuator to suck out the old gear fluid.
I'll add that I was able to find L shaped allen/hex at Harbor Freight with a handle for added torque (haven't opened yet), and same for the fluid evacuator, which was on sale for $5 and worked fantastically on brake fluid today.
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      08-14-2014, 05:38 PM   #40
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While you guys are contemplating your manual transmission fluid replacement, you should also consider a magnetic drain plugs. I change my fluid about every 2 months as I track my car. My cue is when I start to hunt for the the shifts at the track because they become notchier. Every time, I find a very fine dusting of metallic dust on the tip of the magnet when I drain the fluid.

I went with the Dimple magnetic engine oil and transmission oil drain plugs. drainplugmagnets.com A little bit pricey but they are quality parts. A couple of spare O rings are bundled with the plugs too.

Ive been using Redline D4 ATF fluid for the last two fluid repalcements, but tried Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc ATF this time. I did this last night, and shifts are noticeably smoother again, even with the 2 months old Redline D4 fluid getting replaced.

My conclusion is that the Redline D4 fluid loses its properties pretty quickly when abused at the track. I track my car almost every week.
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