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      09-02-2012, 11:04 PM   #1
MA128
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Talking Clutch Shudder - Surprise Resolution

I've seen a few references to this on other threads but nothing definitive. The car has 58,000 miles and I occasionally get a shudder or chatter at low revs taking off from a stop. Seems a little worse after the engine/transmission warm up. It also is getting worse as the miles accumulate.

[edit 9/30/12 at 58,000 miles]
I had thought, naturally enough, that the problem was with the clutch or flywheel. This will seem crazy but the problem has been solved - by installing the M3 rear subframe bushings! I had my suspension upgraded this week (see my signature) and the shudder has disappeared. I've tried repeatedly to make it shudder and it won't. Pure conjecture - the bushings were so soft that the differential and drive shaft had some fore/aft motion that interfered with smooth engagement.
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Last edited by MA128; 04-07-2013 at 09:33 AM. Reason: Update
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      09-03-2012, 12:07 PM   #2
AdamRamjit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul53 View Post
I've seen a few references to this on other threads but nothing definitive. The car has 57,000 miles and I occasionally get a shudder or chatter at low revs taking off from a stop. Seems a little worse when the engine/tranny is warm. It also is getting worse as the miles accumulate. I've heard 3 different theories:

- clutch surface is glazed and the cure would be to more forcefully engage the clutch (less slippage)

- clutch surface has some deposits on it from rough engagement and the cure would be to aggressively slip the clutch to wear off the deposit

- UUC ad in Bavarian Autosport catalog blames flaws in the dual-mass flywheel. Cure, naturally, is a new UUC clutch and flywheel.

Anyone have any ideas or - even better - experience with this issue and a satisfactory solution?

Thanks for your help.
im having this same problem, i took out my exhaust and wen i rebolted it, the sound got worse. now i can only hear it bad when i put my a/c on. i have a feeling its just something touching the exhaust manifold and making it rattle.
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      09-03-2012, 01:30 PM   #3
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There are two different things being addressed by Paul53 & AdamRamjit. I have experienced both. 1st, yes my clutch engagement also does not seem to be smooth at times, mostly when car is cold or has been sitting in cold weather for days without driving. It does however improve as things warm up. I've never brought it up with the dealer as it is not that bad, but perhaps as Paul53 is experiencing, it may get worse as the drive train loosens up with age (I've only got 13,000 km on mine (~8k miles)).
As to the vibration issue, (something like the exhaust piping or transmission bell housing touching the body) I get this from time to time and have had the dealer look at it to no end (everthing appears to have adequate clearance). I think that this is a condition that has been experienced by many owners. If so, it's disappointing that BMW can't eliminate a vibration that is typical of a poorly done exhaust system installation.

Jack
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      09-03-2012, 04:46 PM   #4
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What a timely post! I have the same thing on my car! I am at 70.000 miles. I was thinking I was alone and f.ed up my clutch myself. Apparently not!

Same symptoms Low speed take offs, or initial take offs.
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Last edited by Evice; 09-03-2012 at 04:52 PM.
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      09-03-2012, 09:00 PM   #5
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Are you guys referring to the slight jerk at engagement? Usually at low speed?

I have this rarely, usually I blame my self.
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      09-04-2012, 12:51 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
Are you guys referring to the slight jerk at engagement? Usually at low speed?

I have this rarely, usually I blame my self.
Andrey - I attribute what you're describing to the slow responsiveness of the drive-by-wire throttle. Happens to me sometimes. I was asking about something different. The throttle is responding but there is a definite mechanical shudder from the clutch/flywheel interface when the clutch is partially re-engaged (as I'm taking up the clutch pedal travel). This also takes place during relatively low-RPM launches.
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      09-04-2012, 01:05 PM   #7
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I have a clutch "shudder". It doesn't really translate to motion issues, I can just hear the clutch shudder. Especially at very low RPM shifts / pulling into garage etc.

Since my car was in for one last "pre-warranty-expiration" tune-up, I put it down as an issue, but the service tech wrote it off as normal for our cars (he had a pretty lengthy explanation). It doesn't seem to cause any issues actually moving (the car still moves smoothly).
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      09-04-2012, 01:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by int2str View Post
I have a clutch "shudder". It doesn't really translate to motion issues, I can just hear the clutch shudder. Especially at very low RPM shifts / pulling into garage etc.

Since my car was in for one last "pre-warranty-expiration" tune-up, I put it down as an issue, but the service tech wrote it off as normal for our cars (he had a pretty lengthy explanation). It doesn't seem to cause any issues actually moving (the car still moves smoothly).
yes, I have the same thing as well and have taken it like you. The clutch shudders when i pull into my garage and at low RPM. Despite the slight shudder, It moves fine and the clutch feels good. The garage being a closed space also amplifies the sound so it is more noticeable.

Has anyone noticed that it is more pronounced with certain tunes? When I was stage 2+ Linear throttle I noticed it a lot more, but since switching to stage 1+ stock throttle it is much less. Could it be a throttle issue?
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      09-04-2012, 02:26 PM   #9
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My clutch has shuddered on engagemment in 1st gear since new. Dealer indicated normal operation on inspection. I always thought it is worse when cold due to moisture issues.
Let clutch out all the way - apply throttle
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      09-04-2012, 08:02 PM   #10
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Just an experience I had: Went driving around in neighborhoods all day looking for houses so I was creeping around, lots of 1st gear and clutching and whatnot, stopping to roll by houses, etc. After that I noticed some extra vibration and "shudder" if you will. I was kinda babying it for a few days and it was staying the same.. Mentioned to my neighbor who is a toyota tech and he said maybe some hotspots from the abnormal driving and to not worry and just go beat on it. So I drove it pretty hard and sure enough it went back to feeling about the same as it did before that day of creeping... Anyway, just one experience like I said...
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      09-07-2012, 10:43 AM   #11
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i have the same issue -
As I'm putting the car into 1st gear, I can feel some "shaking". When the car was new, I didn't get this, probably started in the last 5-10k miles (I'm at 40k right now). It is more noticeable if I'm doing a lot of stop-and-go driving (clutching in and out constantly).

I've told my service advisor about it during maintenance, but they always said they either could not replicate or that it's normal.

By the way, have you guys done the CDV delete? I did, but just wanted to see if there's any link to that.
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      09-07-2012, 12:14 PM   #12
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Yes, I've done the CDV delete.
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      09-08-2012, 01:36 AM   #13
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I ve done CDV delete.
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      09-09-2012, 09:37 PM   #14
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i have CDV delete, the guy I went to simply removed the whole valve/plug. I dont have any dummy valve.
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      09-30-2012, 03:05 PM   #15
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bump (see edit on original post)
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      09-30-2012, 08:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MA128 View Post
bump (see edit on original post)
Woohoaaaa That's interesting!!!!
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      10-05-2012, 11:05 AM   #17
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MA128 - what does changing the subframe bushings consist of?

Not too familiar with that part...maybe there were some bolts you tightened in that process that fixed the problem
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      10-08-2012, 11:38 AM   #18
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info

Part numbers should be 33316758259 front and 260 rear for the stock parts. They are called sub-frame mount bushings and also rear axle hub carrier bushings. They are on most 1 and 3 series cars since 2004. I didn't look up the M3 part number. I would like to know the difficulty to replace these. I too have had some clutch shutter.
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      10-09-2012, 02:57 PM   #19
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The rear subframe bushings are quite difficult to replace. The subframe has to be dropped from the chassis because the forward pair of bushings has to be removed and replaced from above. The rearward bushings can be replaced from below (subframe can stay in place). I'm not a DIY kind of guy but from reading this forum and talking to my indie shop, this is a job for experienced mechanics only. The job is usually quoted as taking anywhere from 4 to 8 hours of labor. You also need a special tool to press in the new bushings (not sure about removing the old bushings).

Best of luck.
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      10-09-2012, 06:28 PM   #20
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I have all the M3 bits and recent (<5k miles) M3 subframe bushings. They had no effects on the clutch shudder on my car.
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      10-10-2012, 08:26 PM   #21
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i felt this clutch shudder sound too, at idle on neutral after my car was parked for a week. A spirited drive did solve the issue. Odd
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