Claying the car

[Da _Grk_Tuner]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

I would use clay bar bought from an online detailer like "Detailer's Domain" or "Detailed Image".

I once used some Meguiar's clay kit on a dark green bmw and it was pure hell trying to fix all the spots where the clay bar stuck to the paint. I told myself never again would I buy a clay bar, "off the shelf" so to speak. I've used DD's (blue)uber clay bar and liked it. Also be sure to buy a clay bar lube too.


Dack

how about

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Clay_Bar..._p/cly_109.htm

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Da _Grk_Tuner

how about

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Clay_Bar..._p/cly_109.htm

I've never used their clay bar. But I have used other products from Chemical Guys, and I am really impressed by their stuff. Like their JetSeal109.

[JimD]

This is what I use:

http://www.autogeek.net/motcalgolcla...FetDMgodlnoAyA

It is the mothers clay bar kit that I buy locally. It is the only clay I've seen locally which is why I tried it. the first kit worked well so I bought another. I think you can do a 1 series with half a bar but you have to mash it out flat and get the car clean first. They give you a spray bottle of their detailing spray to use as lubrication and I didn't use near all of it. It is handy to have around for when a bird or bug leaves you a "present".

I don't have any doubt there are better sources of clay but I find the mothers kit works fine and is readily available at a decent price.

Jim

[PerryTM]

Might be a dumb question, but can you still clay our type of headlights since their not glass or will it just mess up the plastic housing?

[crystaweizen]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

I would use clay bar bought from an online detailer like "Detailer's Domain" or "Detailed Image".

I once used some Meguiar's clay kit on a dark green bmw and it was pure hell trying to fix all the spots where the clay bar stuck to the paint. I told myself never again would I buy a clay bar, "off the shelf" so to speak. I've used DD's (blue)uber clay bar and liked it. Also be sure to buy a clay bar lube too.


Dack

Yea if the clay bar is sticking its either because its worn or because its not lubricated enough. I would think I clay bar would be better at removing contaminants then a pad with some magic sauce on it. If anything I would do it after a clay but in my opinion nothing can replace a clay in doing what it does. I've used clay on my white 135 and had beautiful wet paint after wax. 50 to 75 percent of finish quality is in prep work

[crystaweizen]

Originally Posted by PerryTM

Might be a dumb question, but can you still clay our type of headlights since their not glass or will it just mess up the plastic housing?

It couldn't hurt but you're not trying to get a reflective finish from them either. You can hand apply polish or lens cleaner then hand remove it or buff off using a finish pad on sloooow speed. The plastic won't forgive you for heat

[PerryTM]

Originally Posted by crystaweizen

It couldn't hurt but you're not trying to get a reflective finish from them either. You can hand apply polish or lens cleaner then hand remove it or buff off using a finish pad on sloooow speed. The plastic won't forgive you for heat

Thanks for the help.

[crystaweizen]

Originally Posted by JimD

This is what I use:

http://www.autogeek.net/motcalgolcla...FetDMgodlnoAyA

It is the mothers clay bar kit that I buy locally. It is the only clay I've seen locally which is why I tried it. the first kit worked well so I bought another. I think you can do a 1 series with half a bar but you have to mash it out flat and get the car clean first. They give you a spray bottle of their detailing spray to use as lubrication and I didn't use near all of it. It is handy to have around for when a bird or bug leaves you a "present".

I don't have any doubt there are better sources of clay but I find the mothers kit works fine and is readily available at a decent price.

Jim

Griotts gives you a very large chunk of quality clay for the same price as the major companies

[crystaweizen]

Originally Posted by PerryTM

Thanks for the help.

No problem if you want to avoid any problems best to do lenses by hand.

[crystaweizen]

Originally Posted by bmw1racer

^ If done right, I'd think you'd be buffing out the surface contaminants, not the clear coat.

Clay removes surface contamination. When you cut or polish you are actually taking microns of clear coat off making the scratches and swirls disappear

[Joeyb7]

Originally Posted by crystaweizen

Clay removes surface contamination. When you cut or polish you are actually taking microns of clear coat off making the scratches and swirls disappear

Exactly....you're just rounding down the edges of any defects on a micro level.

[crystaweizen]

Originally Posted by Joeyb7

Exactly....you're just rounding down the edges of any defects on a micro level.

Yep yep bringing down the clear coat to the same level as the bottom of the scratch. So theoretically the more you buff/polish your car the more clear coat you are taking away. But realistically unless you are using an aggressive pad and/or compound you will do little to no harm to your finish

[cat-like]

My car is on order and I intend to have it run over with a clay bar and polished within a week of picking it up.

I did this with the my last new car (Golf R) and the difference was amazing.

[Rahulsinghrura]

Where can I get a clay bar?