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      01-07-2012, 10:42 AM   #1
Wkwlb
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Clutch stuck on engine start

Earlier this evening when I was going to start my 135i, which is MY2010 N55 6MT, I fully depressed the clutch pedal and pressed the engine start button. To my horror the shift stick was refusing to shift into any gears, I lifted my foot off clutch and found the clutch pedal stuck at the bottom position. I switched off the car and lifted the pedal with my hand, ignited again and everything was fine again.

Any body has experienced this before? could it be a sign that the gearbox is failing on me? Car has only 45000km on it.

I will take it to dealer on Monday but problem now is I can't replicate the problem... Any input will be much appreciated.
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      01-07-2012, 10:52 AM   #2
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Wow, I've never heard of this before, but I would have been freaking out big time I think.
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      01-07-2012, 11:03 AM   #3
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try bleeding the clutch. it could be the master or slave cylinder.

have you done anything recently? cdv delete, changed brake fluid, etc...?

if you flush the fluid and it fixes the problem, it probably wont be permanent. Most likely, the seal in the master/slave cylinder is flipped, and allowing fluid to bypass it. Flushing the fluid can flip it back, but once it happens, it almost always happens again (like dislocating a shoulder).

GL, not a serious problem, but will most likely require parts replacement. your transmission should be fine, and your clutch should be ok as long as it gets taken care of soon.

Last edited by ezeedee; 01-07-2012 at 11:08 AM. Reason: add more info
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      01-07-2012, 11:19 AM   #4
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^^^ as stated above, this is related to the master/slave cylinders. One of the two could have gone bad, or both at the same time (which is very rare). Easy way to check: stick your head underneath the dashboard and look up behind the pedals, do you see any fluid leaking by the firewall near the clutch pedal? If the master cylinder went bad, a clutch fluid leak will/may be visible most likely inside the car where I just mentioned to check.

If all looks good inside the car, then you'll have to get underneath the car and check the slave cylinder for leaks (mounted to the transmission). If no leaks are found, there may be air in the system, at which point you should go ahead and bleed it, in hopes that this will fix it and that it will not happen again. If it does happen again, there may be a small leak in the clutch system.
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      01-07-2012, 12:13 PM   #5
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wow, thanks for the fast response, will definitely check for leaks in car first thing tmr morning and try bleed the fluid on Monday.

Car is serviced in end of November, but I have not heard any reports on problems related to this. However, 2 days ago I installed a Forge intercooler at a local workshop, possible the mechanic there messed up something during the installation? Even though I think that's highly unlikely, I did notice some minor oil stains near the transmission area while watching them doing the installation. Mechanics told me that was normal thus I didn't really gave a big fuss about it.... Could that be it?
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      01-07-2012, 12:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sylon View Post
Wow, I've never heard of this before, but I would have been freaking out big time I think.
I did almost freak out in the first moment when I found the stick isn't moving anywhere. Got 3 passengers inside the car too. A tow truck would be a big disaster for the night
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      01-07-2012, 12:23 PM   #7
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the intercooler install shouldnt have messed anything up. its impossible to know if the stain was the clutch fluid or not. If you have a leak, you will find out very soon.
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      01-08-2012, 04:50 AM   #8
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never heard of that in any car. don't tinker with it and just take it in to the dealership.
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      01-08-2012, 05:09 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wkwlb View Post
wow, thanks for the fast response, will definitely check for leaks in car first thing tmr morning and try bleed the fluid on Monday.

Car is serviced in end of November, but I have not heard any reports on problems related to this. However, 2 days ago I installed a Forge intercooler at a local workshop, possible the mechanic there messed up something during the installation? Even though I think that's highly unlikely, I did notice some minor oil stains near the transmission area while watching them doing the installation. Mechanics told me that was normal thus I didn't really gave a big fuss about it.... Could that be it?

Sounds like your slave cylinder has gone out. It happens. But usually only on older cars(10+ yrs or older).

Usually when the hydraulic clutch master cylinder starts to leak(fail), it drips brake fluid down onto the floor mats.

In either case, your clutch will not disengage when one of those parts fails.

You could look at the brake resivor. The clutch circut (the res is divided) it is close-r to the driver than the engine. See if the fluid is low.



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      01-08-2012, 08:03 AM   #10
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If your clutch resevoir is empty, try adding fluid, which should give you some clutch back, it will probably feel different and not engage 100% but should allow you to drive it to your shop or dealer so they can properly diagnose and fix your problem.
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      01-08-2012, 08:17 PM   #11
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Just got new WeatherTech floormats for Christmas. <Thanks Honey!> When I first put them in, I did not take the time install the little hooks that hold them in place. A day or two later, when starting the car on a forward sloping hill, the clutch would not release. It was indeed stuck on the edge of the mat which had slid forward an inch or so. Holy Toyota!

Surely you checked for something simple like this.
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      01-09-2012, 01:36 PM   #12
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I had that happen to me before but it was on my 1995 325is which was 15 years old at the time! I got rid of the car soon after that happened. It was the master and the slave cylinder that were bad in that instance.
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      01-09-2012, 02:01 PM   #13
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One thing I might add... when one goes - soon will the "other one" will fail. Meaning: if your clutch slave goes out... your master will go soon after that or vise versa. You should always replace both master and slave at the same time - when one fails. At least on an older car. I don't think BMW would pay to replace both while under warranty.
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      12-26-2012, 10:30 PM   #14
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What ened up being wrong with this? I just had the same thing happen to me while at a stop light but the dealership is trying to tell me its the clutch. At 45k miles? I don't think so. Please help I need to tell them not to pull the tranny first thing in the morning. Did you try to pull the pedal up with your hand? I got mine up but then there was no pressure at all.
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      12-26-2012, 11:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
One thing I might add... when one goes - soon will the "other one" will fail. Meaning: if your clutch slave goes out... your master will go soon after that or vise versa. You should always replace both master and slave at the same time - when one fails. At least on an older car. I don't think BMW would pay to replace both while under warranty.
I second that.
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      12-27-2012, 01:08 AM   #16
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Anyone?
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      12-27-2012, 09:20 AM   #17
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Had that happen to me while driving in my Nissan 180SX years ago, turns out my clutch disc was ready to go and it ended up exploding into pieces before I could get the car home.
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      12-27-2012, 11:35 AM   #18
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Check the carpet....
just saying...it could be stuck on the carpet.
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      12-27-2012, 11:51 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpooledSouth View Post
What ened up being wrong with this? I just had the same thing happen to me while at a stop light but the dealership is trying to tell me its the clutch. At 45k miles? I don't think so. Please help I need to tell them not to pull the tranny first thing in the morning. Did you try to pull the pedal up with your hand? I got mine up but then there was no pressure at all.
If yours is acting just like the OPs, then same potential issue (master/slave cylinder) but be aware, mine acted similar at 35K miles and it was a destroyed clutch (granted, it was accompanied by the awful smell of burnt clutch too, which gave it away). I received a new dual mass flywheel and clutch under warranty...premature clutch failure on the 135/335 isn't too common, but not unheard of either.
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      12-27-2012, 01:12 PM   #20
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Did it show signs of slipping before this happened? I wouldn't say it is just like the OP because I was already driving but the pedal was stuck to the floor but once I pulled my pedal up I could push it down and it would come back up.
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      12-27-2012, 01:29 PM   #21
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Only barely, once. All in all it was rather sudden though. I'd agree yours sounds more like a cylinder issue and not a failed clutch though (I had just mentioned it to make you aware that it isn't unheard of).
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      12-27-2012, 05:08 PM   #22
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Only barely, once. All in all it was rather sudden though. I'd agree yours sounds more like a cylinder issue and not a failed clutch though (I had just mentioned it to make you aware that it isn't unheard of).
Thank you for responding. I thought so as well. It is going up on the racks tonight for them to start working on it. The service provider I talked to at BMW said the mechanic already looked it over before today it automatically said it was the clutch. I said well can you change the slave/master cylinders and bleed the lines first and he said well we can but then that is getting into out of pocket expense. He said why not start with something free first... How says that. Its not free if they come back and say that the flywheel is damaged or that its due to driver fault. I have the 100k service plan but they said it doesn't cover the flywheel. and that alone is going to be $1400.
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