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      01-02-2013, 12:27 AM   #23
Walter_Sobchak
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http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ng_comparison/

Here's your "crap". Not sure how I'm supposed to reliably add octane without driving to a "93" state. Let me know of a better way if you have one...

Don't mean to diss on BMW's engineering prowess with my post but it seems that the added boost from the ecu is giving other parts of the intake/exhaust tract some fits. Why wouldn't it. I'm asking for a major increase in one part of the power process deal (added boost from adjusted waste gate/fuel/ignition) while not improving another (physical limitations of the stock intake and exhaust tract). Again, I'm not disparaging the "brand", I'm just learning that the ecu reflash naturally exposes some weak links in the turbo-charged combustion process that I had not anticipated to be so glaring.

Back to your regularly scheduled programming.
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      01-02-2013, 12:36 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walter_Sobchak View Post
I'm asking for a major increase in one part of the power process deal (added boost from adjusted waste gate/fuel/ignition) while not improving another (physical limitations of the stock intake and exhaust tract). Again, I'm not disparaging the "brand", I'm just learning that the ecu reflash naturally exposes some weak links in the turbo-charged combustion process that I had not anticipated to be so glaring.


From what I have researched, and read up on.... upgrading the stock intake/air box is actually hurting you. Since the 135i can't truly benefit from a real CAI, we are stuck with a type of short ram mixed with racing air scoops.

The stock Air Box is set up for maximum air induction for the engine design. Or you could spend a pretty penny on a Gruppe M intake system. Other than that, the intake system isn't really a stable stand point for any type of arguement.
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      01-02-2013, 09:41 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Walter_Sobchak View Post
For the rest of you, I put some more miles on the new tune and it seems my car is having trouble managing boost when it's at it's highest level. It seems the BOV is overcompensating at certain moments causing the condition I explained above.
BOV is overcompensating? What the hell does that even mean?
This article uses a carbuerater and distributed ignition. It's results are worthless for a modern engine with the type of knock control and learning. There's nothing in the article worthwhile.

I do remain skeptical of over the counter octane boosters. I would probably buy a commercial race gas and mix it in.
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      01-02-2013, 09:52 AM   #26
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[quote=Walter_Sobchak;13238738


Don't mean to diss on BMW's engineering prowess with my post but it seems that the added boost from the ecu is giving other parts of the intake/exhaust tract some fits. Why wouldn't it. I'm asking for a major increase in one part of the power process deal (added boost from adjusted waste gate/fuel/ignition) while not improving another (physical limitations of the stock intake and exhaust tract). Again, I'm not disparaging the "brand", I'm just learning that the ecu reflash naturally exposes some weak links in the turbo-charged combustion process that I had not anticipated to be so glaring.

Back to your regularly scheduled programming.[/QUOTE]
That isn't really fair as the car works perfectly as BMW designed it. If they intended it to be a 450hp car it would have some beefier parts on it. As a 300hp car the stock parts work just fine.
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      01-02-2013, 10:07 AM   #27
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I also came from heavily modded Suby, I had a stage 3 externally gated 2011 WRX. I had it putting down 375AWHP/380TQ before returning to stock and selling for a 135i.
Anyway, if you think you're car is feeling boosty, like not linear at all, you should think about getting rid of stock charge pipe and intercooler as well as all the crappy fittings/couplings in between.
I have no idea how you are connecting the charge pipe with "feeling boosty". This makes no sense whatsoever and is horrible advice.
Plastic charge pipe/diverter valves and all the other stuff tends to leak under higher than stock boost levels is what I meant. Check out Couplings between intercoooler and charge pipe and you will know what I mean.
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      01-05-2013, 10:26 PM   #28
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it's probably knocking because of gas, stop putting octane booster in your car and thinking it's going to be normal 93. use a 91 map until you can get FBO and then go get a protune for 91 before you blow the damn thing up.
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      01-06-2013, 09:42 AM   #29
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Plastic charge pipe/diverter valves and all the other stuff tends to leak under higher than stock boost levels is what I meant. Check out Couplings between intercoooler and charge pipe and you will know what I mean.
Looks like somebody made a sale off of you. Unless there is an actual problem, I wouldn't go around replacing parts just because of running higher boost. Its actually pretty easy to perform a boost leak test and see if there are any leaks in the plastic charge/diverter valves under higher pressures. The only time I would actually consider upgrading the stock charge pipe, is only on the N55's because that is known to break even under stock boost levels.
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      01-06-2013, 11:02 AM   #30
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Looks like somebody made a sale off of you. Unless there is an actual problem, I wouldn't go around replacing parts just because of running higher boost. Its actually pretty easy to perform a boost leak test and see if there are any leaks in the plastic charge/diverter valves under higher pressures. The only time I would actually consider upgrading the stock charge pipe, is only on the N55's because that is known to break even under stock boost levels.
N54 chargepipe does seem to be more robust for whatever reason, mine was holding 17psi midrange tapering to 12psi just fine, I just swapped it out because the ER chargepipe was a gift.
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      02-03-2013, 12:35 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RnmEvo9 View Post
Looks like somebody made a sale off of you. Unless there is an actual problem, I wouldn't go around replacing parts just because of running higher boost. Its actually pretty easy to perform a boost leak test and see if there are any leaks in the plastic charge/diverter valves under higher pressures. The only time I would actually consider upgrading the stock charge pipe, is only on the N55's because that is known to break even under stock boost levels.
Not in my case, my boost leaks were happening on the dyno with said stock charge pipe and couplings. Check out that coupling between the charge pipe and the intercooler and you will know what I mean (It's like a glorified thick balloon)...especially when your car is on a dyno you can see things expanding and the engine moving. My mechanic did a boost leak test pre dyno so I know it was not an installation error. You get better flow with bigger pipes and sturdy silicone couplings anyway. I am making pretty good numbers and the car feels awesome. I just wish I had wider rubber in the rear for more traction.
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      02-03-2013, 04:52 PM   #32
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OTC Octane Boosters wont do much, if anything, to increase your octane OP...

If you want a REAL octane increase, and have no access to race fuel or higher than 91-93, go order a bottle of TORCO race fuels Accelerator. Race fuel concentrate, not octane booster. It's cheap, and it really will increase your octane up to 105 depending on how you mix it. Try that and report back...

Also, I know what you are talking about with how the car feels. Once I upgraded the downpipes it went away. You also need to upgrade the intercooler if you expect to achieve back to back power pulls consistently.
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      02-11-2013, 03:45 PM   #33
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I also get some drastic boost fluctuations if I don't have the traction control ALL the way off or if I'm running too much boost for the fuel (timing reductions). It swings from 10-16psi up and down on a single third gear pull, it feels pretty wild in the car.

Turning off the traction results in a smooth power delivery but lots of tire spin.
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      02-11-2013, 04:06 PM   #34
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You think it can't handle the power with the 91 tune...Try the E30 race tune. Can you say spinning the tires in third?
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