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      01-10-2013, 10:17 PM   #1
Adam135
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Battery replacement isn't cheap

My car started displaying the vehicle on lift icon (CC-ID 415 - Increased Battery Discharge). I also noticed my LED light bars and AEs stopped lighting up when unlocking the car. Took it to the dealer who determined the battery was bad. They blamed it on my aftermarket amplifier and EQ, so it wasn't covered under warranty (not sure if it would have been anyway?). The amp/EQ stay powered on about 60 seconds after locking the car. The dealer believes this killed the battery over time. I think this is normal - I used an installer who does tons of BMWs - hopefully someone can confirm. Then I found out the cost for a new one I was quoted $650 - $400 for the battery and $250 in labor. They ended up price matching another nearby dealer who was about $100 cheaper. Labor stayed at $240 - what a rip. I was told they used a larger battery which should work better with the aftermarket equipment. BMWPartsSupply has the battery for $235.




Last edited by Adam135; 01-11-2013 at 08:18 PM.
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      01-10-2013, 10:30 PM   #2
Tee-Dub
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Holy Hell, $235 to install a battery? How does it take 1.5-2 hours to install a battery?
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      01-10-2013, 10:32 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tee-Dub View Post
Holy Hell, $235 to install a battery? How does it take 1.5-2 hours to install a battery?
They register it to the vehicle and do some programming. There's no way it takes more than 5 or 10 minutes.
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      01-10-2013, 10:40 PM   #4
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You really payed this much for a battery?
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      01-10-2013, 10:40 PM   #5
Adam135
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Originally Posted by blakelocati View Post
You really payed this much for a battery?
What other option is there? The four closest BMW dealers were all within $100 of each other. At that point my battery was completely dead and I would have had to tow it out. I've replaced tons of batteries, but I'm not able to code the car. People weren't kidding when they said BMW maintenance is expensive

Last edited by Adam135; 01-10-2013 at 11:46 PM.
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      01-11-2013, 01:47 AM   #6
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The vehicle needs the battery to be registered to know what your putting in there so it can recharge accordingly, since he went to an upgraded AGM battery programming is needed, if the same lead acid battery was installed no programming is needed, costs usually range from 500-700, you can install an aftermarket battery and the dealer can register it but it is not recommended due to the high current demand that most cant handle
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      01-11-2013, 01:50 AM   #7
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You should have asked for a one time goodwill gesture also
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      01-11-2013, 08:35 AM   #8
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Wow... That's insanity.
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      01-11-2013, 10:37 AM   #9
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Registered? Programmed? Even if replaced with the same model? That's really unusual.

It does sound like they had to do some troubleshooting to find out you had an amp and eq that were not properly relayed to turn off without the key in the ignition. I'm sure that was part of the labor charge, possibly a significant portion. Sure, physically swapping the battery shouldn't take more than 15 minutes.

I'm curious how you have your amp/eq wired to stay on more than 0 seconds but less than 61 after the key is removed. Generally people wire the "remote" turn on lead straight to an "ignition" source which should be immediate. How sure are you this is wired properly?
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      01-11-2013, 12:30 PM   #10
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It is not unheard of to spend this sort of money for a battery at a BMW dealer due to coding.


OP - did you take that pic of that BMW battery? Is that the battery they used for your car? I ask bc in the photo(on the side just bellow the bmw part number!) it says: 92Ah and 850amps (cold cranking) while in the paper work it says: 90Ah!
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      01-11-2013, 12:35 PM   #11
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Damn
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      01-11-2013, 01:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freon View Post
I'm curious how you have your amp/eq wired to stay on more than 0 seconds but less than 61 after the key is removed. Generally people wire the "remote" turn on lead straight to an "ignition" source which should be immediate. How sure are you this is wired properly?
As stated, I used a very reputable audio shop that the BWM dealer I went to actually recommends. I think this is normal but I was hoping someone else with an aftermarket amp can verify. If other people's equipment powers off immediately then I can look at having the remote wire relocated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
OP - did you take that pic of that BMW battery? Is that the battery they used for your car? I ask bc in the photo(on the side just bellow the bmw part number!) it says: 92Ah and 850amps (cold cranking) while in the paper work it says: 90Ah!
Updated the OP with a picture of the battery. I had taken the battery picture from an M5 forum, oops
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      01-11-2013, 01:32 PM   #13
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Here is the old battery..

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      01-11-2013, 02:39 PM   #14
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I've had the exact same Icon come up with "Increased battery discharge" displayed on Idrive and my headlights didn't dim on either. I took my car in stating only that my headlights didn't light up anymore when unlocking the car. They told me it was prob a glitch in software...so they reloaded new software update and now my headlights work and no Icon. For how long...? Because I also suspect it's the battery and they probably just tricklecharged it to get me out of there knowing I'm close to end of my warranty period. I could be paranoid.
I asked for the version of software loaded just to update my fellow 1addicts on how it would affect performance, but they didn't provide it to me. All occurred just this week.
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      01-16-2013, 12:23 AM   #15
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All BMW batteries need to be registered . If you go with the Black AGM battery the vehicle has to be programmed and retrofitted for that battery. I don't know if I agree that the bigger battery will help with your aftermarket electronics because most dealers offer the black 900cca AGM batteries to customers that let there vehicle sit for extended periods or do a lot of short trip driving . They off this battery because they don't deplete as fast as the white housing batteries.
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      01-16-2013, 07:22 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam135 View Post
As stated, I used a very reputable audio shop that the BWM dealer I went to actually recommends. I think this is normal but I was hoping someone else with an aftermarket amp can verify. If other people's equipment powers off immediately then I can look at having the remote wire relocated.



Updated the OP with a picture of the battery. I had taken the battery picture from an M5 forum, oops
i have an aftermarket amp/sub and it also stays on for about a minute after the car is off.
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      01-16-2013, 07:35 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naoto View Post
i have an aftermarket amp/sub and it also stays on for about a minute after the car is off.
The amp staying on for a minute was just a BS excuse...the amp is not getting a signal, there for the current draw is virtually nothing. As a matter of fact the indicator light staying on is likely only due to the capacitors discharging. Your courtesy lights when you unlock the car are probably pulling much more current.

However, if you are running a cheap 1000 watt amp and cranking it and/or have poor ventilation, the current draw may be accessive and contributing to the OP's problem.

Either way, that was ridiculous....IMHO
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      01-16-2013, 11:10 AM   #18
Adam135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naoto View Post
i have an aftermarket amp/sub and it also stays on for about a minute after the car is off.
Thanks for verifying!

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveAZ View Post
Either way, that was ridiculous....IMHO
Totally agree.
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      01-16-2013, 12:02 PM   #19
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GTFOH!
Are you serious!
$500 for a new WHAT!
There goes the $200 @ Costco option! ha ha!
OMG that's freaking nuts!
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      01-18-2013, 12:30 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveAZ View Post
The amp staying on for a minute was just a BS excuse...the amp is not getting a signal, there for the current draw is virtually nothing. As a matter of fact the indicator light staying on is likely only due to the capacitors discharging. Your courtesy lights when you unlock the car are probably pulling much more current.

However, if you are running a cheap 1000 watt amp and cranking it and/or have poor ventilation, the current draw may be accessive and contributing to the OP's problem.

Either way, that was ridiculous....IMHO
my amp actually turns on whenever there is a signal from the speakers. i can hear a faint buzz from the speakers when the car is off from time to time. it also happens when i open the trunk. i do agree that it is a bs excuse from the dealer though.
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      01-18-2013, 04:47 PM   #21
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I have a sort of noise (not sure its a "buzz") as well when the car is actually off. Very strange behavior. It also sounds like there is some emissions/charcoal cansister pump stuff going on under the trunk after I park and lock my car sometimes, so I suspect that is creating some noise in the electrical system that makes its way into the speakers. Still odd that it happens when the car is off and the radio is presumably unpowered.
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      01-18-2013, 04:57 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freon View Post
I have a sort of noise (not sure its a "buzz") as well when the car is actually off. Very strange behavior. It also sounds like there is some emissions/charcoal cansister pump stuff going on under the trunk after I park and lock my car sometimes, so I suspect that is creating some noise in the electrical system that makes its way into the speakers. Still odd that it happens when the car is off and the radio is presumably unpowered.
Some of the early '08 & '09 cars got a buzzing thru the speakers when the car is off. That was fixed via a SW update.

The hum or buzz noise under hood, is sometimes referred to as the "fax machine" or "laser printer" warming up noise. Thats normal. I think its the electric water pump cycling coolant thru the system. IF the noise is coming from the rear of the car its the low pressure fuel pump(LPFP) - preventing vapor lock.
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