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      01-29-2013, 10:13 AM   #23
1Pirate
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Originally Posted by Sleeps View Post
Did you install the M3 front and rear sways? I am looking to do this down the road, just don't know what sways to go with.
I have an M3 FSB and it makes a significant difference in reducing body roll. There are aftermarket options available as well. I still have the stock rear sway bar. Most people tend to not change the rear bar because changing it doesn't really improve handling.
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      01-29-2013, 10:50 AM   #24
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Thanks for the input guys!
I do have e93 front sway and I do like it.
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      01-31-2013, 02:59 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by GaryS View Post
If you install stiffer springs and keep the stock subframe bushings, the rear will bounce as much or probably even more over bumps - about 1-1.5".
Gary, I have to disagree with this statement. I installed H&R springs just recently and the improvements vise the stock springs are night and day... I live in NOVA/DC and the roads here are sh1tty; full of pot holes and dangerous bumps smack dab in the middle of most of the turns on the beltway (well at least the routes I take). After installing the H&R's I noticed, being modest, 35-40% decrease in rear end movement. On the other hand, I did keep the stock shocks and I can honestly say the ride quality is inversely proportional to the stiffness... Maybe when I do the M3 Bushings; I'll upgrade to some Koni's.
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      01-31-2013, 03:17 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 011100001 View Post
Gary, I have to disagree with this statement. I installed H&R springs just recently and the improvements vise the stock springs are night and day... I live in NOVA/DC and the roads here are sh1tty; full of pot holes and dangerous bumps smack dab in the middle of most of the turns on the beltway (well at least the routes I take). After installing the H&R's I noticed, being modest, 35-40% decrease in rear end movement. On the other hand, I did keep the stock shocks and I can honestly say the ride quality is inversely proportional to the stiffness... Maybe when I do the M3 Bushings; I'll upgrade to some Koni's.
I don't know why you didn't have this problem but I did after installing BMW Performance springs, and I've seen many posts from other people who had the same problem after installing stiffer springs.

In this post, TC Kline is quoted saying the same thing:

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Originally Posted by ///M1 View Post
Picked up the latest Roundel, there is a small section on the TC Kline 135i ... Interesting comments that confirm what has been stated ^^^ about the M3 rear subframe bushings.

Per Kline's own words: "One of the first things you need to do with the 135i if you upgrade the suspension is put the M3 subframe bushings in it. The bushings are way too soft in the 1- and 3- series cars. If you do any kind of suspension upgrade and keep the stock bushings, the back end will bounce... Even if you put the stock M3 rear springs in a 135 or 335, the car would be really bouncy over bumps, because the subframe bushings are going to deflect 1-1 1/2 inches... For the M3, BMW used better bushings instead of the mushy stuff used in the other cars... Replacing the bushings is key."
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      01-31-2013, 03:58 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryS View Post
I don't know why you didn't have this problem but I did after installing BMW Performance springs, and I've seen many posts from other people who had the same problem after installing stiffer springs.

In this post, TC Kline is quoted saying the same thing:
Huuum that's weird... All I noticed was a really stiff ride. The "unstable rear end sway" while hitting a bump, during a turn, has been dramatically reduced for me; nor have I noticed any abnormal, and/or increased "rear bounce".

I knew the day I bought my car she was special! LOL
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      02-01-2013, 10:49 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 011100001 View Post
Huuum that's weird... All I noticed was a really stiff ride. The "unstable rear end sway" while hitting a bump, during a turn, has been dramatically reduced for me; nor have I noticed any abnormal, and/or increased "rear bounce".

I knew the day I bought my car she was special! LOL
I think you will see even more improvement if you switch to aftermarket dampers like the Konis. In my opinion the weakest link in th stock suspension is the dampers. The stock springs aren't far behind, especially on pre 2011model year cars.
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      02-10-2013, 12:34 PM   #29
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I had a chance this weekend to participate in a local car club rally. It was my first chance since the installation of the M3 sub frame bushings and rear upper links to do some extensive back road driving. I continue to be more and more impressed with the way the car handles and feels with all the M3 suspension upgrades. The car is so much more responsive and feels so much more planted to the road.
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      02-10-2013, 12:36 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Pirate View Post
I had a chance this weekend to participate in a local car club rally. It was my first chance since the installation of the M3 sub frame bushings and rear upper links to do some extensive back road driving. I continue to be more and more impressed with the way the car handles and feels with all the M3 suspension upgrades. The car is so much more responsive and feels so much more planted to the road.


+1. Yup, I have the same impression with mine. I am so glad I changed them to the M3 bushings. Now this Summer I will have to install the rest of the M3 suspension bits.


Dackel's replacement of rear suspension OE bushings with M3 ones…
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=638163
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      02-10-2013, 08:20 PM   #31
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Awesome info again 1pirate. Your route is the same route I m going. Definitely will look back at your posts as a reference. I did received the E93 sway bar this weekend. Woohoo
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      04-19-2013, 06:02 AM   #32
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Question Pirate you still loving it?

I'm going almost the same route as you I ordered the m3 frot suspension kit along with m3 subframe bushings and rear guide rods for now,and the more I read more I think I'm going with koni as well any feed back is welcomed
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      04-19-2013, 02:28 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie1 View Post
I'm going almost the same route as you I ordered the m3 frot suspension kit along with m3 subframe bushings and rear guide rods for now,and the more I read more I think I'm going with koni as well any feed back is welcomed
Most definitely. I wouldn't change a thing about the way I went about my suspension upgrades. I highly recommend the Koni Sports too. You have to work with them some in terms of tinkering with the adjustments to find that sweet spot, but when you do it is amazing.
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      04-21-2013, 02:11 PM   #34
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I'm doing the rear subframe bushings, control arm kit, and konis installation soon. I was thinking of doing the rear sway bar since the subframe will be out... but from looking around here half of the people say do it when the bushings are done and the other half say do it only if you have a LSD.
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      04-21-2013, 02:19 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giOsaurus_rEx View Post
I'm doing the rear subframe bushings, control arm kit, and konis installation soon. I was thinking of doing the rear sway bar since the subframe will be out... but from looking around here half of the people say do it when the bushings are done and the other half say do it only if you have a LSD.
Most say to only do a rear sway bar(RWB) when you have an LSD. The reason is IF you beef up the RSB, you will lift an inside wheel when corning and you will loose traction. You really need a LSD to overcome this problem.
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      04-21-2013, 06:09 PM   #36
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Thanks Dackelone. You and Harold have been nothing but help as I researched which route I should take for suspension.
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      04-24-2013, 02:23 PM   #37
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I'm going to be in trouble with this car. It's not even in production and I'm scouting parts. I keep reading that installation of the bushings is a PITA. How many hours would I need to pay in labor (average)?

If I do it, I'd probably do it when having the suspension swapped out.

Thanks
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      04-24-2013, 02:27 PM   #38
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Quote:
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I'm going to be in trouble with this car. It's not even in production and I'm scouting parts. I keep reading that installation of the bushings is a PITA. How many hours would I need to pay in labor (average)?
About 7 hours. I've gotten flat rate quotes of $400 for this job if done at the same time as other rear suspension components, which isn't too bad.
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      04-26-2013, 10:33 AM   #39
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Hey pirate, was wondering how many times you have adjusted your yellows Im torn between the Yellows and FSD I just don't want to regret going with the FSDs
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      04-26-2013, 10:42 AM   #40
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About 7 hours. I've gotten flat rate quotes of $400 for this job if done at the same time as other rear suspension components, which isn't too bad.
What shop was this at?!?
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      04-26-2013, 02:12 PM   #41
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Hey pirate, was wondering how many times you have adjusted your yellows Im torn between the Yellows and FSD I just don't want to regret going with the FSDs
I never have adjusted the rears after I initially set them at 2/3 of a turn from full soft. That setting was spot on. The fronts I adjusted about 4 times until I dialed them in like I want them. All my adjustments in front were fairly small resulting in subtle changes. If I remember correctly I ended up about 1 1/4 turn from full soft in front after starting at approximately 1 full turn.

If it were me I would definitely go with the Sports over the FSDs. The ability to adjust the damping to fit your driving style and the ride you want is worth the effort in having to initially adjust the dampers to me. Plus you can dial up the damping even more if you want to track or autocross your car.
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      04-26-2013, 11:12 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillisW555 View Post
I'm going to be in trouble with this car. It's not even in production and I'm scouting parts. I keep reading that installation of the bushings is a PITA. How many hours would I need to pay in labor (average)?

If I do it, I'd probably do it when having the suspension swapped out.

Thanks
It's a 7 hour job. It's a good time to upgrade the springs and dampers fi you are in the market for them. You can save some labor.

Come down and enjoy a day or two of beautiful beaches in Santa Barbara while your car is being worked on.
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      05-02-2013, 10:02 AM   #43
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I am new to the forum and am very impatiently awaiting the arrival of my 2013 135is. This really is a fantastic resource and I’d like to thank the many members who contribute here.

I have read as many of the M3 suspension threads as I can and feel that I have a reasonable understanding of what people are changing and why. However, comparing the RealOEM diagrams of the rear suspension from both the 1-series and the M3, I see an additional link that looks like it may give some benefit but that no-one seems to mention. On the 1-series the “Track strut with rubber mount” part# 33326763471 looks like it could be replaced by the M3 “Steering arm with ball joint” part# 33322283549. In very simplistic terms, I would have thought that the link with a ball joint from the M3 may give some advantage over the one with rubber mounts from the 1er.

I am certain that others must have looked at this, so could anyone let me know if this has been tried, if it will fit and/or if it would have any value as an additional modification.

Thanks very much for your help.
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      05-02-2013, 10:09 AM   #44
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I think you are referring to the Toe link in the rear suspension, which I don't think swaps directly from the M3. But HP Autowerks does sell an upgraded toe link which will work on the 135i and it does help somewhat.
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