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      04-21-2013, 08:37 AM   #67
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if you have a gas torch get plenty of heat on them,use either your removal sockets or a six sided socket for better grip,get some new nuts & bolts to replace if it fails
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      04-21-2013, 08:45 AM   #68
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Yeah, new it's will deffo be going on. I won't be re-using these!

I don't have a heat torch, but I did buy some spray that "freezes" the nut to crack the bond with the bolt. Alternatively I guess I could drive the car to warm it up, then apply the freezing spray for ultimate cracking effect?
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      04-21-2013, 08:55 AM   #69
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have not used the freeze spray but heard good results about it,if you do replace the bolts please post up how easy they are to get out of down pipes
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      04-21-2013, 10:32 AM   #70
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Sorry, we've got our wires crossed - i'll only be replacing the nuts. I'm pretty sure the bolts are welded in or something, so I won't be getting them out.
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      04-21-2013, 12:12 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRuss View Post
Hi folks, I'm looking to do this myself soon. Think it'll be my next mod. Only problem I have is removing the downpipe bolts, as mine are rusted on pretty good. I tried removing them a few weeks ago and my socket just turned on the bolt. I've since got some special bolt removal sockets, but I'm not sure if they'll fit in the tight space.

Any other tips? I already tried soaking it in penetrating oil and WD40.
My old downpipe nuts were pretty rusty too. I just soaked them several times with WD40. Also make sure you are using a high quality socket. Not a cheap Chinese set. Sometimes if your sockets are old and worn out... you can strip these copper nuts. Its always best to use (relatively new) tools.

The nuts are 13 mm's - I believe. I used a quality 13 mm 6 point (1/2")socket to get mine out. I was afraid of one of them would strip - thank God they all came off fine. I cleaned up the old stud threads with a wire brush and more WD40.

IF your old nuts have rounded off edges... maybe use a 13mm 12point and a hammer to drive the socket onto the old nut. Then go slowly counter clockwise. Or those specialty sockets to remove rounded off nuts.

Most hardware shops sell small "burners" to use to remove stubborn bolts. They are in the soldering section in the hardware store(s).
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      04-21-2013, 02:06 PM   #72
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Hi Dackel, my sockets are all brand new, and although not Snap-On or anything hyper expensive they are decent quality chrome vanadium sockets. Weirdly, when using the only socket that seemed to fit and a breaker bar for leverage it just seemed to round them off like they were made of cheese. Don't think I rounded them much though. I've since bought a set of Irwin sockets for removing rounded bolts, so hopefully they will fit in the space as required. Could I replace these nuts with a stainless set, rather than the BMW ones? Or is there some reason I shouldn't?
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      04-21-2013, 02:13 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRuss View Post
Hi Dackel, my sockets are all brand new, and although not Snap-On or anything hyper expensive they are decent quality chrome vanadium sockets. Weirdly, when using the only socket that seemed to fit and a breaker bar for leverage it just seemed to round them off like they were made of cheese. Don't think I rounded them much though. I've since bought a set of Irwin sockets for removing rounded bolts, so hopefully they will fit in the space as required. Could I replace these nuts with a stainless set, rather than the BMW ones? Or is there some reason I shouldn't?
I would stick with the copper BMW nuts. I think stainless would loose its strength over time and heat.

There is also a product that looks like a grease. You can smear it onto old rounded nuts... the grease has little bits of metal in it to "grab" or fill in the worn out nuts/gap. Most places that sell automotive oils and grease know of a product like this.

I would still be temped to buy a new 13 mm socket. And I would soak the crap out of those nuts. Maybe if you can spray them down a few times during the day - before attempting to remove them - that might do the "trick".
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      04-21-2013, 03:02 PM   #74
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Cool, I'll give it a go. No need for a new socket though, this one has barely been used - not worn at all.

Will try the Rost-off freezing/penetrating spray and if that doesn't work I'll hit it with the Irwin nut removers. Hope that's enough.
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      05-02-2013, 08:14 AM   #75
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JUST a FYI public service... I found out that the mid pipe nuts need to be torqued to 21Nm or about 15 ft/lbs. Hope this helps.
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      05-02-2013, 08:24 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
JUST a FYI public service... I found out that the mid pipe nuts need to be torqued to 21Nm or about 15 ft/lbs. Hope this helps.
Top work Dackel! Thanks for sharing this info - very helpful!
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      06-28-2013, 11:31 PM   #77
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Nice write up Dack. I really can't decide if I should go with this or with BMS Downpipes... I'm out of warranty and run a JB4, so I guess the downpipes would allow me to go Map 2... I don't want to be TOO loud. What do you guys think?
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      06-28-2013, 11:51 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRST1 View Post
Nice write up Dack. I really can't decide if I should go with this or with BMS Downpipes... I'm out of warranty and run a JB4, so I guess the downpipes would allow me to go Map 2... I don't want to be TOO loud. What do you guys think?
Downpipes for sure.
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      06-29-2013, 12:39 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRST1 View Post
Nice write up Dack. I really can't decide if I should go with this or with BMS Downpipes... I'm out of warranty and run a JB4, so I guess the downpipes would allow me to go Map 2... I don't want to be TOO loud. What do you guys think?

My engine tuner told me IF you want more than 400 Hp, you must get rid of the main cats(DP's). I don't want to do that bc of the smell and bc of raspyness. I am fine at just bellow 400 Hp level.
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      06-29-2013, 09:29 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
My engine tuner told me IF you want more than 400 Hp, you must get rid of the main cats(DP's). I don't want to do that bc of the smell and bc of raspyness. I am fine at just bellow 400 Hp level.
I am fine with being below 400HP too, I don't track and don't street race, but I'd love to have a little more aggressive sound and throttle response.

But what's the smell you're talking about? Is it constant?
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      06-29-2013, 09:41 AM   #81
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Quote:
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But... what's the smell you're talking about? Is it constant?
IF you delete the main cats by going with DP's... your exhaust will smell. For some it doesn't seem to bother them. For me I find it too much.

I really do not notice this smell when I deleted my secondary cats when I installed my N55 mid pipe on my N54 motor. But when I drive around with some of my friends car(they have NO cars) the smell is too much when you are behind them.


IF you want more volume from the exhaust sound... why not get BMW's Performance Exhaust. That is what I have done. I haven't installed it just yet, but it should be one soon. I think I will take off my N55 mids and install the N54 secondary cats along with the PE y-pipe to delete that resonator! This should be just the ticket for some nice sounds with the windows down.
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      06-29-2013, 09:30 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
IF you delete the main cats by going with DP's... your exhaust will smell. For some it doesn't seem to bother them. For me I find it too much.

I really do not notice this smell when I deleted my secondary cats when I installed my N55 mid pipe on my N54 motor. But when I drive around with some of my friends car(they have NO cars) the smell is too much when you are behind them.


IF you want more volume from the exhaust sound... why not get BMW's Performance Exhaust. That is what I have done. I haven't installed it just yet, but it should be one soon. I think I will take off my N55 mids and install the N54 secondary cats along with the PE y-pipe to delete that resonator! This should be just the ticket for some nice sounds with the windows down.

Yeah, I'm very interested in the PE, it's just that the price is driving me away

The fact that I can pick up DPs for $400 is pretty awesome. However the PE seems like it's more of what I'm looking for :/
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      06-30-2013, 04:38 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRST1 View Post
Yeah, I'm very interested in the PE, it's just that the price is driving me away

The fact that I can pick up DPs for $400 is pretty awesome. However the PE seems like it's more of what I'm looking for :/

Yea... that has put me off too for a long time. I've wanted one for over two years now. One more week and I will have it on my car! I think it will be exactly what I have been looking for.

I originally bought the N55 mid pipe - as a "poor mans" exhaust. I should have just used that money to buy a PE.
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      06-30-2013, 08:58 AM   #84
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How does this affect emmissions testing. I'm in Goergia and we need the testing for license plate renewal.
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      06-30-2013, 10:03 AM   #85
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Berk Street Cat BACK

Hi Dack - been following your posts, and have always been impressed with the detail. I have heard the PE and it is a great sound - an I am sure it will be more agressive with the N55 mids. I have a Berk Street cat back, and have really liked the sound. I have had it on for 4 months - and the sound has "mellowed" and IMHO, sounds just about right. I am considering adding the N55 mids and I will be getting a Cobb AP soon. Next stop will likely an FMIC and a CC.
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      06-30-2013, 10:56 AM   #86
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Well I picked up some N55 mids the other day. I'm currently running N54 mids with the y-pipe and BMWP exhaust. I intend to install the N55 mids without the y-pipe, but leave the BMWP rear section still on the car.

Do you think the car will be quieter or louder this way? Place your bets now - I should hopefully have the answer tomorrow if all goes well.

Essentially, I'll be adding back in a resonator (by not using the y-pipe) but removing the secondary cats. I'm not sure what suppresses the most noise though, the resonator or the cats?
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      06-30-2013, 04:28 PM   #87
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How does this affect emmissions testing. I'm in Goergia and we need the testing for license plate renewal.
IF they look for the secondary cats and see they are not there... you will FAIL the inspection and you could have to pay a fine. You should always check with your states emission laws.
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      06-30-2013, 04:34 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRuss View Post
Well I picked up some N55 mids the other day. I'm currently running N54 mids with the y-pipe and BMWP exhaust. I intend to install the N55 mids without the y-pipe, but leave the BMWP rear section still on the car.

Do you think the car will be quieter or louder this way? Place your bets now - I should hopefully have the answer tomorrow if all goes well.

Essentially, I'll be adding back in a resonator (by not using the y-pipe) but removing the secondary cats. I'm not sure what suppresses the most noise though, the resonator or the cats?
I think the car will be quieter running the N55 mids without the PE y-pipe and rear PE section. That rear resonator really quiets down the exhaust.

There is a another 1Addict here on Base... Kleach he has a N55 with the PE. He actually though the PE y-pipe made the car too loud on his car bc he is running DP(ie no main cat) so he reinstalled the N55 rear resonator. Now it still is loud but more... errr refined!

For my N54 I will reinstall the N54 secondary cats with the PE y-pipe and PE rear section. I have heard many 135i's with that setup and I really like the way the exhaust burbles and pops at speed.
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