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      02-23-2013, 05:45 AM   #23
frank35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -cj- View Post
Yup. I've noticed this the last few times before I put the car away for the winter.

I wonder if something (cell phone?) is causing the wireless signal to be lost?

Where did you install your transmitter? Mine is in front of the shifter.
to me it does sometimes. You might not ever do it in 3 hours, 10 minutes or so for several times, also with the vehicle stationary, but with the ignition on. I carry it in the ashtray and I socket as the button causes white flashes, and then there are times that if he does not obey pulse, or even goes out for a second.
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      02-23-2013, 05:54 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank35 View Post
I have a problem with the wireless kit. While driving wearing the button with the valve closed or open, from time to time the start button light switched on and off rapidly, which has been according to the instruction manual, a loss of communication and the entire system is installed correctly. someone happened something similar?
I noticed that too on some occasions. If the Akra is in "Code Red" mode, it happens to sometimes flash rapidly to "Code White" mode for a second or so. I think that it's perfectly normal. It's a remotely controlled device, so the signal might briefly suffer from interference/distortion by other signals/sources.

My remote is plugged into the cigarette lighter, and it's the perfect place (discreet and very easy to reach/hide). Hopefully your 1Ms are equipped with a cigarette lighter too. It's a standard feature on EURO spec 1Ms. Fringe benefit: you got a white or red bonus light at night near the gear shift, if the storage plate is not in closed position.

Did you also notice that the circle that lights up on the remote, does not light up fully all around: there are two tiny spots (at 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock - see also the pictures below) which seem a little darker. Probably that's normal too, because the remote is supposed to show a half circle if you use a battery instead of power supplied by the car.

Overally very satisfied with the Akra. However, I do have a cosmetic issue. I noticed that the distance between both pipes on the driver's side is a few millimeter smaller than the distance between both pipes on the passenger's side. The difference is visually noticeable. First I thought this was related to the positioning of the tailpipes. So looked into that option. However, fine-tuning the tailpipes appeared to be to no avail: the root cause appears to be imperfect welding of the exhaust itself, where tailpipes are attached to (the distance between the exhaust pipes [to be distinguished from the tail pipes] appear not to be exactly the same on either side, and tailpipes cannot correct this welding difference). Tweaking the titanium exhaust pipes seems mission impossible and not recommended. Actually, nothing I can do about except for requesting Akra to get me a perfectly aligned exhaust. I think that's not normal so maybe I will contact Akra HQ about it.

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      02-23-2013, 07:33 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artemis View Post
Overally very satisfied with the Akra. However, I do have a cosmetic issue. I noticed that the distance between both pipes on the driver's side is a few millimeter smaller than the distance between both pipes on the passenger's side. The difference is visually noticeable. First I thought this was related to the positioning of the tailpipes. So looked into that option. However, fine-tuning the tailpipes appeared to be to no avail: the root cause appears to be imperfect welding of the exhaust itself, where tailpipes are attached to (the distance between the exhaust pipes [to be distinguished from the tail pipes] appear not to be exactly the same on either side, and tailpipes cannot correct this welding difference). Tweaking the titanium exhaust pipes seems mission impossible and not recommended. Actually, nothing I can do about except for requesting Akra to get me a perfectly aligned exhaust. I think that's not normal so maybe I will contact Akra HQ about it.
Mine is perfect and Akra is known for its quality and good customer service. You should check with them definitely.
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      02-23-2013, 08:56 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparoz View Post
Mine is perfect and Akra is known for its quality and good customer service. You should check with them definitely.
I agree, Artemis for the price you paid you have all the right to expect the best in everything from Akra, don't settle for that, It obviously bothers you somehow.
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      02-23-2013, 01:22 PM   #27
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Above I noted:

"I do have a cosmetic issue. I noticed that the distance between both pipes on the driver's side is a few millimeter smaller than the distance between both pipes on the passenger's side. The difference is visually noticeable. First I thought this was related to the positioning of the tailpipes. So looked into that option. However, fine-tuning the tailpipes appeared to be to no avail: the root cause appears to be imperfect welding of the exhaust itself, where tailpipes are attached to (the distance between the exhaust pipes [to be distinguished from the tail pipes] appear not to be exactly the same on either side, and tailpipes cannot correct this welding difference). Tweaking the titanium exhaust pipes seems mission impossible and not recommended. Actually, nothing I can do about except for requesting Akra to get me a perfectly aligned exhaust. I think that's not normal so maybe I will contact Akra HQ about it."

Below are some pictures taken earlier today to show what I mean. Just to stand clear: the tail pipes are well-aligned when looked upon from above - camera angles can be deceiving - in real life they are okay. The issue is the distance between the tailpipes: the "gap" appears to be a few millimeter different when comparing driver's side with passenger's side.

Any thoughts or suggestions ?

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After almost a month of use: the natural elements are merciless. The Akra is getting a touch of ...well uh... Valencia Orange.

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      02-24-2013, 01:32 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artemis View Post
I noticed that too on some occasions. If the Akra is in "Code Red" mode, it happens to sometimes flash rapidly to "Code White" mode for a second or so. I think that it's perfectly normal. It's a remotely controlled device, so the signal might briefly suffer from interference/distortion by other signals/sources.

My remote is plugged into the cigarette lighter, and it's the perfect place (discreet and very easy to reach/hide). Hopefully your 1Ms are equipped with a cigarette lighter too. It's a standard feature on EURO spec 1Ms. Fringe benefit: you got a white or red bonus light at night near the gear shift, if the storage plate is not in closed position.

Did you also notice that the circle that lights up on the remote, does not light up fully all around: there are two tiny spots (at 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock - see also the pictures below) which seem a little darker. Probably that's normal too, because the remote is supposed to show a half circle if you use a battery instead of power supplied by the car.

Overally very satisfied with the Akra. However, I do have a cosmetic issue. I noticed that the distance between both pipes on the driver's side is a few millimeter smaller than the distance between both pipes on the passenger's side. The difference is visually noticeable. First I thought this was related to the positioning of the tailpipes. So looked into that option. However, fine-tuning the tailpipes appeared to be to no avail: the root cause appears to be imperfect welding of the exhaust itself, where tailpipes are attached to (the distance between the exhaust pipes [to be distinguished from the tail pipes] appear not to be exactly the same on either side, and tailpipes cannot correct this welding difference). Tweaking the titanium exhaust pipes seems mission impossible and not recommended. Actually, nothing I can do about except for requesting Akra to get me a perfectly aligned exhaust. I think that's not normal so maybe I will contact Akra HQ about it.
I also get that sometimes the remote flashes rapidly to "Code White" mode for a second or so and then goes back to Red.
I am curious about the the fact that my remote lights up white or red perfectly, but when I take it out of the cigarette lighter socket, and I push the button, it does activate the valve and the exhaust opens up, but my remote doesn't light up and it's supposed to show a half circle like you said. Anyone else get this problem?
And I also have the same cosmetic issue as you Artemis, and I also have a CF rear diffuser and the slight misalignment with the akra tips is evident. I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow.
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      02-24-2013, 12:35 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diegorst View Post
And I also have the same cosmetic issue as you Artemis, and I also have a CF rear diffuser and the slight misalignment with the akra tips is evident. I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow.
Trying to explore a possible explanation for the difference in "gap" between driver's side tailpipes and passenger's side tailpipes.

In another thread I wrote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artemis View Post
The screw/bolt system of both tailpipes at the driver's side is mounted symmetrically on the right hand side of each tailpipe + the screw/bolt system of both tailpipes at the passenger's side is mounted symmetrically on the left hand side of each tailpipe. Otherwise stated: mine are located symmetrically inwards, "looking" towards the middle of the car, not towards the outside. For cosmetic reasons you are not supposed to see this screw/bolt system when looking at the tailpipes from the side of the car (discreet).
Forum fellow Alpine* seconded that:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpine* View Post
Agreed, here was our 1M with the bolts both facing to the inside of the car chassis.
Checked the installation manual: apparently, Akra suggests to let screws/bolts of both tailpipes face each other (thus not visible from the side, but also not symmetrically facing the inside of the 1M chassis).

Can you check how the bolts of the Akra tailpipes are mounted on your 1M ? Symmetrically facing the inside of the 1M chassis (like on the 1M of Alpine* and on mine) or facing each other as suggested by Akra ?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by diegorst View Post
I also get that sometimes the remote flashes rapidly to "Code White" mode for a second or so and then goes back to Red.
I am curious about the the fact that my remote lights up white or red perfectly, but when I take it out of the cigarette lighter socket, and I push the button, it does activate the valve and the exhaust opens up, but my remote doesn't light up and it's supposed to show a half circle like you said. Anyone else get this problem?
I leave the remote permanently plugged into the 12V cigarette lighter socket (ashtray) as, for me, that's the right spot to keep it and operate it (and to avoid wear and tear + hide from preying eyes). Hence, unfortunately, I cannot comment on its behavior during "unplugged" use. Maybe the battery inside your remote is almost discharged ?

Below are the relevant pages of the Wireless Kit installation manual. As you will note, the lost signal phenomenon is perfectly normal: it flashes to warn you that 'Ground Control' has lost 'Major Tom'. The signal resumes (reconnects) as soon as practically possible (that's also why the remote shifts back to "Code Red" automatically after the lost signal hiccup: 'Ground Control' resumed contact with 'Major Tom' ).

Ah, that interference thing... back in the nineties a friend of mine managed to sometimes set off the car alarm of a car by simply switching on the microwave in her kitchen located next to the driveway where the car was parked. But, hey, also the 1M can set off car alarms, especially in underground car parks where the exhaust rumble echoes, uh, loud and clear.

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      02-25-2013, 04:55 AM   #30
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Checked mine and all pipes are faced towards the centre of the car. So, each set of tail pipes are parallel to each other.
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      03-09-2013, 04:25 AM   #31
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I refer to my post above about the 'gap' difference between the tailpipes (driver side gap is a little smaller than the passenger side gap) (http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=27).

The gap between the tailpipes should be equal on both sides.

I know already of three 1M Akra exhausts who feature exactly the same 'gap' difference phenomenon. Can others also check their 1M Akra ? Do know that it's marginal, but it's there - take a closer look to notice the difference. If this happens to be case (and thus every 1M Akra features the 'gap' difference), than it appears that the Akra factory mold (for shaping the titanium axle back exhaust) was/is not 100% accurately conceived.
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      03-11-2013, 11:32 AM   #32
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The Akra is a very sensitive system, in more ways the one!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Artemis View Post
I refer to my post above about the 'gap' difference between the tailpipes (driver side gap is a little smaller than the passenger side gap) (http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=27).

The gap between the tailpipes should be equal on both sides.

I know already of three 1M Akra exhausts who feature exactly the same 'gap' difference phenomenon. Can others also check their 1M Akra ? Do know that it's marginal, but it's there - take a closer look to notice the difference. If this happens to be case (and thus every 1M Akra features the 'gap' difference), than it appears that the Akra factory mold (for shaping the titanium axle back exhaust) was/is not 100% accurately conceived.
If you recall, I had to readjust my tips; And not just because they looked awfully uneven/ unsymmetrical but also because they were installed incorrectly. Once we removed the tips, switched them around and re-installed I was expecting nothing but perfection... I was wrong again! Although the tips looked great, the right set's inner bolts were slightly touching, so as I would pass 1100 RPM I would get a slight rattle. ONLY @ or while passing 1100 RPM. It really blew my mind how precise it was when the rattle would come on, ONLY 1100RPM!

So unfortunately, the tips had to come off AGAIN, and not because of how they were visually, but because of a sticking rattle! (something I was not even considering to be honest) So a friend with skills/experience and myself readjusted the right side and were able to get rid of the rattle very easily. It could be seen that the bolts were barely touching, but simply/ barely touching is enough to interfere and cause a rattle. With all of this said, it comes down to this: keep messing/ adjusting with your tips until they are perfect because NO body shop/ exhaust shop/ dealer will care about your vehicle more than you do! Let's face it, most shops consider a job all/ well done once the install is complete and the Akra requires a little bit more of that special attention. I am very happy with mine personally and although the tips are torqued down, I check them every few days or so for shifting of the tips or gaps. Hope that helps!



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      03-28-2013, 10:51 PM   #33
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Does anyone have an issue with massive drone at 2500-3000 rpm at highway speeds? Like 4-5th gear. It almost sounds like the remote flap is opening for some reason.

Just me?
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      04-06-2013, 03:56 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artemis View Post
Trying to explore a possible explanation for the difference in "gap" between driver's side tailpipes and passenger's side tailpipes.

In another thread I wrote:

Forum fellow Alpine* seconded that:

Checked the installation manual: apparently, Akra suggests to let screws/bolts of both tailpipes face each other (thus not visible from the side, but also not symmetrically facing the inside of the 1M chassis).

Can you check how the bolts of the Akra tailpipes are mounted on your 1M ? Symmetrically facing the inside of the 1M chassis (like on the 1M of Alpine* and on mine) or facing each other as suggested by Akra ?

Attachment 823511Attachment 823512



I leave the remote permanently plugged into the 12V cigarette lighter socket (ashtray) as, for me, that's the right spot to keep it and operate it (and to avoid wear and tear + hide from preying eyes). Hence, unfortunately, I cannot comment on its behavior during "unplugged" use. Maybe the battery inside your remote is almost discharged ?

Below are the relevant pages of the Wireless Kit installation manual. As you will note, the lost signal phenomenon is perfectly normal: it flashes to warn you that 'Ground Control' has lost 'Major Tom'. The signal resumes (reconnects) as soon as practically possible (that's also why the remote shifts back to "Code Red" automatically after the lost signal hiccup: 'Ground Control' resumed contact with 'Major Tom' ).

Ah, that interference thing... back in the nineties a friend of mine managed to sometimes set off the car alarm of a car by simply switching on the microwave in her kitchen located next to the driveway where the car was parked. But, hey, also the 1M can set off car alarms, especially in underground car parks where the exhaust rumble echoes, uh, loud and clear.

Attachment 823514Attachment 823515
Hi Artemis,
So I finally got a chance to take some pictures. My Akra tips are installed facing each other as suggested by Akra in the installation manual.
The problem I have is that the tips on both sides are not properly aligned with the diffuser, so the gaps are not even on both sides.
Attached Images
     
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      04-06-2013, 12:30 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diegorst View Post
Hi Artemis,
So I finally got a chance to take some pictures. My Akra tips are installed facing each other as suggested by Akra in the installation manual.
The problem I have is that the tips on both sides are not properly aligned with the diffuser, so the gaps are not even on both sides.
Thanks.

The "gap" difference I was referring to, consists of the gap between the tailpipes itself, not the gap between the diffuser and the tailpipes.
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      06-16-2013, 06:07 AM   #36
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My setup = N55 mids + Akra Slip-On Line + wireless kit.

10 'features' experienced so far:
  1. exhaust tips gap: the gap/space between both tips is not identical on either side (narrower at the driver's side), but that seems to be a design issue which cannot be optimized/modified during installation. The exhaust is molded at the Akra factory like that (so the 1M Akra was "born that way"): http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=27;
  2. signal interference: if the Akra operates in "Red Mode" (so-called 'Thunder Mode") it happens to sometimes flash rapidly to "White Mode" for a second or so. Perfectly normal. It's a remotely controlled device, so the signal might briefly suffer from interference/distortion by other signals/sources. This phenomenon is even indicated in the Akra manual: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=29;
  3. heat status difference: the sound seems to differ a little according to the heat status of the N55 mids and exhaust (quite logical): better sound results when all is properly warmed up;
  4. M Mode vs. non M Mode: during city driving I use the M button (M Mode) less often than before, because the typical Akra sound seems to sing more obviously in default non M Mode, during soft but steady acceleration, especially when the engine is still cold (or is it simply an ill-founded impression?). Try with a cold engine in "Red Mode": accelerate slow and smooth towards 3000rpm and then accelerate progressively between 3000rpm and 4500 rpm to trigger the hallmark Akra rasp to kick in. To me that sounds a little better with the M button de-activated. Of course, generally speaking, with a cold engine I prefer not to pass beyond the 4500rpm mark. Possible explanation: as we know, M Mode is only a remap, a more sensitive setting, so you get slightly more rapid from 3000rpm to 5000rpm, and thus offers you slightly less time to fully enjoy the sound;
  5. downhill driving: less obvious Akra sound during downhill driving. However, that's perfectly normal too, as the engine is not as much "under load" than on a flat road surface or during uphill driving; same with the stock set-up (and, generally, any other car): less 'stressed' engine (say, more 'relaxed') = less fumes pushed out = less obvious exhaust sound;
  6. rare backfire bang: backfire = when shifting up and letting off the accelerator, the engine has a moment of running rich (air/fuel ratio too rich in fuel - too much fuel is getting passed through and not all of it is igniting), causing an incomplete burn which causes the fumes to explode in the exhaust system along with an audible pop or bang sound. Well, it happened already a couple of times, though very rarely, that I experienced a little exhaust 'bang' (not just popping or gurgling, but definitely a backfire 'bang' sound). Quite peculiar to experience, though partially inducing/enticing a swift 'hooligan embarrassment' feeling. No idea why this happens or how I triggered this (rare) phenomenon (bad fuel? pushed it?) ...and wondering whether a flame was emitted during the 'bang';
  7. "Red Mode" vs. "White Mode": "Red Mode" (aka "Thunder Mode") is quite intoxicating. The fact that, under "White Mode", the outer exhaust tips do not emit fumes - which is pretty obvious to notice when the engine is not fully warmed up - might refrain from using "White Mode" during city driving, as people might think that the outer tips are fake (qualifying the driver as a phoney or wannabe). However, "White Mode" is a perfect way to discreetly leave premises and return to these (no need to disturb the neighborhood). As well as for cruise control on the highway during long(er) trips: the difference between "Red Mode" and White Mode" is audible, albeit discreet (less bass is a fringe benefit during longer highway trips). Oh, and with the N55 mids + Akra set-up, the notorious 'drone sound' of the 1M stock set-up during highway cruising is only a distant memory;
  8. gurgling: rolling downhill inside a parking lot without using the clutch = gurgling ŕ gogo . Also regularly gurgling when slowing down without touching any pedal. Difficult to get this sound with a 1M stock set-up;
  9. occasional valve rattling: as we know, during the start-up sequence the butterfly valve automatically closes as soon as it got sufficient vacuum (few seconds) ("White Mode"): you hear the discreet metallic sound of the valve closing + the sound/noise getting muzzled. When I drive away (with open windows) uphill inside a closed parking lot in "Red Mode" (valve open), it happens that I sometimes hear some little metallic rattling of the butterfly valve (the sound is more noticeable because you're driving close to walls reflecting all sounds), which seems normal to me (yeah, I check whether everything is properly fastened). Though, never a particular vibration or rattle;
  10. remote storage: it is a quite practical fashion to permanently leave the wireless remote control inside the car, never unplug it and disregard the unpractical suggestion of Akra to plug it in the power socket between the seats. In my book, the cigarette lighter power socket is the perfect storage spot (EURO spec 1M): discreetly hidden from preying eyes, always "at arms' length" ready for mode switching, and without risk of forgetting, damaging or losing it (except if stolen - but it's a pretty useless device without the Akra and cables infrastructure) ((http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=43). Moreover, it appears that the longevity of the wireless battery is limited merely to a poor ± 3 months ([url]http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=851700). And the fate of the cigarette lighter: moved to the power socket between the seats (though I'm a non smoker).
To all forum fellows with an Akra set-up: what are your personal experiences regarding these Akra 'features' ?

Some of my previous posts about the 1M Akra:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=12
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...21&postcount=4
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      08-16-2013, 11:20 PM   #37
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You guys with Akra setups... How loud does your downshift sound? Mine sounds quiet. But if I go WOT it is music to my ears...
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      08-17-2013, 07:13 AM   #38
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You guys with Akra setups... How loud does your downshift sound? Mine sounds quiet. But if I go WOT it is music to my ears...
My downshifts break necks... Do you have the catless down pipes?
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      08-17-2013, 07:24 AM   #39
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Hi Artemis,
So I finally got a chance to take some pictures. My Akra tips are installed facing each other as suggested by Akra in the installation manual.
The problem I have is that the tips on both sides are not properly aligned with the diffuser, so the gaps are not even on both sides.
I had same issue. Resolved with a simple cable tie against the rubber hanger. I can post a photo is you'd like?
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      08-17-2013, 09:05 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by bmw13
Quote:
Originally Posted by -cj- View Post
You guys with Akra setups... How loud does your downshift sound? Mine sounds quiet. But if I go WOT it is music to my ears...
My downshifts break necks... Do you have the catless down pipes?
Yup! Fully catless.

Can you do me a huge favor and tell me how your flap physically looks like while idle +closed and idle +open (red mode)? --- or any one else that's willing.

My flap is fully closed in white mode and fully flat (ie fully parallel) in red mode.


edit: Do you have an upgraded intake or anything?
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      08-18-2013, 09:55 AM   #41
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Update: I played around with the arm on the wireless kit. When the arm was shortest (closest to the car), the car wasn't very loud+I had loud resonation when in red mode.

With the arm in the longest position (towards tail pipes), it was at loudest in red mode, but I had to shorten the length a bit because the flap would resonate when in white mode.

I think I found a sweet spot where I don't get any resonation noise... BUT the car is still very quiet on downshifts. I'm wondering if it's because I added dynamat to that drone area inside the trunk? Made it too quiet inside the cabin now? Also, I have stock airbox... I wonder if it's a restriction? No idea how the car sounds outside... I'd have to trust someone to drive my baby
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      08-18-2013, 03:04 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by -cj- View Post
Update: I played around with the arm on the wireless kit. When the arm was shortest (closest to the car), the car wasn't very loud+I had loud resonation when in red mode.

With the arm in the longest position (towards tail pipes), it was at loudest in red mode, but I had to shorten the length a bit because the flap would resonate when in white mode.
+1, My actuator is not setup properly to. The rod is to long so it's resonating in white mode. I'm going to fix that next week.

I can clearly feel that flap was fully opened and the actuator had some travel left.


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No idea how the car sounds outside... I'd have to trust someone to drive my baby
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      08-19-2013, 06:59 AM   #43
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I eliminated my flap all together... The cold start is really the only thing that truly should be worried about.
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      11-18-2013, 11:25 PM   #44
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+1, My actuator is not setup properly to. The rod is to long so it's resonating in white mode. I'm going to fix that next week.

I can clearly feel that flap was fully opened and the actuator had some travel left.
Did you get around to adjusting it? What setting worked best for you? Did you find that over time, the flapper resonates again?

Also, question for everyone:

When you park your 1M over time, how many days can you go before you lose the stored vacuum in the system/storage tanks? (In other words, how many days can you leave the car off before you get a really loud start, IE: no vacuum on start, causing the flapper to be open... Until vacuum is built up and the sound levels return to normal?)

I'm noticing about 2 MAYBE 3 days max... I'm wondering if that's normal or if I have a vacuum leak somewhere in the system.
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