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      03-19-2013, 02:46 PM   #67
andrey_gta
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I think hes happy with them, they solved the vibration problem. They are not as stiff as the AKG he gave up.

I'm glad to hear that the bushes solve that itch to do something since this could be one of the last mods for me in late 2013
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: e36M lip Wishlist: //M front arm, coils, n55 eng mnt, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff


"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is

Last edited by andrey_gta; 03-19-2013 at 04:46 PM.
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      03-19-2013, 08:16 PM   #68
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Well, I'm sure it'll make another noticable difference once I go to coilovers, but thus far my mods have corrected the most glaring short comings of the stock suspension, especially if it's for a daily driver.

The nice thing is that you can make a pretty big change to the cars handling for a modest investment.

-M3 (TRW) arms -$400
-E92 (or E93 for a vert) FSB - $300
-RSFB -$200
-Alignment - $100
-Front strut pin removal for better camber - Free

So for a grand (if you DIY) you can make a pretty big change to the cars handling and in my opinion really transforms it. Much more so that $1000 set of coilovers, which I definitely don't want on my car. Given I'm not looking to lower the car for a few reasons, such as maintaining stock geometries, it's good for now. In a few months I'll be going to the Ohlins R&T and change out the rear control arms but feel as though I can now wait and get the good stuff instead of rushing in to something less expensive.
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Current--AA FMIC--BMS CP, DCIs, & OCC--ER OC--Fuel-It! Stage 2 LPFP--RB PCV--M3 FSB, RCAs, & FCAs--Whiteline RSFBs, and DBs--Rogue TA's--ER SS brakelines--Stoptech slotted rotors w/Ferodo pads--Apex Arc 8s w/Nitto NT05's--Wavetrac LSD & Ohlins R & T Waiting on install: Nothing...give it a few
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      04-12-2013, 01:16 AM   #69
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Props on the thread SteveAZ, I thought I was on to something uncharted when I found the whiteline "cross member bushings". I'm a subie guy so I've known whiteline forever. Good write-up, follow-up, and overall presentation!!!
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      06-29-2013, 12:51 AM   #70
andrey_gta
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Just want to add another alternative bushing

Nolathane 49202 e8x e9x subframe bushing
http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_...t_number=49202

Only $80/kit woa, but shupping from Australia hurts ( price still less than Whiteline )
http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/cross...ing-49202.html

http://oziespares.com.au/35171-49202.html Cheap source into USA/Canada. Quoted not much more than $100 total
http://www.oziautoparts.com.au/nolat...part-no-49202/

Inserts avail too Nolathane 49203 but shipping makes them cost more compared to Whiteline insert

Nolathane = Whiteline = prothane( some bits)?
http://www.redranger.com.au/
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: e36M lip Wishlist: //M front arm, coils, n55 eng mnt, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff


"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is

Last edited by andrey_gta; 02-24-2014 at 08:59 AM.
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      06-29-2013, 01:18 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
Just want to add another alternative bushing

Nolathane 49202 e8x e9x subframe bushing
http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_...t_number=49202


Inserts avail too Nolathane 49203
Is it fair to expect those will be harder than the M3 rubber bushings?
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      06-29-2013, 01:23 AM   #72
andrey_gta
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I dont know their hardness, Looking at the design its identical to Prothane/Whiteline for the Nolathane.
I assume they match Powerflex yellow compound which is somewhere 70A to 80A. I Also assume //M bushings are less than 95A, sicne powerflex lists 95A an upgrade to 1m
Powerflex purple is around 80A
Powerflex Black is 95A


Another Australian option

SuperPro SPF3946K Subframe to Chassis Mount Bush Kit ( google says 80A-90A range for their bushings)

other superpro bushes:
http://www.superpro.com.au/trade/?vi...istSeries=2224
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: e36M lip Wishlist: //M front arm, coils, n55 eng mnt, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff


"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is

Last edited by andrey_gta; 06-29-2013 at 01:56 AM.
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      06-29-2013, 04:39 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
I dont know their hardness, Looking at the design its identical to Prothane/Whiteline for the Nolathane.
I assume they match Powerflex yellow compound which is somewhere 70A to 80A. I Also assume //M bushings are less than 95A, sicne powerflex lists 95A an upgrade to 1m
Powerflex purple is around 80A
Powerflex Black is 95A


Another Australian option

SuperPro SPF3946K Subframe to Chassis Mount Bush Kit ( google says 80A-90A range for their bushings)

other superpro bushes:
http://www.superpro.com.au/trade/?vi...istSeries=2224
Nice find I see you are also looking for cheaper and easier to install option like I do... Thanks for sharing
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      06-29-2013, 11:13 AM   #74
andrey_gta
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SuperPro seems to be only avail through catalogue dealers, i cant find a price. I assume $150 based on JDM applications
They also seem to have the better reviews and design bushings to be squeal free by incorporating grooves.

EDIT:

Price is available from certain Superpro retailers in USA, I got a quote.
It is more expensive than Whiteline/Nolathane, less expansive than Powerflex Black (or even Powerflex Yellow- Yellow vs Black is about $20 per side delta). The price perhaps is equal to OEM m3 bushings or AKG offerings which hover around $250-300/set from various sorces.

For reference Powerflex Black Subframe Bushings:
(PFR5-420BLK) REAR SUBFRAME FRONT MOUNTING BUSH
(PFR5-422BLK) REAR SUBFRAME REAR MOUNTING BUSH
For reference Powerflex Yellow Subframe Bushings:
(PFR5-420) REAR SUBFRAME FRONT MOUNTING BUSH
(PFR5-422) REAR SUBFRAME REAR MOUNTING BUSH

I am deciding between OEM vs being guinea-pig

EDIT 2:

Got email replies from Mfgs.

Whiteline/Nolathane durometer rating is 75A

SuperPro is 80A
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: e36M lip Wishlist: //M front arm, coils, n55 eng mnt, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff


"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is

Last edited by andrey_gta; 07-07-2013 at 10:54 PM.
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      07-03-2013, 02:26 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveAZ View Post
Steps I took to do this....
...
-Viola, thoroughly grease the bushings ( I lubed the whole thing) and I found it easiest to put the top half in first with the metal bushing installed. Jack up the RSF to seat it (if needed) and then put the lower piece in place, I used a rubber mallet to get it started and then used the RSFB bolt and plate to seat it.
-Rinse and repeat until finished.
Steve, Did you have enough supplied grease? How did you distribute it among the bushes

Evaluating polyuerthane vs OEM and really stumped over this grease aspect.
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: e36M lip Wishlist: //M front arm, coils, n55 eng mnt, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff


"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is
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      07-06-2013, 09:35 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
Steve, Did you have enough supplied grease? How did you distribute it among the bushes

Evaluating polyuerthane vs OEM and really stumped over this grease aspect.
Sorry, just saw this as I don't spend much time on here anymore and just happened to be researching something.

I used lithium marine grease and didn't even attempt to use the packet of grease. As for distribution, I just put on a pair of gloves and slathered them in grease. I have a few thousand miles on them now...no issues at all.

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me so I get a notice or email me directly at stevejsmail....at....gmail.
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2008 AW E88 Auto running on 100% E85
Current--AA FMIC--BMS CP, DCIs, & OCC--ER OC--Fuel-It! Stage 2 LPFP--RB PCV--M3 FSB, RCAs, & FCAs--Whiteline RSFBs, and DBs--Rogue TA's--ER SS brakelines--Stoptech slotted rotors w/Ferodo pads--Apex Arc 8s w/Nitto NT05's--Wavetrac LSD & Ohlins R & T Waiting on install: Nothing...give it a few
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      07-07-2013, 10:53 PM   #77
andrey_gta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveAZ View Post
Sorry, just saw this as I don't spend much time on here anymore and just happened to be researching something.

I used lithium marine grease and didn't even attempt to use the packet of grease. As for distribution, I just put on a pair of gloves and slathered them in grease. I have a few thousand miles on them now...no issues at all.

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me so I get a notice or email me directly at stevejsmail....at....gmail.
Awesome thanks!..

BTW
Nolathane/Whiteline Bushings for sub frame are 75A on durometer

Though you should know.
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: e36M lip Wishlist: //M front arm, coils, n55 eng mnt, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff


"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is
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      07-08-2013, 02:10 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
Awesome thanks!..

BTW
Nolathane/Whiteline Bushings for sub frame are 75A on durometer

Though you should know.
Andrey are you installing them to your car, if so please make some pics and report on how the car feels after...

Thanks
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      07-08-2013, 05:03 PM   #79
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RimasRS
I haven't made my choice yet. I have an excel sheet with prices that I made.
Dont know if i should decide on price or smth else like OEM vs Poly

Nolathane will be equal to Whiteline/Prothane, just red
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: e36M lip Wishlist: //M front arm, coils, n55 eng mnt, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff


"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is
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      07-09-2013, 02:33 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
RimasRS
I haven't made my choice yet. I have an excel sheet with prices that I made.
Dont know if i should decide on price or smth else like OEM vs Poly

Nolathane will be equal to Whiteline/Prothane, just red
And ndo I understand correct that if you go with inserts your rear car body will sit a little higher from the wheels?
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      07-09-2013, 02:47 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RimasRS View Post
And ndo I understand correct that if you go with inserts your rear car body will sit a little higher from the wheels?
The subframe will sit lower than before, so the angle of the camber links may change by about 1 degree. Because the springs attach directly to the body of the car, the car won't be raised at all. It may even be slightly lower if you measure it.
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      07-09-2013, 03:08 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_01 View Post
The subframe will sit lower than before, so the angle of the camber links may change by about 1 degree. Because the springs attach directly to the body of the car, the car won't be raised at all. It may even be slightly lower if you measure it.
aghh yes got it. Thanks for explanation. That is actually even better.
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      07-09-2013, 03:31 AM   #83
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Hi

Anyone tried these?
Original BMW motorsport bushings from Turner

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-10...r-e82-e9x.aspx
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      07-21-2013, 06:19 PM   #84
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Gents, I just completed this job using Whiteline two-piece bushings. Part number KDT917. Essentially the same as the Prothanes. Couple notes for those out there considering the mod.

Decent price, shipped quick: http://www.aftermarketsuspensionpart...sp?prod=KDT917

- This CAN BE a simple job, no joke. You just need a good assortment of tools (two jacks, vice grips, torx sockets (E18) all the usual hand tools. You also need to be good with your jacks, as you'll be manipulating the cars weight to press bushings over a single point... things could get scary QUICK if you or your equipment aren't proficient.

- If you have an aftermarket axleback, you likely do not need to remove it or touch it in any way. Hell, same might go for the oem piece. It just never presented an issue for me in place, and I also installed an M3 rear swaybar. Still enough clearance.

- If you're doing a rear swaybar, do it during this install.

- You do not need a special tool at all. I wedged a large diameter socket (24mm) between the top of each bushing and the underbody of the car (props to the OP!). You then jack the subframe near that point until the rear corner that you're on lifts off the jack by about 1/4-1/2". Heat the metal around the mount until it starts to slip out the bottom, it will take a few minutes. As it slips out the car comes back to rest on the jacks. Jack it higher, bushing is pressed out further, etc etc.

Car feels MUCH more confident and planted. It's entirely noticeable and satisfying. If you have any questions, post up!
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      07-22-2013, 11:16 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfv2 View Post
Gents, I just completed this job using Whiteline two-piece bushings. Part number KDT917. Essentially the same as the Prothanes. Couple notes for those out there considering the mod.

Decent price, shipped quick: http://www.aftermarketsuspensionpart...sp?prod=KDT917

- This CAN BE a simple job, no joke. You just need a good assortment of tools (two jacks, vice grips, torx sockets (E18) all the usual hand tools. You also need to be good with your jacks, as you'll be manipulating the cars weight to press bushings over a single point... things could get scary QUICK if you or your equipment aren't proficient.

- If you have an aftermarket axleback, you likely do not need to remove it or touch it in any way. Hell, same might go for the oem piece. It just never presented an issue for me in place, and I also installed an M3 rear swaybar. Still enough clearance.

- If you're doing a rear swaybar, do it during this install.

- You do not need a special tool at all. I wedged a large diameter socket (24mm) between the top of each bushing and the underbody of the car (props to the OP!). You then jack the subframe near that point until the rear corner that you're on lifts off the jack by about 1/4-1/2". Heat the metal around the mount until it starts to slip out the bottom, it will take a few minutes. As it slips out the car comes back to rest on the jacks. Jack it higher, bushing is pressed out further, etc etc.

Car feels MUCH more confident and planted. It's entirely noticeable and satisfying. If you have any questions, post up!
Are you running run-flats, or did you switch?
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      07-22-2013, 11:59 AM   #86
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I've had a variety of tires prior to the RSFB install, from runflats to hankook v12's to toyo r888's, and now on Bridgestone potenza s-04's on a staggered set of apex ec-7's.
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      08-04-2013, 01:18 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfv2 View Post
Gents, I just completed this job using Whiteline two-piece bushings. Part number KDT917. Essentially the same as the Prothanes. Couple notes for those out there considering the mod.

Decent price, shipped quick: http://www.aftermarketsuspensionpart...sp?prod=KDT917

- This CAN BE a simple job, no joke. You just need a good assortment of tools (two jacks, vice grips, torx sockets (E18) all the usual hand tools. You also need to be good with your jacks, as you'll be manipulating the cars weight to press bushings over a single point... things could get scary QUICK if you or your equipment aren't proficient.

- If you have an aftermarket axleback, you likely do not need to remove it or touch it in any way. Hell, same might go for the oem piece. It just never presented an issue for me in place, and I also installed an M3 rear swaybar. Still enough clearance.

- If you're doing a rear swaybar, do it during this install.

- You do not need a special tool at all. I wedged a large diameter socket (24mm) between the top of each bushing and the underbody of the car (props to the OP!). You then jack the subframe near that point until the rear corner that you're on lifts off the jack by about 1/4-1/2". Heat the metal around the mount until it starts to slip out the bottom, it will take a few minutes. As it slips out the car comes back to rest on the jacks. Jack it higher, bushing is pressed out further, etc etc.

Car feels MUCH more confident and planted. It's entirely noticeable and satisfying. If you have any questions, post up!
Hell yeah! Nice to see somebody was paying attention...nice job!
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Current--AA FMIC--BMS CP, DCIs, & OCC--ER OC--Fuel-It! Stage 2 LPFP--RB PCV--M3 FSB, RCAs, & FCAs--Whiteline RSFBs, and DBs--Rogue TA's--ER SS brakelines--Stoptech slotted rotors w/Ferodo pads--Apex Arc 8s w/Nitto NT05's--Wavetrac LSD & Ohlins R & T Waiting on install: Nothing...give it a few
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      10-06-2013, 01:49 AM   #88
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Nolathane install

I just installed the nolathane bushing kit in my car. Looks exactly like the whiteline kit and the best thing is I was able to get it shipped with a rear diff bushing kit for under 170. Some things to add on the install:
I didn't have to disconnect any brakelines, just unclipped the sensor cables and the ebrake cable. I didn't have to undo the rear struts. I have a berk street axle back and I had to undo the bolts holding it to the mid pipe to get a little extra clearance. It's a fairly easy install, the bushing goo is messy after you heat them. I can see how it can be tricky manipulating the jacks I think it's a simple enough install that you might as well put in the work for it than just putting in the bushing inserts.
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