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      03-01-2013, 07:02 PM   #89
JB4-335
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I recall that gaffa tape
LOL!! It was actually duct tape but good memory Ian.

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Isn't the HVAC filter there to filter the air coming into the AC? Does it make any difference to the smell etc with it off?

I guess it would be possible to run with the cowl off and HVAC on right?
Correct. There is a slight oil smell that can occasionally be smelt in the cabin but doesn't bother me.

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I think that messing with the thermostat is a bad idea. Car will take longer to warm up and cold engines get damaged! There seems to be this obsession that 120C is too hot, which it isn't. 120c is optimal for these cars as per BMW engineering.
Cold engines will wear quick if the car is being pushed hard especially with a tune. I agree 120C isn't too hot if your not driving the car hard but I would prefer it to be between 100-110C. BMW also has engineered a lot of things on these car's that do not perform half as good as aftermarket cheaper parts.

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"run flats" are also "optimal" by BMW as well.... what's your point? Just because something is "engineered by BMW", does not mean it is the end all be all. Many things have room for improvement.
Ain't that the truth.

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I will! In fact... now that you mention it... I do every day. About 3-4 times a day. For about 10 minutes each time when the car is warming up!

I live in Florida. The only "cold oil" is on cold starts. As long as there is little to no load on an engine during warm up, there is an extremely, if not nearly 0% chance, of engine damage due to lack of lubrication from the viscosity of "cold oil".

I seriously doubt the fact that the oil taking an extra minute, or two, would have any adverse side effects on the engines longevity, or the performance. In fact, there is a reason oil has varying viscosity from cold start to full engine temp.

Oil has come a long way... and the fact that BMW "engineered" their cars, and oil, to last 15k miles between oil changes shows just how much variance and abuse the oil and motor can handle.
Very well said.
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      03-01-2013, 08:15 PM   #90
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A local BMW indie guy, Eurotune, says not to let your car warm up by idling before driving, he says to drive it straight away. Obviously you don't redline it out the driveway but he did stress "warming it without load is BAD". The old school warm up was for cars that had much looser tolerances than modern cars. Air cooled Porsches come to mind; a neighbour used to warm up his 911 while he finished his morning cuppa. Pretty effective as an alarm clock.
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      03-01-2013, 09:27 PM   #91
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A local BMW indie guy, Eurotune, says not to let your car warm up by idling before driving, he says to drive it straight away. Obviously you don't redline it out the driveway but he did stress "warming it without load is BAD". The old school warm up was for cars that had much looser tolerances than modern cars. Air cooled Porsches come to mind; a neighbour used to warm up his 911 while he finished his morning cuppa. Pretty effective as an alarm clock.
I agree to an extent....

What you should do is start the car, wait 1 minute, then drive the car normal/very low load/not much throttle pressure until the car is at operating temps. You don't want to start the car and drive it right that second, but you also don't want to idle it for 10 minutes in the driveway. The idea behind the car at a cold start revving higher, and dumping more gas, is for emissions. It is there for the purpose of heating up the catalytic converters quicker so they can work efficiently. The reason I say wait 60 seconds after a cold start is because you have allowed enough lubrication on little load to coat all the parts, and then when you drive on low load you will actually warm the car up faster. But I am sure this is what the indie guy meant.
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      03-01-2013, 09:28 PM   #92
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Does anyone know, BTW, where I can get one of these parts? It seems BMS is out of stock. Thanks.

Last edited by 1911A145; 03-01-2013 at 11:09 PM.
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      03-01-2013, 11:00 PM   #93
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Does anyone know, BTW, where I can get one of these parts? It seems BMW is out of stock. Thanks.
You mean BMS? Terry said they'll be back in stock soon.
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      03-01-2013, 11:09 PM   #94
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You mean BMS? Terry said they'll be back in stock soon.
Yes... lmao. I was on my phone when I was typing. oops! haha
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      03-05-2013, 04:36 PM   #95
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Got an email from Terry this morning saying the thermostats are back in stock.
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      04-26-2013, 09:06 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1911A145 View Post
I will! In fact... now that you mention it... I do every day. About 3-4 times a day. For about 10 minutes each time when the car is warming up!

I live in Florida. The only "cold oil" is on cold starts. As long as there is little to no load on an engine during warm up, there is an extremely, if not nearly 0% chance, of engine damage due to lack of lubrication from the viscosity of "cold oil".

I seriously doubt the fact that the oil taking an extra minute, or two, would have any adverse side effects on the engines longevity, or the performance. In fact, there is a reason oil has varying viscosity from cold start to full engine temp.

Oil has come a long way... and the fact that BMW "engineered" their cars, and oil, to last 15k miles between oil changes shows just how much variance and abuse the oil and motor can handle.

^ completely agree as im in florida as well tampa to be exact and traffic driving on top of the constant florida heat deff gets the oil temps up there i just placed my order for this even if its a couple degrees lower thats fine with me worth the $50 ,
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      04-26-2013, 09:46 PM   #97
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Wow... I wonder why BMW didn't think of this to reduce oil temps? ... Hang on, it is clear to see why!

Get an oil cooler upgrade rather, than this IMO
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      04-26-2013, 11:59 PM   #98
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Im seeing even cooler oil temps now since I recently switched my Mtech front bar to the M3 bar with ducts and now air flows directly through my cooler now compared to the fog light set up that's on the Mtech. I'm sure the cooler temps are also a contributing factor.
Took the car for s long drive a few nights ago while ambient temps were around 14 degrees and the oil temp was around 95, maybe just under. After about 5 wide open throttle runs it remained the same.
I don't normally give my car a hard time until oil temps are around 95-100 anyway so if I've been driving for more than 20-25 minutes and the oil isn't getting warmer than 95 I'm comfortable with that as my operating temp.
If the temps get a lot cooler and I find my oil isn't reaching 95 on a daily basis I will return the factory setup just for the winter months.
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      05-02-2013, 01:28 PM   #99
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okay just installed mine and i must say theres is a significant difference (keep in mind im also in florida) and off topic but also when i installed this switched to 5w-40 because of my car eating oil , and an as far as i can tell right now it runs alot better and cooler!
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      05-02-2013, 05:52 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazz View Post
A local BMW indie guy, Eurotune, says not to let your car warm up by idling before driving, he says to drive it straight away. Obviously you don't redline it out the driveway but he did stress "warming it without load is BAD". The old school warm up was for cars that had much looser tolerances than modern cars. Air cooled Porsches come to mind; a neighbour used to warm up his 911 while he finished his morning cuppa. Pretty effective as an alarm clock.
it's especially true for N52 motors, if you idle while warming up you get hydraulic lifter noise worsening

driving straight away and NEVER idle warming it makes it almost never occur.. any cold idle and it's incredibly loud.
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      05-03-2013, 07:23 PM   #101
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it's especially true for N52 motors, if you idle while warming up you get hydraulic lifter noise worsening

driving straight away and NEVER idle warming it makes it almost never occur.. any cold idle and it's incredibly loud.
True.
BMW 6's are notorious for their lifter noise.
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      05-09-2013, 01:26 AM   #102
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hey buddy what is needed to take off the screws what tools?
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I took my car out last night to run some logs with the JB4 to see what this DCT can do and after at least 10-12 wide open the throttle runs from 2nd-5th gear the oil wouldn't go past 110. The car was already warm when I took it out and temps were about 22 degrees. The other thing I noticed was after each WOT run the oil temp stayed the same whereas it would normally increase by 2-3 degrees by the end of the run.

I've been running around town most of the day today in 26 degrees and the oil has been between 100-110. I know this thermostat is working cause like I mentioned earlier this car would have been sitting on 120 most of today.

BTW: The DCT takes a little getting use to but it's a lot of fun. Makes the car feel weightless compared to my previous car.
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      06-01-2013, 03:22 PM   #103
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Bms Vs Bypass

Why do we need the BMS LOW TEMP THERMO when it is so simple to just bypass by putting spring in front of thermo rod?????
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      06-29-2013, 04:29 PM   #104
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Why do we need the BMS LOW TEMP THERMO when it is so simple to just bypass by putting spring in front of thermo rod?????
I was wondering about the same thing myself. Have you done this already?
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