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      02-28-2013, 11:46 PM   #1
AJundEinser
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Dillema: Which wheels? V710? Arc 8? or Alufelgens?

I need traction...

Looking for a light and strong 18 inch wheel. Which is your favorite? Note: 2008 135i M-sport.

I NEED a wide rear tire as I am having trouble keeping traction before 3rd gear. Car is occasionally tracked... let me know what offsets/camber/spacers/tire sizes have worked best!

photos, setup info, and rubbing/rolling experiences are appreciated (I'm not trying to roll until I get coils, so lets just assume the sport suspension stays...)

Thanks!
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      03-01-2013, 05:29 AM   #2
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The obvious would be the Arc 8's. Light, somewhere around 18lbs each wheel. Strong, because of the flow-formed process thingy. Then, due to its offset, you can run 235/265 without any modification. Cheers!

Also, I've been told that there's going to be a group buy this March, so wait for it.
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      03-01-2013, 05:47 AM   #3
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Arc8s seem to be just what you're looking for.

Alufelgen cs7s would also do the trick and you can fit a 265/35 onto the rear wheel no problem.
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      03-03-2013, 01:55 AM   #4
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Thanks. I am pretty sure I am gonna go the Arc-8 route. Does anyone have input on the Forgestar F14?

You guys def simplified my thought process. i also found a good page, 1010tires.com that helps to find largest tire fitment with the most traction while understanding the speedometer difference and other factors related to diameter change and whatnot.
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      03-03-2013, 08:11 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dom1nique
Thanks. I am pretty sure I am gonna go the Arc-8 route. Does anyone have input on the Forgestar F14?

You guys def simplified my thought process. i also found a good page, 1010tires.com that helps to find largest tire fitment with the most traction while understanding the speedometer difference and other factors related to diameter change and whatnot.
I've been in the same dilemma before, and the explanation of Eddy from APEX helped me a lot.
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=378096&page=2
Read the post #16.
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      03-03-2013, 02:19 PM   #6
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Ah i love that description... Thanks Mae. Should I try to stick to the stock offset or can I go more concave? They offer many offsets for 8.5F 9.5R setups... I have stock brakes and of course am just looking for a wide and flush setup.
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      03-03-2013, 02:38 PM   #7
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I'll be replacing my Forgestars very soon. They weren't bad, but the finish did chip a lot and one of them cracked (which was an expensive repair) and another is bent. I'll probably be going V710s.
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      03-03-2013, 02:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dom1nique
Ah i love that description... Thanks Mae. Should I try to stick to the stock offset or can I go more concave? They offer many offsets for 8.5F 9.5R setups... I have stock brakes and of course am just looking for a wide and flush setup.
Offsets in our car are very limited. I would suggest to go with what APEX recommends, such as the +45 8.5, +62 9.5. You wouldn't have any problem fitting 235/265.
If you want more rubber, you probably could, but some modification needs to be done.
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      03-03-2013, 11:28 PM   #9
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Quote:
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I'll be replacing my Forgestars very soon. They weren't bad, but the finish did chip a lot and one of them cracked (which was an expensive repair) and another is bent. I'll probably be going V710s.
Finish was garbage and 2 out of 4 had critical failure?

What's your definition of a bad wheel?
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      03-04-2013, 12:04 AM   #10
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You should go Arc 8. I would take a rotary forged wheel over any gravity castes wheels. They are stronger.

I have had a set of forge stars and they were great. No issues in finish or bending/cracks.
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      03-04-2013, 09:26 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Finish was garbage and 2 out of 4 had critical failure?

What's your definition of a bad wheel?
It's more a matter of miles and conditions. I don't expect any 18" wheel with low profile tires to hold up perfectly for +50k miles on north east roads. Even the stock wheels bend and crack.
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      03-04-2013, 11:28 AM   #12
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Quote:
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It's more a matter of miles and conditions. I don't expect any 18" wheel with low profile tires to hold up perfectly for +50k miles on north east roads. Even the stock wheels bend and crack.
Try something made well, ie 8000 ton forged.
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      03-04-2013, 11:56 AM   #13
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If you get VMR's, you will have to deal with their issues on keeping stock, and long waits to get the wheels you want. They almost NEVER have what you want, then they talk you into settling for something else. Worst experience I have ever had buying wheels.

I would go the Alufegen's and go the 265 tire route.
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      03-04-2013, 12:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Also, I've been told that there's going to be a group buy this March, so wait for it.
Oh really?!?!?!
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      03-04-2013, 12:04 PM   #15
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19" Alufelgens SF-71 if you want the best looking of the CSL rep wheels. Arc's if you want the most functional and biggest tire size you can fit.
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      03-04-2013, 12:39 PM   #16
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19" Alufelgens SF-71 if you want the best looking of the CSL rep wheels. Arc's if you want the most functional and biggest tire size you can fit.
+1
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      03-04-2013, 12:46 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
Try something made well, ie 8000 ton forged.
Forged wheels bend also. Doesn't sound like you know what you are talking about. Forgestars are spun forged and stronger the cast and you can order them in custom offsets.

I use them on the track. They are light and strong. The only down side I see is the need for centering rings. If I were to get another set of track wheels it would be the ARC-8's for that reason alone. Although I do think they are ugly compared to the F-14's.
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      03-04-2013, 02:52 PM   #18
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Forged wheels bend also. Doesn't sound like you know what you are talking about. Forgestars are spun forged and stronger the cast and you can order them in custom offsets.

I use them on the track. They are light and strong. The only down side I see is the need for centering rings. If I were to get another set of track wheels it would be the ARC-8's for that reason alone. Although I do think they are ugly compared to the F-14's.
"spun forged" is a marketing term... for wheels that are cast

Funny (less so for people that fall for it), but true.

Stock wheels are also not strong on the scale of wheels, so them cracking (not common) doesn't mean yours are well made. Just that both aren't.

The wheel finish coming off is also just a sign they were poorly made.

Top quality wheels are 8000 ton forged. There's only three forges in the world capable of that, and all of them are located in Japan-- BBS, Champion (who makes wheels for RAC), and Volk.

"spun forged" is cast, albeit one of the better casting processes. It's what BBS uses on the CHs and the e46 ZCP wheels. Because it's not as strong as forging, they make up for it by using more metal. E.g. BBS CH's are 6-12 lbs heavier for a given size than BBS RG-Rs.

Also, any wheel you can order "custom offsets" for means it's not optimized for any design... so I'd look at that as a downside. Better to get a wheel that's specced for and optimized for a given offset.

Wheels are, and always have been, choose 2 of 3 (if you get a good wheel-- bad wheels get you less than 2 of 3):
1) Light
2) Cheap
3) Strong
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      03-04-2013, 09:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Forged wheels bend also. Doesn't sound like you know what you are talking about. Forgestars are spun forged and stronger the cast and you can order them in custom offsets.

I use them on the track. They are light and strong. The only down side I see is the need for centering rings. If I were to get another set of track wheels it would be the ARC-8's for that reason alone. Although I do think they are ugly compared to the F-14's.
You are trying to argue that Forgestars are forged wheels and you think I'm the one who doesn't know what I'm talking about?

Also, your 19" "track setup".
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      03-04-2013, 09:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obioban View Post
"spun forged" is a marketing term... for wheels that are cast

Funny (less so for people that fall for it), but true.

Stock wheels are also not strong on the scale of wheels, so them cracking (not common) doesn't mean yours are well made. Just that both aren't.

The wheel finish coming off is also just a sign they were poorly made.

Top quality wheels are 8000 ton forged. There's only three forges in the world capable of that, and all of them are located in Japan-- BBS, Champion (who makes wheels for RAC), and Volk.

"spun forged" is cast, albeit one of the better casting processes. It's what BBS uses on the CHs and the e46 ZCP wheels. Because it's not as strong as forging, they make up for it by using more metal. E.g. BBS CH's are 6-12 lbs heavier for a given size than BBS RG-Rs.

Also, any wheel you can order "custom offsets" for means it's not optimized for any design... so I'd look at that as a downside. Better to get a wheel that's specced for and optimized for a given offset.

Wheels are, and always have been, choose 2 of 3 (if you get a good wheel-- bad wheels get you less than 2 of 3):
1) Light
2) Cheap
3) Strong
I agree with most of what you say, but there are a lot more than three 8000 ton closed-die presses in the world. Maybe there are only three companies in the world doing it that way, but Aluminum is relatively easy to forge, so the tonnage on the forge doesn't necessarily equate to the quality of the wheel.
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      03-04-2013, 10:39 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obioban View Post
"spun forged" is a marketing term... for wheels that are cast

Funny (less so for people that fall for it), but true.

Stock wheels are also not strong on the scale of wheels, so them cracking (not common) doesn't mean yours are well made. Just that both aren't.

The wheel finish coming off is also just a sign they were poorly made.

Top quality wheels are 8000 ton forged. There's only three forges in the world capable of that, and all of them are located in Japan-- BBS, Champion (who makes wheels for RAC), and Volk.

"spun forged" is cast, albeit one of the better casting processes. It's what BBS uses on the CHs and the e46 ZCP wheels. Because it's not as strong as forging, they make up for it by using more metal. E.g. BBS CH's are 6-12 lbs heavier for a given size than BBS RG-Rs.

Also, any wheel you can order "custom offsets" for means it's not optimized for any design... so I'd look at that as a downside. Better to get a wheel that's specced for and optimized for a given offset.

Wheels are, and always have been, choose 2 of 3 (if you get a good wheel-- bad wheels get you less than 2 of 3):
1) Light
2) Cheap
3) Strong
I forgot to add, there is such a thing a spin forging. It is similar to/also called roll forming, contour rolling or ring rolling. It is not a closed die forging process, but it is a forming process for aluminum wheels and it is not a casting process.

http://www.teamdynamicsracing.com/pr...ng-process.htm
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      03-04-2013, 11:07 PM   #22
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Quote:
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You are trying to argue that Forgestars are forged wheels and you think I'm the one who doesn't know what I'm talking about?

Also, your 19" "track setup".
Who said they were forged? Do you think the price might have given that away? I simply said they are stronger then straight cast, oh and that's what the manufacturing process is called. What I'm countering is your lame assertion that the reason his wheels bent was because they were not "8000 ton forged" . Plenty of people here will tell you that Arc-8's and foregestars stand up to plenty of abuse.

Before you start making assertions about a wheel not being well made perhaps you should educate yourself, or at least provide the evidence or experience you have to back it up. But I doubt you'll do that seeing as you come across like a fan boy anyways.

And where did you get 19" from? My forgestars are 18" 8.5 et 45 and 9.5 et56. Now my 2 piece modular forged wheels are 19".
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