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      07-08-2013, 02:37 PM   #1
TUN3D
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TUN3D 135i build (1M Conversion)

Thanks to ilikebmxbikes, Sk8fe, Venom, EINSER M, Mybad135, Tony135, uberschnell, and a few others for answering my questions in regards to this project. Not reinventing the wheel here, just another boring 1M conversion -- haha! Hopefully some of the pics will help the next guy in line -- so lets get to it.

============================================
PREFACE
============================================

This is the goal. I want to get as close to this as possible...

============================================
UPDATE 10/10/14 - REAR RELOCATION PARTS/BATTERY/ETC.
============================================

Here's a view of the Negative Battery Cable & Adapter For IBS. The adapter is needed if you order this cable...


Battery is almost there. The tire repair kit in this image is from a different car. Cost me $15 on eBay. After buying it, I found a guy in Germany that had a brand new 1M OEM repair kit (with the yellow cap). Once I get that in the next week or two...the battery project will be complete...


The devil is in the details. So I was laying back enjoying my work and had the trunk flap up when I noticed that it has specific indentations for the 135i battery and tray position. Would love to change it but, once again, the online catalogs seem to only have the parts for the 135i. I'll look into it...

============================================
UPDATE 10/07/14 - REAR RELOCATION PARTS/BATTERY/ETC.
============================================

Waiting on the proper negative battery cable to connect the IBS...


Here's a good shot of where I modified the line...


This is the "Scavenge air line" that needs to be modified. All other lines that lead to the canister, once replaced, are a perfect fit. There are two large clips that secure the line to the chasis. I cut the line at the second fitting (closests to the canister), added a 3/8 x 3/8 barbed brass coupling, and attached a section of non-kink flexible line. It's a really curvy weave coming down from the fitting, so you need something really flexible that won't kink. The fitting that goes into the canister can be removed and adapted to the flex-line without any problems...




After...


Before...







============================================
UPDATE 09/18/14 - PAINT
============================================










============================================
UPDATE 09/17/14 - REAR FENDERS
============================================



Before the fender rolling...


After the fender rolling...









============================================
UPDATE 09/15/14 - REAR FENDERS
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============================================
UPDATE 09/13/14 - REAR FENDERS
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UPDATE 09/12/14 - REAR FENDERS
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============================================
UPDATE 09/11/14 - REAR FENDERS
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============================================
UPDATE 09/10/14 - REAR FENDERS
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============================================
UPDATE 09/09/14 - REAR FENDERS
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============================================
UPDATE 09/08/14 - REAR FENDERS
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============================================
UPDATE 09/05/14 - REAR FENDERS
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============================================
UPDATE 09/04/14 - REAR FENDERS
============================================

Decided to cut right below the body line. Less factory spot welding points to remove...

























============================================
UPDATE 08/27/14 - HORNS PART 2 (RELOCATION)
============================================

Lets start off by understanding the difference. 135i's have both horns (high/low pitch) located inside the left fender. 1M's moved their horns underneath each headlight to accommodate the PPK2's left radiator and air-duct...


If you're doing the PPK2 and relocating the horns according to their instructions, here is where they go. Keep in mind that you will have to drill the bumper carrier...
Note: If you buy the PPK2 parts individually (like I did), then you WILL NOT be able to buy the hardware for relocating the horns from BMW. The retrofit/relocation hardware comes with the kit. There are no individual part numbers for the brackets themselves. If you have better luck finding them, let me know...


Here's a live view of where BMW wants you to put the horns...


The bumper carrier already comes with the necessary holes to relocate the horns...
Note: You'll have to remove the "tie-wrap clips(s)" that go inside these holes. They are used to mount the relocation brackets...


I created this outline of what the 1M's horn bracket/mount looks like. Unfortunately, it's nowhere to be found. Both the dealer and all online catalogs only offer the 135i's dual bracket/mount. The solution -- we make or buy our own brackets...


To remove the horns, take out these two nuts...


The bracket consists of two bolts and two rivets. To access the top rivet, you will need to remove the headlight...


Drill out the rivets and hammer out the stubs...


If you're moving the horns to 1M location(s), this is why you can't keep the high-pressure nozzles...


After removing the extension, this is what you're left with. It's the perfect length for the new horn position...


I bought some "temporary" brackets and drilled two 5/16 holes on each leg. You can reuse the same washer & nut from the old bracket. For the bumper carrier, I bought 1/4" x 20 x 3/4 bolts, washers, and nuts...


Here is the temporary solution I came up with -- mounted...


A rare view of the back-side...


Took me a while, but this is the bracket I ordered. I wanted something professionally done. The dimensions are 2.94" x 1.7" with 5/16 holes. Ordered it from www.hardwareworld.com. Item #9W78U6, UPC: 886780005844...


Here are the new brackets. Finish looks awesome -- perfect clearance. Couldn't be happier...


More pics of the final product...
Note: To be continued. I will update the hose installation in the next day or so...

============================================
UPDATE 08/27/14 - HORNS PART 1 (HEADLIGHT-WASHERS & TANK)
============================================
Note: After a shit-ton of research, here's a little write up in regards to relocating your horns and removing the headlight washers. These two go hand-in-hand as you will see. If you're asking yourself why this needs to be done, checkout the "DUCTS & PPK2", "HEADLIGHT-WASHERS", & "LIGHT BRACKETS" updates.


This is what you need to remove in order to relocate the horns:
1) Hose, headlight cleaning system.
2) Housing, high-pressure nozzle(s).
3) Tie-wrap clips (on the back of the bumper carrier).
4) Horn electrical extension.
Note: To completely remove the system, you also need to remove the pump and it's connecting hose which runs underneath the right headlight. Removing the items above will allow you to mount the horns, however, you still need to cap the tank. Please see the solution below...


If you're not running any of the headlight nozzle systems, the line needs to be capped -- either at the pump or light bracket...


I disconnected/removed the pump & main line that feeds the light washers. Turned on the car and checked for codes/errors -- none! Tested the main washers -- perfect. Plugged the tank -- done! I also zip-tied the connection to keep it from banging around. For the plug, I used a 1/2" Poly Alloy Test Plug from http://www.apolloflow.com. Item #APXPAP1250PK. You can pick these up at Home Depot or Lowes.

============================================
UPDATE 08/25/14 - REAR FENDERS
============================================

One down. BTW, if you live in an apartment -- you might want to get it delivered straight to the body shop...


Right side...


Check out the arches...


More of the arches...

============================================
UPDATE 08/17/14
============================================


















============================================
UPDATE 08/10/14 - SHIELDS
============================================

Here are the underhood shields side-by-side...

============================================
UPDATE 08/10/14 - FRONT WHEEL COVERS
============================================

Here are the front wheel covers side-by-side...

============================================
UPDATE 08/09/14 - LIGHT BRACKETS
============================================
Note: In this section, I show you how to transfer your high-pressure nozzles onto 1M light-brackets. Please read the "HEADLIGHT-WASHERS" update above before transferring these -- no sense in working twice.


Headlight brackets are identical, with the exception of the fender mounting points. 1M mounting points are much smaller, less pointy and different in shape...


Here is the side-by-side view of the pieces we're transferring...


Grab a Phillips screwdriver and apply lots of pressure to the center pin until it pops. Turn over the bracket and pull it out with some pliers...


Once the pins are out, with your finger, gently work the expanding clips and make then as as possible. At this point, you should be able to simply pull out the entire washer assembly. If its not easily coming out, work the expanding clips a little more. The clips are pretty fragile, so DO NOT go to work on them with pliers -- you'll break them...


With the washer assembly out, line up the clips onto the new bracket. Grab your pliers and gently push them thru. Insert the pin with your finger and you're done...

============================================
UPDATE 08/09/14 - HEADLIGHT-WASHERS
============================================

135i headlight-washers become obsolete with a 1M bumper. 1M's removed the bulky high-pressure nozzle(s) and replace it with a much smaller spray nozzle(s). That said, and in most cases, high-pressure nozzles need to be removed.

REMOVE the high-pressure nozzle system if:
1) You ordered the 1M bumper WITH nozzle openings AND you're buying the 1M nozzle system.
2) #1 is true AND you're doing a PPK2 AND you're relocating the horns to 1M location(s).
3) #1 is true you're relocating the horns to 1M location(s).
Note: If you ordered the bumper with nozzle openings, I'm assuming that you're also buying the 1M nozzle system. In this case, there is just no need to keep those bulky high-pressure nozzles attached to the light-brackets.

KEEP the high-pressure nozzle system if:
1) You ordered the 1M front bumper WITHOUT nozzle openings AND they are coded out/disabled.
2) #1 is true AND you're doing a PPK2 AND you're relocating the horns according to the PPK2 installation manual, non-1M location(s).
3) #1 is true AND you're not doing a PPK2 AND you're not relocating the horns.
Note: If you ordered the bumper without nozzle openings, and don't want to get rid of the 135i's native high-pressure nozzle system, make sure they are coded out/disabled. You certainly don't want them popping up, banging against the inside of the bumper, and spraying washer-fluid inside the bumper. In this case, the only time where you'll need to get rid of them is if you relocate the horns to 1M location(s). To see horn positioning options, please see the "HORNS" update.

============================================
UPDATE 09/03/14 - DUCTS & PPK2 PART-2
============================================

Note: Please read the "Notes & Updates" section (associated with these parts), prior to ordering. It's important to understand some of the issues/risks involved in ordering the PPK2 " La Carte". For safe measure -- ordering the "Complete Kit" (although pricey), is probably the way to go and overall best approach. Whichever route you take, this post will certainly help you in terms of understanding the parts involved and the installation process...

Here's the list. Thanks again to Dackelone, Qbrozen, scottn2retro, Pig Farmer, zx10guy, gregthegr8, owen2001 & a few others that initially sparked up the conversation and generated the parts list and documentation.

Complete Kit
11122184495 - Performance Power Kit (*1)

Required Parts ( La Carte):
17117602241 - Radiator L
51647154545 - Bumper Carrier Bracket L (*2)
07147144953 - Hex Nut With Plate, M8-Z2 > Qty. 2
17217540030 - Radiator/Oil Cooler Mount
07119903995 - Hex Bolt, M6X20-U2-8.8
64219222129 - Heater Hose
17127602294 - Coolant Hose
17427604021 - 850w Fan shroud (*3)

Optional Parts ( La Carte):
64216963248 - Heater Hose Clamp (*4)
=======================

Notes & Updates:
(*1) This product fits 31 vehicle variants. BMW 1 Series (E82,E88): 1 models, 8 variants between 2009 and 2012. BMW 3 Series (E21,E30,E36,E46,E90,E91,E92,E93): 2 models, 23 variants between 2008 and 2012. In other words, consult your dealer and do some RESEARCH prior to ordering. Make sure you're getting the correct kit for your vehicle.
(*2) I had a big issue ordering this bracket La Carte. Please see the pics and notes below for details. In a nutshell, the bolts on the bracket are too short and don't allow you to mount/secure the radiator. From my understanding, the "Complete Kit" comes with the proper bracket/bolt length.
(*3) Initially, I thought you could successfully complete the PPK2 install WITHOUT the 850w fan/shroud. Even though you CAN install the "Coolant Hose" with the standard 600w fan shroud -- I STRONGLY recommend against it. For starters, if not positioned properly, the hose will rub/grind against the pulley's and/or belt(s) system. Not only WILL it damage the hose, it can potentially damage the pulley's as well. This happens (in part) because the TWO clips securing the hose to the fan shroud, don't line up properly. Unless you bend and modify the "Coolant Hose" to fit the 600w shroud -- It simply won't work. The "Coolant Hose" is SPECIFICALLY shaped/designed to work with the 850w shroud. Anyhow, the good news is that the 850w fan/shroud goes in like butter. The electrical connection is plug-n-play. After testing -- it all works properly. I bring this up because the PPK2 kit comes with an upgraded relay and wiring harness to support the larger 850w fan. Other members have been running the larger 850w fan (without the beefed-up wiring harness) for about a year without ANY problems. Still too early to determine the long term implications (if any) -- so do this at your own risk. Wouldn't hurt to consult with someone with a better understanding of the 135's electrical system.
(*4) Mine came off when I removed the hose. Didn't break it, but just in case. Only costs about $1.


Coolant Hose...


After all the parts came in, everything seemed to be running pretty smooth until I did a little test fitting. I noticed that the bumper carrier bracket bolts did not go all the way thru the radiator bolt guides. That's a pretty big issue considering the bolts are spot welded onto the bracket. I did some research and made sure I had the right part # -- everything checked out. I immediately called BMW to see if there was some kind of part modification/update -- nothing...


The "temporary" solution -- remove the bolts. I stopped by a machine shop really quick, cut out the bolts, and hammered thru the holes -- perfect. Threw a little flat-black paint on it -- good to go. This basically allows you to use whatever bolts you like...
Note: This is the big problem I referred to in the "Notes & Updates" above. Still waiting to hear back from BMW...

To install the new bumper carrier bracket:

1) Remove the left headlight and headlight bracket.
2) Remove the (8) bolts holding the bumper carrier. Use a long socket extension.
3) On the left side of the inter-cooler, find the radiator mount. Push the tab on the mount to release.
4) Remove the upper "long" bolt holding the radiator support. Directly above the headlight.
5) Pull the radiator support forward, from the left side, to free up the bumper carrier bracket.


Here's the radiator mount tab you have to release...


Here's what the radiator mount and 135i left bumper carrier bracket looks like when removed...


In the left image, you'll see the upper "long" bolt that needs to be removed. Directly above the headlight. In the right image, you'll see the separation needed to remove the bumper carrier bracket...


For the radiator mount, it's a snug fit. Doesn't look like it will work at first but it does. Once you insert it, grab a flat-head screwdriver and rotate it. There's is a specific groove on the mounts that allows you do do this without damaging the piece...


Bolt up and you're good to go...


Back-side view...


Perfect fit...


Here are some diagrams showing you how the PPK2 hoses run. The "Heater Hose" runs from the firewall, along the chargepipe to the new radiator...
Note: It's best to drain the radiator before you do this. If not, you're gonna have coolant all over the place. I'll post some pics on how to do this shortly...


The firewall "Heater Hose" connecting point is underneath the intake -- it's the one on the bottom. Pop the clip and pull it out. You have plenty of room and leverage to do it. These connectors are a little tough so be persistent...


Once you disconnect the "Heater Hose", just weave it out. To insert the new one, retrace your steps...


BY FAR, this is the most difficult part of the install. Room is very limited and the connections can be stubborn -- not only to remove, but to put back in. A lift will make your life a million times easier (I did it without one). To start, you need to drop the inter-cooler, remove the radiator fan, and intake air duct tubing (in that order). This will give you all the clearance and leverage needed to complete the task. Also, if you're doing it without a lift -- remove the right headlight. The left image above shows you the higher connecting point on the radiator. The lower connecting point is directly behind the inter-cooler inlet and goes into the engine block. Everything is a perfect fit so don't worry about it. You'll understand which way is north-and-south once you start working. The connectors themselves (male/female), follow a specific groove pattern. In other words, no tricks or twisting to the method. They go in/come out ONLY one way...

============================================
UPDATE 08/08/14 - DUCTS & PPK2 PART-1
============================================

The 1M air-duct(s) installation is pretty straight-forward, to a certain degree. The passenger side bolts directly to the oil-cooler -- but -- what about the drivers side? Well, that's a problem. Luckily, there's a solution...


As you can see the passenger side has the mounting points...


1M's come equipped with a "BMW Performance Power Kit" or "PPK" stage-2 upgrade. They're also available as an accessory for the 1, 3, & X6 > N54, N55, and N63 engines (possibly others -- looking into it)...

Here are some details (thanks > Dackelone):
PPK1 - Cars only have the SW flash tune from BMW. So only a sticker would be the tale-tell. Or if you checked your turbo boost level... it would be a few psi higher with the PPK1 tune.

PPK2 - Cars have some mechanical tale-tells like: Extra radiator in the drivers wheel fender, radiator fan relays moved, horns relocated.

This extra radiator is needed in order to properly mount the driver's side 1M air-duct. Otherwise, it'll just dangle by a single bolt. The alternative is to custom make a mounting bracket -- or -- 3M/drill it to the bumper (which I'm not doing).

The 1M/PPK2 comes with a 850w radiator fan as opposed to the standard 135i which comes with a 600w radiator fan. I'm doing this properly so I'm getting the PPK2 (a little extra cooling never hurt anyone). I'm not, however, going to replace my fan. The 850w fan in the PKK2 does not use the same wiring harness as the 135i's stock fan. The kit comes with a heavier wiring harness that connects to the main terminal block, as well as an external fan relay and fuse (thanks > Pig Farmer). I'm sure the install is not that bad, but I don't see a need.

============================================
UPDATE 08/07/14 - FENDERS
============================================

Time for new wheels...


Tank connections and fender removal/install are really straight forward...


Word to the wise, don't COMPLETELY bolt down your new fender without making sure that it lines up well (consistent gaps) and that you can close the hood properly...

============================================
UPDATE 08/03/14 - SIDE MARKERS
============================================

Here's a little something for you guys in regards to the side-markers. The 1M side-markers, WILL NOT work by simply connecting them. You have to invert the wires on the harness. Grab yourself a tiny flat-head screwdriver. You don't need the white connector I'm touching for the 1M markers. Take it off...


1) With a small screwdriver, find the harness cap lock-tab, gently apply pressure while simultaneously sliding it back.
2) Remove the white clip to expose the pins.
3) Apply pressure to the pink lock-tab and slide them out.


Invert the wires, reverse the steps, connect, and test -- money$$!

============================================
UPDATE 08/03/14 - WATER TANK
============================================
Note: Some of the extra wiring that you see with florescent-pink tie-wraps are not OEM. Prior to starting this project, I was using a 1M-Style replica bumper with fog-lights. What you see here is fog-light wiring harness. It will be removed...


So naked...




Easiest way I found to drain the tank fluid, was to disconnect the right light-washer hose...


Draining! I took this time to clean the crap out of the inner fender...




Comparing tanks -- just in case anyone wants to see the difference. You can see the 1M fender shape in the new tank...

============================================
PARTS - REAR
============================================
I know its taken a while, but now that everything is installed -- I feel comfortable putting out/confirming this list. Also, because there are several phases involved, I've broken things down and arranged it in terms of what should be ordered 1st, 2nd, etc. I also organized it for those who ONLY want to do the dual exhaust mod:

Required - 1st Order (Rear Quarter Panel Installation):
Note: These are the essential parts needed to start, line-up, and complete the installation/transplant of the rear quarter panels. Don't forget, you need the "Side Skirt(s)" as well...
51128051611 - Bumper Guide L
51128051612 - Bumper Guide R
51128053878 - Rear Bumper w/i Sensors (*1)
51128052495 - Rear Bumper w/o Sensors (*1)
51118053877 - Rear Bumper Set of Covers
41008052629 - L Quarter Panel
41008052630 - R Quarter Panel

Required - 2nd Order (Exhaust & Battery Relocation):
Note: For those of you ONLY wanting to do the dual exhaust mod -- these are the parts...
51488051598 - Heat Shield
07147147513 - Heat Shield M6x12 Hex Bolt w/i washer > Qty.7 (*2)
51128051589 - Bumper Carrier
18207798560 - Muffler Rubber Mounts > Qty.3

51718051597 - Battery Bucket
61217553951 - Battery AGM 70AH 760A (*3)
61126929715 - Positive Battery Lead
61129217036 - Positive Battery Cable
61127845120 - Negative Battery Cable w/o IBS (Brown) (*4)
61127618679 - Negative Battery Cable w/i IBS (Black) (*4)
12517615476 - Adapter For IBS (*5)

16137845193 - Low Pressure Fuel Pump Bucket Vent Pipe
16137845194 - Exhaust Steam Pipe with Dust Filter
16137845195 - Gas Filler Vent Pipe

Required - 2nd Order (Part you WILL NOT find but WILL need to modify):
16137845196 - Scavenge air line (*6)

May not be needed:
51127131741 - Bumper Carrier Gaskets > Qty.2 (*7)

Optional Parts:
51478052634 - Battery Bucket Foam Insert
71100413439 - Tyre mobility set
51128051910 - Diffuser (*8)
=======================

Notes & Updates:
(*1) Verify with your dealer that you're getting the correct part.
(*2) You will run out of bolts for the heat shield. Make sure you order these.
(*3) Technically speaking, this "should" be the proper battery for the 1M (760-CCA). Unfortunately, when ordered , you'll most likely get the wrong part. After two weeks of back-n-forth with the dealer -- I gave up. I went to my local auto-part store and bought an "AutoCraft Platinum AGM, Group Size H6, 760 CCA" battery. This is the direct replacement (BTW), for all 1M's. The correct length of the battery (to fit properly) needs to be 11".
(*4) This is an issue that I'll cover shortly with some pictures for guidance. If your battery's IBS is connected to the negative terminal, then you'll have to get the "black" more expensive negative battery cable. If your car's IBS is not connected to the negative terminal, then you're in luck and can order the brown negative battery cable.
(*5) You ONLY need this parts if you get the "Negative Battery Cable w/i IBS".
(*6) This is also an issue that I'll cover shortly with some pictures for guidance. Ideally, you need this part but (for reasons I can't figure out), you can't order it. It's an easy mod though, so I'll walk you thru.
(*7) My gaskets were ok so I re-used them. Doesn't hurt to change them though. Only a few $$.
(*8) If you're getting an aftermarket diffuser, don't get this. It's pretty pricey.

============================================
PARTS - FRONT
============================================

My local BMW dealer was able to get me extremely competitive pricing. FREE delivery/shipping + a buddy let me use his shop to avoid taxes. I used ecstuning.com & huskerparts.com to get my prices (huskerparts.com has the lowest I've seen). Once I got pricing, I sent it to my local BMW and asked them to match it. Wala -- like magic -- they did. I saved about $300-400 between taxes and shipping cost.

Here's the list (front only). Thanks again to ilikebmxbikes & Sk8fe for compiling/gathering the part numbers:

Required:
51118057717 - Front Bumper (ordered w/out light-washer holes)
51117900764 - Front Bumper Grill
51778053879 - Side Skirt L
51778053880 - Side Skirt R
41358052625 - Fender L
41358052625 - Fender R
51138051817 - Fender Side Marker Mount/Bracket L
51138051818 - Fender Side Marker Mount/Bracket R
61678051590 - Windshield Reservoir Tank
51748051605 - Air Duct L
51748051606 - Air Duct R
51648051987 - Headlight Bracket L
51648051988 - Headlight Bracket R
51718051591 - Front Fender Liner L
51718051592 - Front Fender Liner R
51718051595 - Cover, Wheel Housing Front L
51718051596 - Cover, Wheel Housing Front R
51758051609 - Underhood Shield

May not be needed:
51118051613 - Front Bumper Tow Hook Cover (*1)
51118053877 - Set of Covers (*1)
51718045553 - Front Fender Liner Cover L (*2)
51718045554 - Front Fender Liner Cover R (*2)
51778052517 - Supporting Ledge L (*3)
51778052518 - Supporting Ledge R (*3)

Optional Parts:
51748051604 - Air Duct, Bottom (*4)
51138051601 - Chrome Side Marker L (*5)
51138051602 - Chrome Side Marker R (*5)
=======================

Notes & Updates:
(*1) In my case, bumper came with these parts installed. I would order the bumper 1st and wait to see if that's the case.
(*2) Liners did not come with covers, however, after comparing them -- they are identical. You can reuse the old covers.
(*3) Compared parts -- they are identical. You're current parts can be reused.
(*4) Optional if you're running an aftermarket inter-cooler that required cutting.
(*5) These part numbers are for OEM chrome side markers. They run about $30/each. Not a big fan of chrome, so I ordered ind-distribution markers in flat-black.

Last edited by TUN3D; 10-10-2014 at 10:21 PM.
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      07-08-2013, 03:04 PM   #2
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First question...where's the pics mang?!
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      07-08-2013, 03:51 PM   #3
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infinitekid2002 > Ha! Coming man, I didn't think anyone would give 3-shits so soon! I'm going to post some good shit, specifically related to the 1M-DTM/Kerscher front bumper. Stay TUN3D!
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      07-08-2013, 04:01 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by TUN3D View Post
Ha! Coming man, I didn't think anyone would give a 3-shits so soon! I'm going to post some good shit, specifically related to the 1M-DTM/Kerscher front bumper. Stay TUN3D!
cool, you've joined the club!
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      07-09-2013, 02:06 PM   #5
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Update >

Got things rolling today. More to come.
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      07-09-2013, 03:34 PM   #6
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awesome! lots of work, my bumper from Kersher came a bit different than yours, no white coating, had grills already installed and came with most of the precut holes as did the lip
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      07-09-2013, 03:55 PM   #7
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infinitekid2002 > Sweet! Is it the same bumper?
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      07-09-2013, 04:03 PM   #8
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Sweet! Is it the same bumper?
i think so
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      07-09-2013, 04:04 PM   #9
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oh how did u get the grills in? mine did not come with grill holes. i'm thinking about using my stock bumper to create a template and then drill holes with that
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      07-09-2013, 10:19 PM   #10
C.junior
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Bump to post some finished pics lol
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      07-09-2013, 10:33 PM   #11
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Dtm fiberwerks is a local small company in LA. Seems like they took the Kerscher bumper and made their own mold from it.
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      07-10-2013, 08:35 AM   #12
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Looks great. Didnt think it would be that much work though YUCK! Not acceptable to see that kind of damage.
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      07-10-2013, 08:45 AM   #13
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Fiberglass for the lose
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      07-10-2013, 02:29 PM   #14
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infinitekid2002 > I didn't do this myself. Body-shop is on it as we speak.

SfValley335i > Yup. I wonder how these two are related.

greensto > The chip was really small. The minute I saw the bumper I knew it was going straight to the shop. I've done fiberglass kits before enough to know that it wasn't going to be a problem.

ASPEC135i . Agreed.

=====================

More images are coming guys. I did a fitment test myself (which is what you see in my signature), the minute I got the bumper. It was on point. I'll post images of that shortly along with my solution for the ducts. I'm waiting for OSS to wrap up my headlights by Friday morning so I can drop it off for final fitment before paint. Got the blessing from Einser M to go BloodShot! Finish will be over gunmetal with a black-out (shit is gonna be serious).
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      07-10-2013, 04:05 PM   #15
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Update >

- Added the ducts section
- Added "fitting" images for 1M bumper
- Added some other cool images
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      07-10-2013, 04:23 PM   #16
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Looks good so far! I would just like to say thanks for all the great photos and the awesome commenting on them!
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      07-10-2013, 04:29 PM   #17
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I35it > No worries, thank you for checking it out! I'll be refining the comments as I go. At the latest I should have the everything back from the body-shop and mounted by Monday/Tuesday.
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      07-10-2013, 06:39 PM   #18
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B.. R.. A.. K.. E!
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      07-10-2013, 07:47 PM   #19
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Stohlen > N.. O.. D.. O.. U.. B.. T!

BTW...did you know you can get this insured?
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      07-10-2013, 08:02 PM   #20
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Hey have you drilled the holes for the grill if so how did you do it? Thanks man looks sick
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      07-10-2013, 08:04 PM   #21
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C.junior > I'm not doing the work...body-shop...
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      07-10-2013, 09:37 PM   #22
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Ook kool one other question what suspension u on your car is slammed
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