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      07-24-2013, 05:16 PM   #1
josephvman
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Second charge pipe failure, danger of driving with open pipe?

I just got my 1M back from the dealer, who repaired my second charge pipe failure. The first one was a blow-off at the clamp, this time the pipe split open and had to be replaced. I'm now researching which aftermarket pipe to install, because I'm not going to go through this annually like I have been.

I was talking with a friend about it, and he asked if there was any concern of driving with the broken pipe, which I did gingerly for a few days waiting for my appointment, of dirt getting into the cylinders through the vacuum leak. I had no idea, but I thought I'd throw that out there and see if anyone knew if that was a risk of driving with a popped-off or split charge pipe.
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      07-24-2013, 05:21 PM   #2
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No boost, non filtered air. Just get an ER or BMS charge pipe for peace of mind
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      07-24-2013, 05:50 PM   #3
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I am curious. car stock or modded?

Still on my original.
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      07-24-2013, 05:58 PM   #4
Joeyb7
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Just curious....how does an aftermarket affect your warranty, or what have people's experiences been? I just want to swap mine out now and avoid the inevitable replacement.
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      07-24-2013, 07:04 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joeyb7 View Post
Just curious....how does an aftermarket affect your warranty, or what have people's experiences been? I just want to swap mine out now and avoid the inevitable replacement.
After I blew my first charge pipe I asked my dealer: He said he'd replace it with aftermarket and not void the warranty if the dealer did the work. That's my plan when mine blows again (I'm stock).

We have at least one 1M blown motor that was not covered under warranty due to a replaced charge pipe. The claim was that a bolt or something got into the motor during the replacement.
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      07-24-2013, 07:19 PM   #6
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I just had my first charge pipe failure today. It failed at the throttle body coupler seam. I'm suprised it lasted this long. I just ordered an ER from Harold.
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      07-24-2013, 07:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdaddylo View Post
I just had my first charge pipe failure today. It failed at the throttle body coupler seam. I'm suprised it lasted this long. I just ordered an ER from Harold.
You will also like the slightly better throttle response in addition to peace of mind. Way much better designed item and looks quite good too if you ordered it in anodyzed black. My otherwise quite talented technician had some difficult time while installing it because he is a perfectionist like me and it can't be regarded as easy and 100% fit, you will need to struggle with it in order to make a good and tight install if you want to avoid another pop up because of a less than perfect install. I am not sure anyone should try installing it alone unless they did it a couple of times before. I am happy that I did that without waiting the stock blow up, don't care about the warranty when it comes to replacing a badly designed stock piece.
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      07-24-2013, 10:01 PM   #8
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I don't recommend changing from stock. Just sayin...
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      07-24-2013, 10:52 PM   #9
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I think my dealer is also a Dinan dealer, or at least used to be. I'll check and see, and if so I'll look into Dinan's stuff. They've always told me previously that if they install any Dinan stuff it wouldn't void the warranty.
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      07-25-2013, 12:11 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Parker View Post
I don't recommend changing from stock. Just sayin...
Will discuss this with my service manager. If they need to do the install to preserve the warranty, then I'm fine with paying them for peace of mind.
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      07-25-2013, 12:25 AM   #11
ayao
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My dealer is pretty against non-BMW parts -- I'd be curious to know what your dealer's response is.
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      07-25-2013, 07:53 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Parker View Post
I don't recommend changing from stock. Just sayin...
OP, it all depends on which planet you'd like to argue an eventual warranty claim; the BMW US claims department is from the planet where it's likely that any never identified non-OEM body (originating from a cracked airpipe or non OEM chargepipe) can get past the throttle valve, past your input valves and only then destroys your cylinders.
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      07-25-2013, 08:12 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Parker View Post
I don't recommend changing from stock. Just sayin...
Glad to see you still have a sense of humor Dan.
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      07-25-2013, 09:08 AM   #14
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Charge Pipe

I am going to share my experience here, but I preface it with I am one of the few who has had problems with aftermarket charge pipes, so...maybe it was just me and "operator error".

I had no problems with my stock CP, but I decided for "piece of mind" that I would replace it with an aftermarket one. I picked up a new ER chargepipe, and proceeded to install it. It's a bit of a pain in the butt to install (remove airbox, cowl, DV's, etc. and then re-install it all) and took me about 2 hours. During the install, the connection at the throttle body felt fairly "sloppy". It was not nearly as tight as the stock CP.

I go out for my first drive, and on my first hard pull, I hear a strange "hiss". On the second hard pull, I hear a louder hiss, followed by the dreaded half engine light on the display. I limp home, and I checked the codes on my P3, and the codes related to a boost leak. I checked all my connections (at the intercooler end, DV's, etc), and they were all tight. I could only assume it was leaking at the throttle body. After another 2 hours, I had my stock CP back in.

I explained my situation to the vendor, and he exchanged the CP for a new one. Once I got the new CP, I repeated the install procedure which took another 2 hours. The throttle body connection felt much better this time. I took it for a spin around the block, and all was good.

Two days later, while driving home from work, as I am accelerating out of an off-ramp, I hear a loud pop from the engine bay. I pull over, and look in the engine bay. This time the charge pipe has popped off on the intercooler end...

Needless to say, I am back to my stock CP, which I have never had any problems with.
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      07-25-2013, 09:22 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Glad to see you still have a sense of humor Dan.
I think Dan learned that he shouldn't work on his car with a mouthful of bolts...

Neil
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      07-25-2013, 04:43 PM   #16
josephvman
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I spoke with Dinan today, and they don't make a charge pipe. Incredibly, the guy had no idea what I was talking about. I understand they make parts for a lot of different models, but given the failure rate for these and the fact that there are so many other aftermarket companies that offer them it sort of surprised me.
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      07-25-2013, 06:47 PM   #17
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Charge pipe

http://www.shop.stettperformance.com/product.sc;jsessionid=4BC506B99E3CDB639
95A9C004380C337.m1plqscsfapp06?productId=14&catego ryId=5

Try this one from Stett Performance. Better connection design.
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      07-25-2013, 07:41 PM   #18
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Whoa... why hasn't this one been discussed before compared to the ER one?
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      07-25-2013, 08:04 PM   #19
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FWIW, I far prefer the CP-e and ER designs -- that use the factory C-clamp that fits precisely to the throttle body -- than others that use a couple pieces of silicone hose with clamps.

Neil

Last edited by MDORPHN; 07-25-2013 at 08:25 PM.
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      07-25-2013, 08:14 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klepper1
I am going to share my experience here, but I preface it with I am one of the few who has had problems with aftermarket charge pipes, so...maybe it was just me and "operator error".

I had no problems with my stock CP, but I decided for "piece of mind" that I would replace it with an aftermarket one. I picked up a new ER chargepipe, and proceeded to install it. It's a bit of a pain in the butt to install (remove airbox, cowl, DV's, etc. and then re-install it all) and took me about 2 hours. During the install, the connection at the throttle body felt fairly "sloppy". It was not nearly as tight as the stock CP.

I go out for my first drive, and on my first hard pull, I hear a strange "hiss". On the second hard pull, I hear a louder hiss, followed by the dreaded half engine light on the display. I limp home, and I checked the codes on my P3, and the codes related to a boost leak. I checked all my connections (at the intercooler end, DV's, etc), and they were all tight. I could only assume it was leaking at the throttle body. After another 2 hours, I had my stock CP back in.

I explained my situation to the vendor, and he exchanged the CP for a new one. Once I got the new CP, I repeated the install procedure which took another 2 hours. The throttle body connection felt much better this time. I took it for a spin around the block, and all was good.

Two days later, while driving home from work, as I am accelerating out of an off-ramp, I hear a loud pop from the engine bay. I pull over, and look in the engine bay. This time the charge pipe has popped off on the intercooler end...

Needless to say, I am back to my stock CP, which I have never had any problems with.
I had a similar experience with their ER pipe. Back to stock now.
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      07-25-2013, 08:27 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN View Post
FWIW, I far prefer the CP-e and ER designs -- that use the factory C-clamp that fits precisely to the throttle body -- than others that use a couple pieces of silicone hose with clamps.

Neil
+1

Do you know if their Setrab oil cooler will mount directly into the stock location without issue?
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      07-25-2013, 08:44 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN View Post
FWIW, I far prefer the CP-e and ER designs -- that use the factory C-clamp that fits precisely to the throttle body -- than others that use a couple pieces of silicone hose with clamps.

Neil
which apparently can still blow off? Is this a stock design flawed, bad factory quality control or are guys just "boosting too much" when their aftermarket charge pipes are blowing off as well? Or just faulty installations?

Not to pose accusatory questions, just trying to figure out what to do if this is something I should expect to happen at some point for me.
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