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      09-03-2013, 09:57 AM   #23
Qunadry
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Malms Chemical sells a hand polishing tool called the Kolonsky. Since I was not sure of my skills with a power polisher, I purchased this several years ago and buy new pads every couple of years. This with Meguiars Ultimate compound has produced better results than I ever achieved with clay, plus the finish is ready to be sealed/waxed. I use Meguiars Ultimate paste wax. My cars (Deep Sea Blue 135i, mine and Carbon Black Buick Regal CXL, my wife's) never looked better.
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      09-04-2013, 10:28 AM   #24
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I have yet to polish my car, and have clayed it 3 times...Haven't noticed any ill effect, but I am fairly new to detailing so what do I know. I am very careful (two-bucket, dry with a leaf-blower) with the wash/dry that I do ~weekly, so there is minimal swirling/scratches.

To be honest, I am a little intimidated by the process of polishing as I have never done it before.

Should I polish the car next time after my clay? Like I said I haven't noticed any ill-effects but I don't want to be damaging the paint.
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      09-04-2013, 10:53 PM   #25
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Claying wears me out more than anything else. I parked my X5 under a tree that was dripping sap and I think I lost a year of my life just dealing with claying it all off. Miserable. After you're done claying, you have to polish it all out, then apply the wax again.
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      09-05-2013, 09:47 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P1et View Post
Claying wears me out more than anything else. I parked my X5 under a tree that was dripping sap and I think I lost a year of my life just dealing with claying it all off. Miserable. After you're done claying, you have to polish it all out, then apply the wax again.
You may want to look into using some of the Nanoskin Autoscrub products, specifically their wash mitt. It makes the process of "claying" (removing contaminants embedded in the paint) much more tolerable.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/autoscrub-wash-mitt.html

If you use a DA polisher, you can also opt to use the Nanoskin pad, which makes it go even faster/easier, imo.
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/nanos...b-pad-kit.html
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      09-16-2013, 01:55 PM   #27
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Tried out the Nanoskin Fine Sponge today with Chemical Guys Luber as my lubricant...

All I can say is... WOW.



Because of its size, it's a lot easier to handle and use than clay... In fact, it was so easy to use, I made two cleaning passes over the car... And I'll probably "clay" more often as well.

Highly recommended.
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      09-16-2013, 07:54 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw1racer View Post
Tried out the Nanoskin Fine Sponge today with Chemical Guys Luber as my lubricant...

All I can say is... WOW.



Because of its size, it's a lot easier to handle and use than clay... In fact, it was so easy to use, I made two cleaning passes over the car... And I'll probably "clay" more often as well.

Highly recommended.
Yeah, tried out the Nanoskin sponge yesterday too. So much easier to use and faster than a regular clay bar! Other than getting to small, tight spaces, this is a no-brainer when it comes to clay bars.
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      09-16-2013, 11:54 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by yakuza70 View Post
Yeah, tried out the Nanoskin sponge yesterday too. So much easier to use and faster than a regular clay bar! Other than getting to small, tight spaces, this is a no-brainer when it comes to clay bars.
There aren't any small tight spaces I can think of on a 1er other than the door handle area... And I only sponged all of the horizontal panels (hood, roof, trunk, bumpers) since they had all of the fallout issues... The vertical panels on my car are still smooth.
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      09-16-2013, 11:59 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw1racer View Post
There aren't any small tight spaces I can think of on a 1er other than the door handle area... And I only sponged all of the horizontal panels (hood, roof, trunk, bumpers) since they had all of the fallout issues... The vertical panels on my car are still smooth.
Did you still need to polish after using the Nanoskin?
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      09-17-2013, 12:12 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Ian///M View Post
Did you still need to polish after using the Nanoskin?
I didn't think the car needed it... There wasn't any noticeable or appreciable marring... I went straight to the Powerlock sealant.
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      09-17-2013, 09:37 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian///M View Post
Did you still need to polish after using the Nanoskin?
It depends on the state of the paint after you've pulled the contaminants out of it. Typically, people expect *some* amount of polishing post-clay.
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      09-17-2013, 03:24 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheshirecat79 View Post
It depends on the state of the paint after you've pulled the contaminants out of it. Typically, people expect *some* amount of polishing post-clay.
Yep, I know about claying ... this in Nanoskin though
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      09-17-2013, 04:36 PM   #34
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Yep, I know about claying ... this in Nanoskin though
It goes the same for the Nanoskin.
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      09-18-2013, 10:56 AM   #35
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Can anyone suggest a good polish, and a bonnet material for a 6" buffer, that I'd use after the Nanoskin and Chemical Guys Luber treatment?
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      09-18-2013, 01:49 PM   #36
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Can anyone suggest a good polish, and a bonnet material for a 6" buffer, that I'd use after the Nanoskin and Chemical Guys Luber treatment?
That depends on the condition of your paint. If you don't have any scratches, you won't need a correcting polish- I would skip straight to a seal. However, you most likely will, so I would suggest:

Only light scratching- Meguiar's M205 with Meguiar's Soft Buff Polishing Pad

Moderate Scratching- Meguiar's M105 followed up with M205 (to finish down any light scratches) with the same pad

follow up with a quality sealant like Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant, let cure for 24 hours and top with a wax if you want extra physical protection for the paint.

Finish with your choice of quick detailing spray if you want the finish to be extra-slick.
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      09-19-2013, 05:28 PM   #37
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Clay does NOT harm the paint. Just use a good lube and wax after.
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      09-19-2013, 06:25 PM   #38
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I have a 2013 Carbon Black 128i myself (just arrived home Monday in fact) from CA/European Delivery. About 500 mi on the clock, and I clayed it right after its first wash. As others have said, just because it's new doesn't mean the paint is in great shape. Mine (and yours too) spent countless days waiting for transport, then however many days at the dealer too (none for me, but it did have a not super nice ride on the truck from Cali). Check it with the plastic bag test - if you can feel the sandpaper effect with bare hands, your paint DEFINITELY needs clay.

Claying with good technique/good lube helps a lot to minimize swirling. I did mine yesterday, and the only swirls were spots where I got careless or ran out of lube. None of them were very deep though, but either way I would polish right after. I don't think a machine buffer is strictly necessary, since I don't have one at the moment. I used Meg's Ultimate Polish since there wasn't anything to buff out really, couldn't find any swirls or scratches under strong lighting when I was done.

Conclusion: OK to clay, probably necessary in fact. Check to make sure, and do use proper technique. Polish not absolutely necessary after, but a good idea. Don't forget to wax (but you knew that of course)!
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      09-19-2013, 11:13 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texan Engineer View Post
the only swirls were spots where I got careless or ran out of lube.
You shouldn't use a circular motion to begin with, only a linear motion and in the same direction the car drives...
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      09-20-2013, 10:07 AM   #40
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Clay does NOT harm the paint. Just use a good lube and wax after.
Clay *can* harm the paint by introducing light marring depnding on the hardness of the clay and the contaminants in the paint.

As far as the rest of your comment, if that works for you, go for it.
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      09-20-2013, 01:06 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by bmw1racer View Post
You shouldn't use a circular motion to begin with, only a linear motion and in the same direction the car drives...
According to Mike Phillips from Autogeek, directionality of the clay bar doesn't matter (can't post up the video right now, at work). I personally will concur with that, I don't see any differences in the end result.
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      09-20-2013, 10:46 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Texan Engineer View Post
According to Mike Phillips from Autogeek, directionality of the clay bar doesn't matter (can't post up the video right now, at work). I personally will concur with that, I don't see any differences in the end result.
Okay.

I was always taught to wash, wax, clay, etc. in a linear motion... You can't get swirls if you never move you hand in a circular motion.
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      09-20-2013, 11:13 PM   #43
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Okay.
I was always taught to wash, wax, clay, etc. in a linear motion... You can't get swirls if you never move you hand in a circular motion.
I was taught that also, although what would have been "swirls" will just be "streaks". Either way, the modern consensus seems to be as Texan mentioned- today's clays are supple enough that any marring they may leave isn't affected by the direction of the clay.

This is great for us, as it makes the entire process a little more simple.
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      09-21-2013, 01:51 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by cheshirecat79 View Post
today's clays are supple enough that any marring they may leave isn't affected by the direction of the clay.
Maybe even more so with the nanoskin sponge: I got zero marring... At least none that I noticed.
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