[lawwailok]

ive been tuned from jb+ to jb4, and just did a move and try out cobb ap. just had it flashed a few hrs ago, and during the flashing process, i did get something little here little there but overall it is really smooth. ended up i drained my battery and required a jump started, hahahaha. and due to low juice on my battery, it stuck in the recovery mode for a little bit. but everything is all sorted out and running fine. the fist WOT, i had a half engine light but motor didn't stutter or anything. so cleared that with AP and did another WOT, no more half engine warning.

i did a short burst to test out the datalog function, funny thing in the 93 oct map, i see quit low boost on the average. and i was trying to open up the CSV and make a plot graph, i am having trouble.

can any excel guru show me how to plot out a nice graph for a record myself to keep? i tried but the proportion is way off.
thanks for advance!

also, does cobb need a few WOT/some driving to get the new adaption?

[marv85]

which excel do you have? 2007?

Just select all the columns you want to add at the same time. First selection is your X-axis. The rest will be your y-axis. Then while they're selected, insert a XY scatter plot. you should have all the data plotted against your X-axis (time for example).
You'll notice that not all the data is easily readable because you have Y-values spanning a very wide range (thousands for RPM and much lower for boost, afr etc...). What you need to do here is create another y-axis. Do that by selecting a plot, right click on it, and choose format data series. In the window that pops up, select Secondary axis. Repeat the process for all data plots that you want on the secondary axis.
Hope this helps

[lawwailok]

Originally Posted by marv85

which excel do you have? 2007?

Just select all the columns you want to add at the same time. First selection is your X-axis. The rest will be your y-axis. Then while they're selected, insert a XY scatter plot. you should have all the data plotted against your X-axis (time for example).
You'll notice that not all the data is easily readable because you have Y-values spanning a very wide range (thousands for RPM and much lower for boost, afr etc...). What you need to do here is create another y-axis. Do that by selecting a plot, right click on it, and choose format data series. In the window that pops up, select Secondary axis. Repeat the process for all data plots that you want on the secondary axis.
Hope this helps

i have 2007 excel. i'll try to work on the plot graph, thanks for the help.
if i still can't figure that out, do you mind me sending you the csv and you help me to graph out 1 log? thanks!

[marv85]

Sure man. If you don't figure out, send me the csv file. I'll check this early 2m, and send it back to you

[Alan l.]

Prolly a good idea to reset your ECU after changing tunes. I was also told the flash needs some adaptation time

[ModBargains.com]

Originally Posted by Alan l.

Prolly a good idea to reset your ECU after changing tunes. I was also told the flash needs some adaptation time

I couldn't have said it better myself. I definitely would recommend that you reset your ECU via the COBB AP -> trouble shoot function. Give the car roughly 200 miles to adapt and do further testing from that point forward as well.

[lawwailok]

thanks for the headsup guys. the first run, i didn't reset the ecu learning, so car was feeling weird and believe it or not, my 93 oct map boost was at ~9-10 max. then i use the AP and reset the ecu learning and re-log again, holy moly, average boost is around 13 and peak top out at 16 at one point.

now i just need more driving and try to plot the graph out from the CSV file.

[MikesBMW]

i have an 07, plan on installing the AP tonight, whats the deal with the batteries draining? i don't have a car battery charger or jump start cables, am i safe to do this or while my car battery die on me??

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

When you upload it takes some power to flash the ECU. The car is running through a bunch of a parameters and test as well as priming the fuel system ETC which all drains power.

If your battery is in good standing you shouldnt have a problem and the flash is usually about 20 minutes.

Worst case scenario you might have to jump the car but this is very uncommon from what I hear.

[lawwailok]

Originally Posted by MB135i

i have an 07, plan on installing the AP tonight, whats the deal with the batteries draining? i don't have a car battery charger or jump start cables, am i safe to do this or while my car battery die on me??

i'll stronger suggest u have a batt charger handy and plug in. my issue first was the ecu comm error, found out a dirty obd port. and then everything ran smooth until toward 90% done of the flash, i guess my car is low on batt, it stuck again with ecu comm error and everything was in recovery mode. i have to plug in the batt charger to finish the flash but i had a bad ground connection with the batt charger(i clamped to a weak ground in the car), car wouldn't even crank. so ended up i had a help from jump start my car, everything was fine afterward. the flash itself only takes around 20 mins or so, but i had some errors and couldn't figure out, ended up my car needed to be turned on for 1.5 hours without plugging in any charging device and drained my battery dead.

i bought my battery charger from homedepot and it's pretty cheap, like $40. since you are going to do more flash down the road, so investing in a battery charger and keep it handy is recommended.

[dlbrooks18]

Eric, so does it feel the same or more powerful than JB4? Interesting that it only takes 20 minutes to flash, whereas my Dinan took almost an hour..

[Clap135]

Originally Posted by **********s.com

I couldn't have said it better myself. I definitely would recommend that you reset your ECU via the COBB AP -> trouble shoot function. Give the car roughly 200 miles to adapt and do further testing from that point forward as well.

There is nothing to reset after you flash a.car. during the flash process you wipe everything clean. So that was actually a useless idea.

[SennaZ]

Originally Posted by **********s.com

Give the car roughly 200 miles to adapt and do further testing from that point forward as well.

And to follow on from above, there's nothing to adapt since all of the values it will need to use are coded as part of the flashing.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Tough crowd

[lawwailok]

Originally Posted by dlbrooks18

Eric, so does it feel the same or more powerful than JB4? Interesting that it only takes 20 minutes to flash, whereas my Dinan took almost an hour..

hey donny, car feels different between the 2. to me, the cobb feels a tad stronger. i am currently running ~97 octane in my tank. with JB4 i was running map 2, which is a 14.5 psi map. with cobb s1, im in the 93 octane map.

jb4 gives a smooth pull and power still coming strong even after 5k rpm.
cobb, on the other hand, right at 3k the sudden huge power surge basically can break you neck and it will smooth out around 4k+.

throttle response, i think cobb is a bit over sensitive, when throttle position is ~30-40%, the car will just keep pulling like you were doing WOT. JB4 power comes in smoother and easier to modulate with throttle position. once you let go the gas, the power will stop, but with cobb, even tho you let go the gas after a WOT, seems like the power prolongs for another second before it dies out.

to my butt dyno, cobb seems to have higher torque. with jb4 i can break loose the traction in 2nd gear for maybe a sec or 2. with cobb, after 3k rpm in 2nd gear, all i could see is the dtc light kept triggering until shift to 3rd.

both have the pros and cons. and since i only have the cobb for 1 day, i may not be able to do a full detail on the compare. honestly both tune are good, i switched to cobb is because the easy installation without messing with the ecu compartment again.

[dlbrooks18]

Originally Posted by lawwailok

hey donny, car feels different between the 2. to me, the cobb feels a tad stronger. i am currently running ~97 octane in my tank. with JB4 i was running map 2, which is a 14.5 psi map. with cobb s1, im in the 93 octane map.

jb4 gives a smooth pull and power still coming strong even after 5k rpm.
cobb, on the other hand, right at 3k the sudden huge power surge basically can break you neck and it will smooth out around 4k+.

throttle response, i think cobb is a bit over sensitive, when throttle position is ~30-40%, the car will just keep pulling like you were doing WOT. JB4 power comes in smoother and easier to modulate with throttle position. once you let go the gas, the power will stop, but with cobb, even tho you let go the gas after a WOT, seems like the power prolongs for another second before it dies out.

to my butt dyno, cobb seems to have higher torque. with jb4 i can break loose the traction in 2nd gear for maybe a sec or 2. with cobb, after 3k rpm in 2nd gear, all i could see is the dtc light kept triggering until shift to 3rd.

both have the pros and cons. and since i only have the cobb for 1 day, i may not be able to do a full detail on the compare. honestly both tune are good, i switched to cobb is because the easy installation without messing with the ecu compartment again.

Thanks for the review Eric

[COBB Tuning]

Thank you for sharing! Please let us know if we can be of assistance any other way. Enjoy

Regards-
Lance

[lawwailok]

Originally Posted by COBB Tuning

Thank you for sharing! Please let us know if we can be of assistance any other way. Enjoy

Regards-
Lance

thanks Lance, i will. so far Ronnie in socal gives me a really great customer service and i can't ask for more from him, he even updated the AP with the beta firmware for me before he shipped it out, so when i got my AP, i just need to plug it in and flash it, =)

[blisstik]

Get an FMIC, there's an AMS one for $500. It'll keep your IATs lower.

[bulldog_yyc]

good review. I think the best takeaway is that Cobb has processes in place that will help you out if your battery fails during the flashing. That was always a point of concern in the piggyback vs. flash debate. While a standby charger or other alternative is advised, its good to know that there is a safety net when you are flashing your car and it works as advertised.

[lawwailok]

Originally Posted by blisstik

Get an FMIC, there's an AMS one for $500. It'll keep your IATs lower.

omg G, here comes the evil again... LOL
past 2 months, ive been spending on coilover, COBB.... and now you mention about the FMIC, my wallet is getting thinner and thinner....

[blisstik]

Well its almost heatsoak season, just looking out for ya.