Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRuss
Sure, the hub and strut are fixed, but wouldn't there still be a small amount of flex in hard cornering etc? With the full weight of the car pushing sideways against the tyre I'd have thought maybe it might move slightly, even if we're talking 1mm or less.
So you think I may be able to get away with a 3mm spacer up there?
What about the rear? The rears still hit the arch liner even with the 5mm spacer when the rear is jacked up off the ground. However, they now at least turn when I jack the car up and try to spin them. Also, from the photos I guess I'll still need the rear fenders rolled, as the lip on them is wider than up front? Or should I be able to get away with no roll there either?
What camber plates are you using?
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I use the M3 front arms along with Dinan camber plates for a total of -2.5 camber, my caster is set at 7.2 degrees(maybe 7.4), with zero toe.
The tire flex is the greatest single concern when talking about tire to strut contact. The other flex that would need to occur for the tire to become closer to the strut would involve flex in the wheel, wheel bearing, hub, or the strut housing itself. In a good working car these should all be so slight they are not a concern.
As far as the rear end is concerned, I would not worry about contact when the suspension is hanging at full droop.(lots of setups do this). Its at ride height and upon suspension compression that matters.
The rear suspension gains negative camber as the suspension is compressed. To see how much or little fender rolling you need do the following.
1. install drivers side rear wheel with spacers and put the car on the ground
2. go to the other side of the car and lift the front jacking point high up. (If you can have someone else lift while you watch the other side that would be ideal). This will severely compress the drivers rear suspension and show you where and how bad its gonna rub.
Make sense?