Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric in RVA
Been thinking about that a while. Perhaps the early release of brakes is allowing weight off the front. Maybe try braking later, harder and trail braking into the corner to get it to rotate. Basically sticking the nose down with the brakes and leaving the rear light to allow rotation.
Bigger bars only lessen traction at that axle and I agree stay away as long as you can but you have to get balance and it will transform the car. Having to back off to dial out that understeer is no fun.
Maybe less toe in front and rear too.
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Yes, aggressive trail-braking is a must to help rotate this car. If you closely watch right foot in the video, I tried that for as long as possible without scrubbing off too much speed in each corner. Maybe I could do more?
However, I experienced a ton of brake fade (and a deep drop in the pedal) so it was quite a challenge to brake later without going into the corner too hot and missing the apex.
Another important task is managing the brakes for consistency throughout the entire length of the session and to have them last the rest of the day! Hard to do that when going nuts on the brakes lol.
I can see the stiffer rear bar helping quite a bit for autocross, but not really for the track. Some even run without a rear bar for more rear stability in the higher speed corners. I believe Scott Cary raced the 135i successfully without one.
A larger wheel and more rubber up front may be all that it needs to dial out enough understeer. A 265 square setup on 9.5” wheels might be the recipe.
I already run very low toe-in both front and rear (0.06” or less).