So your not talking about a car which is nearly 20 years old are we ?
You can "clearly" see I have a 128i and KBB was pretty much bang on with the price for mine.
As I can "clearly" see that you have a 128i too, I'm kinda guessing the same rule applies to you.
When you say what's my car worth, this is dependent on a LOT of factors.
None of which you asked for
* BOOK VALUE
* INSURANCE VALUE
What's it worth depends on what someone is WILLING to pay for it, I'll give you a jam sandwich for it, or maybe I'll give you 45 grand for it.
A CAR is worth different things to different people.
Take a car... Any car, lets say it is a POS worth 600 bucks, add a turbo, wide wheels, ejector seat, cannons, go faster stripes, what ever, the car is still a POS worth 600 bucks. PROBABLY less, with the mods.
I "wouldn't buy" any car with ANY mods, so your car "to me" is worthless.
Someone else may view your car with more worth than me. But to them your car is worth differently.
BOOK PRICE is a guide as to what is on the market, also coupled with what insurance is likely to think your car is worth in a total loss.
Hope that helps
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommm
Yes, KBB, Edmunds, NADA. Why didnt i think of those wonderful resources if you are valuing something like an Accord, Taurus or a Camry. As someone with 944 in his name I thought you knew how utterly useless they have been for 20 years, and still are if you are valuing a 944 (I owned 3 S2s, NA, 951, 951S and now an ugly S), M Roadster, and other cars I own and owned. If I used KBB five years ago to value my M I would still be shopping.
I apologize if I thought the process to value an E82 was more like that of an E36 or 944 than an Accord. I will take the value of an 08 and 09, then subtract the difference and i will have the value of an 08 in a year.
But there is a problem, hence why I am asking the forum. When I bought the car in June of 16 with 32,400 miles I brought the three values with me and the range swung about 20% before the mileage adjustment. One of the resources had a mileage adjustment of a few hundred dollars, while the other had an adjustment of a few thousand. All three knocked the value down because it was not an automatic. Have I been foolishly paying a premium for the manual transmission on my cars all these years? When the truck sidswiped and did $4,500 damage my E39 540i 6M his insurance "totaled" it using book. I got double the book when it was done and the car still has a clean title. The value was in the manual transmission.
Back in '03 when i bought a 93 Z28 6M with 31,000 miles, the books added $700 to the value for a 100,000 mileage adjustment, and knocked the value because it was a manual. Do you want to negotiate with that as your basis from the so called expert?
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