|
Okay.. finally. After taking my time, I’ve completed all 12 new rod bearings (upper/lower) with new rod bolts. Today I was able to bleed the coolant and then fire up the engine..
It’s seems to run and idle really nice.
I also replaced the water pump and thermostat, two idler pulleys and tensioner pulley with a new belt.. also installed MMP charge pipe with a ebay BOV, everything fit nicely and functions good so far. One thing I did instead of plugging the old diverter valve holes.. i decided to put small air filters from Speedway on there. I think it should allow a little more air to the turbos.. yeah warm air but should be okay. (I like and keep the original air box)
My water pump was original with 114k miles!!
What the heck..
I took it apart to inspect it.. and it was on its way to seize up. The center magnetic spindal part covered in plastic.. was actually cracking and chipping.. this was likely the buzzing noise I heard. Yet it still worked.
So the blessing in disguise of the bad bearing was catching the water pump before seizing and learning how to access the underneath part of the car.. (removing steering and subframe) it’s so nice to work on with those parts out of the way.
I wanted to update on the engine knock, yeah it was a spun bearing caught early,
and yes the rod bearings can be changed out from underneath..
Thanks for the comments from the beginning guys.
|