So, I got the parallel solution working.
Got a cooler on ebay for $89 but I did have to build the front tension bracket as it somehow didn't still have the bracket attached.
I sourced the oil lines from a wrecking yard for $50.
Got some fittings from Summit for about $100.
Ducting kit and other mounting parts from Tisher ~ $175.
Used two Mishimoto 90 degree AN-10 to 1.5 x 20mm to attached to the top of the OFH.
Used a 90 degree and a 45 degree Summit twist-tite AN-10 hose ends. (Don't recommend these, both had minor leaks that I couldn't stop - ended up having Summit ship me
conical repair seals gratis to correct since I'd have to cut the hoses due to the barb fittings and it would be more of a PITA to RMA than it was worth...to Summit's credit, they did what I asked and made it right with the conical seals, which appear to have solved the problem.)
I used a heat gun to melt the intake duct underside into a shape that would allow the fittings to clear.
It all appears to work! Test drive for over 30 min and temps stayed below 230. Not sure when the stock thermostat opens but there appeared to be some flow and heat transfer to both sides. Need to get it on the track and do some IR thermometer measurements to see if it is balanced.
Pics:
BTW, there is a restrictor in the stock oil line just where a previous poster stated. You can see it in my first pic on the right connection. I am OK with that...there is a balance where you want the oil to spend enough time in the cooler to be effectively cooled, plus I didn't feel like cutting and reattaching my stock line on the passenger side to remove it if I removed the one from the second set I used for the drivers side. Both sides should be almost evenly matched for flow restriction, which is key for max heat transfer with parallel systems. I'll report back my results from my next track day, which is the 12th. I know this isn't the 'end-all-be all" solution, but I think it is a good solution using stock coolers and mounting, which is what I wanted.