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      06-10-2020, 06:36 PM  
First Lieutenant
Russiandl's Avatar

Drives: 2009 Bmw 135i
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Roselle

iTrader: (2)

VIN WBAUC73569VK79668
Type code UC73
Type 135IS (USA)
E series E82 ()
Series 1
Steering LL
Doors 2
Engine N54
Displacement 3.00
Power 225
Drive HECK
Transmission MECH
Colour SCHWARZ 2 (668)
Upholstery LEDER BOSTON 2/B7 LEMON (LWB7) 2008-09-23

Vehicle Options

S217 Active steering
S249 Multifunction f steering wheel
S2VB Tire pressure display
S322 Comfort access
S403 Glass roof, electrical
S442 Cup holder
S459 Seat adjuster, electric, with memory
S481 Sports seat
S494 Seat heating driver/passenger
S4AS Fine wood version, poplar grain, gray
S502 Headlight cleaning system
S521 Rain sensor
S522 Xenon Light
S524 Adaptive Headlights
S534 Automatic air conditioning

Vehicle options
S540 Cruise control
S570 Reinforced power supply
S5GA Preparation alarm system
S609 Navigation system Professional
S615 Expanded BMW Online Information
S620 Voice control
S639 Preparation f mobile phone cpl. USA/CDN
S653 High Definition Radio
S676 HiFi speaker system
S693 Preparation BMW satellite radio
S697 Area-Code 1 for DVD
S6AA BMW TeleServices
S6AB Control for Teleservices
S6FL USB/Audio interface
S6UH Traffic Information
Vehicle options
S710 M leather steering wheel
S760 High gloss shadow line
S840 High speed synchronisation
S8SC Telematics access request,country-spec.
S8SP Control unit COP
S925 Dummy-SALAPA

Vehicle options
S2SM BMW LA wheel, star spoke 264
S321 Exterior parts in vehicle color
S3AP Windshield with grey wedge
S473 Armrest front
S645 BMW US Radio
S704 M Sports suspension
S823 Hot-climate version
S845 Acoustic belt warning
S850 Dummy-SALAPA
S853 Language version English
S876 Radio frequency 315 MHz

This is my Daily driver and I baby it as much as I can. The car had a full 2 step paint correction.

For sale 2009 BMW 135I purchased 06/17/14
Prior to my ownership there were two other owners.

Owner #1
Originally car was Baton Rouge, LA
Last known Services performed by original owner
Oil change 04/29/10
Brake Fluid Flush 07/23/10
Cabin and Engine Filter 07/23/10
Front brake pads 11/17/11

Owner #2
purchased with 30,013 miles on 03/08 from Brian Harris BMW-Mini Certified Pre-Owned. Inspection report was competed on 12/32/11.
Oil change and Filter completed

All of its maintenance had been performed at either BMW of Tucson or Blue + White BMW Specialists. Since buying it at 30,000 miles, shad two annual oil changes, as the car was driven less than 7,000 miles a year.

#5 injector and Plug @ 30k- see #4 on services
Brake Flush and Change @ 31.5k
Microfilter @ 31.5k
AC Evaporator @ 31.5k
Cup holder replaced @ 36.5k
Rear brake pads and wear sensor @ 36.5k
Positive Battery Cable @ 38.6k
Alignment @ 38.7k
Oil change @ 41.8k
Driver side Headlight due to malfunction @ 41.8k
fuel low-pressure sensor @ 43k.3k
water pump and coolant @ 43k.5k
Brake Fluid Change @ 43.5k
Cylinder #5 Coil Plug @ 44.4k

Owner#3 (me)
Mileage: 90,000
Recent services performed:

Mobile synthetic oil changed every 5k from 47k-86k now using Liquid Moly

Window Actuator @ 47.5k
Spark plugs OEM BMW @ 50k
Alignment @ 51.7k
4)New Injectors Newest Index 12@ 53.8k- I think it's because previous owner could
Only run 91' trough his ownership in Tucson
Oil Filter housing gasket @ 53.8k
Updated navigation and new CIC @ 53.8k
Coil packs changed @ 60k
Door lock actuator Driverside @ 65k
Walnut Blast and New Intake gasket @ 65k
New battery coded and Registered @ 67k
NGK 95770 1 step Colder @ 73k
Redline MTL transmission change @ 74k
Redline 75w90 differential change @ 74k
Verocious Platinum Cured Silicone Vacuum Lines @75k
Door lock actuator passenger @ 76k
F10 clutch/ flywheel @ 77K
ECS Brass pivot pin @ 77k
Pilot bearing @ 77k
Crankshaft Seal @ 77k
Eldor Coils @ 78k
NGK 95770 1 step Colder @ 78k
VGC @ 78k
RB PCV @ 78k
Boost Solenoids @ 78k
Oil change @ 79k
Ebc Redstuff pads and BMW Rotors @ 82k
Brake Flush DOT 4 TYP 200 ATE @ 82k
New Rein Downpipe Gaskets @ 83k
Oil change @ 83.5k
Whiteline Rear subframe inserts @ 83.5k
Bilstein B12 ProKit (all new hardware bolts and gaskets)- 84.5k
Mann Carbon Activated Cabin Air Filter - 85.3k
Sway Bar Endlinks Front Lemforder- 85.3k
Liquid Moly Oil Change- 86.2k
Redline MT/LV Transmission oil change- 86.2k
Liquid Moly Oil Change- 89.2k

Have all paper work and documentation of services or purchases


Formula One Pinnacle Window Tints @32k
VRSF Chargepipe @ 56k
Cobb stage 2 sport @ 57k
VRSF Downpipes v2 @ 57k
ETS Intakes cleaned/oiled every 7k mikes @ 57k
VRSF charge pipe @ 57k
Wagner FMIC @ 57k
BMS CDV Delete
APEX ARC-8 NANKANG NS-25 ( also have winter set 17" Blizzaks with Style 142 wheels square set-up
Gloss Black ECS kidneys
UUC SSK @ 77k
New OEM Third Brake light 87k
Whalen Shift knob @ 88k
Blackline taillights @ 88k
E92 M3 Front Sway-bar with new bushings @ 88.6k
Whiteline adjustable end-links @ 88.6k

Below is a hit list of common issues with the N54. I have included what has been completed along with the mileage. The car is on original turbos with zero issues and no rattle. I always let the car warm up to proper temperature and always let the car cool down after any trips beyond 15 miles(which is mostly on my way to and from work) that's pretty much the only place I drive it.

The downpipes have passed Illinois emissions with no issues with no Downpipe fix needed. (please look into your state regulations as each state varies how cars are tested)

Service List
E8X/E9X/E6X 135i/335i/535i

Spark Plugs Need to be done every ~50k Miles
(Oem Bmw plugs @ 50k , NGK 95770 @ 73k,
NGK 95770 @ 78k)

Oil Leaks:
· Valve Cover Gasket-Walnut Blast and New Intake gasket @ 65k and 78k
Oil filter Housing gasket(s) will start to leak around 100k miles (Oil Filter housing gasket @ 53.8k)
· Oil pan gasket leaks begin to show up frequently north of 120k
· Rear Main Seal leaks are uncommon but do happen (Crankshaft Seal @ 77k)
· Turbo feed/drain lines occasionally leak

Coils will begin to fail around 80-100k miles, best to replace all 6 at once.( Bosh coils @ 60k and Eldor Coils @ 78k )

Main Drive belt and tensioner should be done before 100k.

· Injectors sometimes fail. They have been updated a number of times and are currently on a -12 revision. Most cars shipped with -05 to -07 injectors. Decouplers should be replaced at the same time. Injectors need to be coded to the car.
(New Injectors Newest Index @ 53.8k)

Depending on driving aggressiveness Thrust arm bushings will fail around 100k. Can be replaced with ball joint type aftermarket ones. NEED TRW control arms

Walnut Blasting necessary as often as every 40-50k miles. Do this with new intake manifold gaskets (Walnut Blast and New Intake gasket @ 65k)

Waste gates: Waste gate rattle both internal and external to the turbo will begin in some cases as early as 70k depending on a number of factors. Some things can directly cause this however like vacuum lines. Adding catless downpipes will magnify waste gate rattle issues. Failing wastegate thrust bearings can cause under/overboost conditions as the wastegate arms inside the turbo can Jam.

Vacuum lines going from the vacuum pump to the vac canisters and ones going from the waste gate solenoids to the turbos can crumble and leak. Will cause underboost codes and or waste gate rattle in most instances.(Verocious Platinum Cured Silicone Vacuum Lines @75k )

Smoking: Caused by a number of different things from the PCV system to turbos. The valve cover PCV system can internally fail and cause significant smoking/consumption. Adding downpipes to the car further makes the smoking more apparent as the cats are no longer 'filtering' the smoke coming through them. (RB PCV valve)

Tunes/Tuning: The N54 is run by an extremely complicated ECU (MSD80/MSD81) and when you begin to tamper with this many things can happen
· After adding a tune, if you haven't already, you will have to do plugs/coils soon as the increase in boost level taxes the coils further

· MHD Tuning is a proper flash tuning alternative and allows user customization as well as a number of different off the shelf tunes
Fuel System: When 'tuning' to extremely high power levels, fueling needs become a concern. People are currently adding secondary in tank pumps, secondary high pressure pumps and secondary direct port injection fuel rails as well as meth to compensate.( I have my car tuned with cobb. As it's my DD and I have never had issues or any reason to change a very simple setup)

Cooling System:

· Water Pump/Thermostat is good to around 100k. Past that and you're on borrowed time assuming you haven't done many coolant flushes(water pump changes @ 43.5k)

· Oil cooler: If you don't have a factory installed one, you need one as any spirited driving will drop you into limp mode. If you do have one, this alone won't keep you safe if you do an extensive amount of hard driving/track/drift/etc. Additional aftermarket oil cooler setups are recommended

· Adding an intercooler is a good idea for any car street or track to keep the extremely high IATs down that are caused by the twin turbos. (Wagner FMIC @ 57k)

Vanos: Expect to do vanos solenoids around 100k or sooner depending on how often the oil was changed. You can sometimes get away with cleaning them but typically vanos codes (2A87/2A88) will return. Worst case scenario is oil pressure to vanos hubs is being lost through cam trays ("hook ring seals") Cam trays/ledges will need to be replaced as well as the updated Teflon cam seals

Differentials: If you're into performance driving you will want an LSD. The factory open diff is sufficient for many but not most. There are a number of aftermarket alternatives available in this regard from gear type to clutch type.

"Limp Mode": Arguably the most infuriating thing about these cars is they will frequently for a number of reasons engage limp or failsafe mode (half engine light). This can be caused by a number of things from a cooling system issue, under/over boost, vanos, fuel injection, misfire, etc. ( happened once @ 48k when I accidentally pulled off one of the vacuum lines from the canister when detailing the engine bay)

Boost Leaks: Factory Charge pipes going to the throttle body randomly fail at stock or elevated boost levels. The factory diverter valves can also leak. The Hot side charge piping rarely leaks. Adding an intercooler also adds more couplers and clamps that can leak. Boost leaks can and will cause extra wear on the turbos as the ECU attempts to compensate for the loss of boost by working the turbos harder. (VRSF Chargepipe @ 56k)

Oil System: Besides the aforementioned leaking issues, these engines are sometimes riddled with sludging issues because of BMW's suggested oil change intervals. This can sometimes lead to stuff like Rod knock although this is fairly uncommon and seemingly random(oil changes every 5k miles)

Battery: Extremely overlooked and neglected this simple thing can cause widespread havoc on your car. Keep it in good condition. When it's starting to fail the IBS system will decouple the battery after you shut the car off thus turning the water pump off after the car shuts down that acts as a 'turbo timer' to cool the turbos down after shutdown. New Battery's need to be 'registered.' If changing battery capacity, battery needs to be 'coded' to CAS module. (New battery @ 67k)