[bbnks2]

I am not too sure the above info is accurate. You can't say that changing sway bars changes roll couple distribution but then also say it's inconsequential to weight transfer and grip. Roll couple distribution is what determines if the load is distributed more to the front or rear in a steady-state cornering situation. If one end of the car is more heavily loaded than the other then you are leaving grip on the table since the relationship between load and traction is not linear. We want to distribute load as evenly as possible to maximize traction. Keep in mind that tuning for steady state cornering is not the same as corner entry and exit where you may want to give up grip on one end of the car or other to prioritize entry or exit. But, to the point above, you can also manipulate this behavior with rebound/compression tuning.

So yeah, it's true changing body roll does not change weight transfer by much, but changing roll couple distribution F:R absolutely does change where the weight transfer occurs. Thus, either hurting or improving overall grip that is able to be generated by the loaded tires since, again, the relationship between load and traction is not linear. 1700lb front load + 1500lb rear load = 1.3g of grip. 2000lb front load + 1200lb rear load = 1.2g grip (just making up numbers to illustrate the point).

You can read all sorts of stuff that says "stiffer rear bar = more oversteer." What's important to understand is that that is being said within the context of moving from a NEUTRAL setup to a RELATIVLY STIFFER rear bar. Thus, moving the roll couple distribution rearward and inducing oversteer.

If your car is setup with a high front roll couple distribution as is, and you move to stiffer rear springs or bar, you won't necessarily push the car into oversteer but rather return it to a more neutral balance. Everyone likes to make the front end really stiff because we all understand that mcpherson + roll = bad. While a front end see's more dynamic load and a slightly forward roll couple distribution is desirable/faster that's only to a point. You also don't need to leave the rear alone/soft to make the front roll less. You can keep the car balanced while rolling less... thus maintaining a more even roll couple distribution and higher grip.

Another consideration is REAR BUMP STOP engagement. 750lb out back is not much at all. The dynamic load of cornering and accelerating is likely putting you down onto the rear bump stops. Very rough numbers: 750lb = 250lb wheel rate. Just accelerating at .5-.6g you're loading up the rear wheels with ~1000lb /250 = 4" of compression travel at the wheel and ~2.7" at the strut. It will feel great until it doesn't and you hit the bump stop. Then boom you're going from lots of rear grip to oversteering. Go check how much strut travel you have from static ride height to bump stop engagement. I would bet that it's 3" or less. I say all this about rear bump stops because a lot of people complain about a loose rear end so they're afraid to go stiffer in the rear. Well talk about counter-intuitive... it may just be the thing you need to do!

Fyi, I currently run 800/900 true rear which is 800/1800 in a divorced setup.