[WhatsADSM]

Originally Posted by bNks334

Upper intermediate and the car has a manual transmission.

MHD for n55 only recently defined the tables for the water pump. Custom tunes are starting to be flashed that run cooler despite higher boost. I'll find out this summer how well it works on track. You can upgrade you're radiator but a custom tune that spins the water pump faster helps too to extract additional heat from the head...

Best bet is to track it and see what you need. You'll be fine stock though for now.

I appreciate the input!

See houtan's post below, I think it seems its marginal for the DCT. But like anything there are lots of variables that go into it.

Originally Posted by houtan

I can tell you at button willow on a 90 degree day I could barely do one lap without my oil temps touching 280. Stock ppk flash, fbo, stock coolant, heater on full blast. My car is DCT. The radiator on DCT/at cars has two separate circuits, one for the motor, and one for the transmission heat exchanger, so we may see increasing temps in less severe scenarios compare to MT cars.

I think the csf radiator may be the best first modification, then oil cooler. If that doesn't work then I would consider replacing the trans heat exchanger with a stand alone cooler, then I could run a MT csf radiator which would now be cooling engine only, and then upgraded oil cooler.

I'm hoping the radiator upgrade will do the trick. As I would prefer not to plumb a trans cooler.

Would love to here how the csf oil cooler performs. Such a simple install.

I agree all of my research seems to indicate that water temps need to be dealt with first and foremost, certainly on the automatic/dct cars. I am going to run a CSF radiator for sure, that was never a question. Everyone that I have read that uses it has fantastic results, and for the price its a no-brainer.

Where I am struggling is... what to do for the oil cooler. One part of me wants to just run it as-is (just as bNks334 suggests). I *might* never actually need it in the first place, and any time you move away from OEM parts my experience is you add one more point of potential problem. Not to mention it costs nothing to do nothing
However on the flip side it is fairly well known that the N5x has oil temp issues, particularly the N54 but N55 to some degree as well. And I figure while I have the front all apart I could probably try to address the issue. The CSF oil cooler struck me as an interesting option since it is supposedly a plug and play ordeal. No new lines, no changes at the OFH, nothing. They cross reference that oil cooler as the same cooler use for an oil cooler on a 335, as well as the DCT cooler on the E9x M3. As far as I can tell there are no reviews of it anywhere as an oil cooler.

Other options are Stett, Dinan, or roll my own (with a Setrab core). I could roll my own, but honestly I have enough other stuff to do to the car and would rather not try to reinvent the wheel. I wish Ginger_Extract would finish his bracket so I could just do that.

Originally Posted by infinitekid2002

If you're going to track it you need an upgraded oil cooler. You'll also need some upgraded brake lines, brakes, fluid. I use ER and it worked because i had limp mode issues first time at the track.

Do you have an N54 or N55? DCT or 6MT?

I'm aware I will need a lot more than just water/oil cooling to make it track worthy. FWIW this is the plan for right now - its a sort of budget street/track build. Feel free to critique:
Suspension:
M3 front arms, M3 Rear Guides, possibly M3 rear uppers just because, Megan toe arms, Whiteline RSFB, ST XTA coilovers (actually an e88 kit on my e82 for a rear more rear spring rate out of the box), 1M strut bar so I can access the adjusters.
Brakes:
- 340mm sized front F30 calipers and associated 340x30 semi-floaters (non-directionally vented though ), stock 135i rotor/caliper in the rear. In terms of pads all-around PFC01s if PFC gets to making the pads for the F30, otherwise probably Pagid RS29. Castrol SRF and Stoptech front and rear stainless lines.
- I *might* add DIY front brake ducting. My buddy swears up and down that I'm going to annihilate my front brakes even with the 340mm upgrade and that I should just plan on ducting it right away. I have been known to brake late and very hard. Last year when I took my M3 out to Gingerman I actually had the 380mm front Stoptech's with Pagid RS29s pouring smoke off the fronts. I dunno maybe he is right, but then again this car is notably lighter than the M, has slightly less power, and wont be on take-off slicks. Sort of up in the air on this one too?!
Power:
- Intercooler, Chargepipe, Downpipe, Custom tune on MHD by your's truly.
Cooling:
- CSF Radiator. Unknown oil cooler
Wheels/Tires:
- Apex ARC-8 18" Staggered set with either 245/265 Hankook z214 C51 R-comps, or 235/275 Nitto NT-01s.
Misc:
- Diff lockdown kit?

Wish I could afford a real differential, nicer coilovers, turbo upgrade and even more potent braking setup. But for now I think this is the best use of a somewhat limited budget. Down the line I can do more, but hoping this will keep me happy in the meantime while I learn a new (to me) car.