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      09-11-2013, 07:49 PM   #13
andrey_gta
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Drives: 130i coupé ;)
Join Date: Nov 2011
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2008 BMW 128i  [10.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by 135iNewb View Post
Before removing the glass, get to know this clip.
It sits inside the hole in the glass.
When you are ready to lift the glass out, pull the plastic clips away from the glass, and lift the glass.
This pic was taken with the glass already out, just so you can see the hole in the glass and how the clip works.



NOTE: When reinstalling the glass, remember how much play there is between this little clip, and that large hole in the glass.
If you tighten the gear bolt and this is not centered, your window wont close all the way.
Or it will be too far forward, or too far back.
It is important to center this connection, if you dont want water leaking into your car.

Any tips on this. Im having a real bad time alignignt the glass.

I thought i had it perfect, tightend down to final state. But a few door open closes messed everythign up- the glass seems to have moved or the motor stops at a different position

UPDATE - glass set up information
I had to reset my window limits to get glass perfect. I recommend doing so for everyone in this situation.

here are steps:
- before you set glass or install new regulator, look at your old window regulator, and see where it has the pieace with 2 bolts that are bolted facing the ground. this connection has an adusting skrew, with external torx head- you may need to chnage this position at the very end if there is alot of difference with new vs old regulator. The adjustemnt allows the glass to be coser to futher away from car center. I did not do this adjustemnt, but it may be nessasary if the diference is drastic. This is reacable via bottom of door through a rubber seal tha can be popped out. External torx is able to sit inside the circled side of a regular wrench of similar size, ie 1/4

- Set glass into door and onto the holders with dindow rollers at middle position, the default of new regulator.
- Clip the plastic clips through the glass, use thin skrew driver through the hole of the gear bolt to check aligntment. Also the plastic clips should make some kind of clicking feel/noise when closed, its faint sicne there is no clip, just a groove.
- Set glass into lowest possition that is parralel to B pillar. It is better to be too low than too high!!!
- Tighten by hand, to allow some wiggle room.
- mask off B pillar black plastic trim to prevent damage/scratches
- Roll window down. Here it may be nessasary to hold down button for 10 seconds, then hold it again for 10 secconds. You should hear the motor click but do nothing. ( this can be skipped at this stage but may be useful if you have issues with top position, this sets the windows minimum position)
- Now with door open!! Roll window up little by little, do not let auto mode set in ( this will prevent you from issues at top position and motor sieze or motor pinch protection)
- Once you are close to top position of opened door ( ie the 1.5 cm gap at the door mirror rubber seal), carefully roll window till it stops. Note its position with tape or water based marker.

- If your window at this point has had the motor siezed or is has dropped down because of pinch protection mode. Unplug motor. Unskrew the philips skrew at motor, remove plastic pieace. Now unskrew the 3 torx 20's. with butter knife or flat head screw driver gentry pry motor off. Notice you will be tugging and pulling at the wire spool. Use flat head or butter knife to push motor off the spindle/spool. Lower window by hand, while keeping an eye on spool so it does not pop out, check window aligntment, maybe you need to loosen and lower the window on its mounts. Wiggle the motor's gear to reset it and let it cool off. Re attach motor and get the window to its open door position.

- use other door as a guide or previous notes on glass position. Loosen the gear bolts by hand ( you should be able to do so by hand) alaign window to match other sides position at the stage just before you push/click the door lock ( Geneally for me it was 1.5 cm gap from side mirror rubber top and the othr side you sould see the ruber seal from outside to be at the base of the CCC logo of OEM glass, this creates a 1.5 cm gap from window to window trim leaving a small hole into cabin)
You can close the door once or twice to make sure it pushes up 1/4 inch in a parallel way to the B pillar. Be careful though as the motor may sieze, have a way out, or tools to take motor out.

- To tighten the glass into final position. Lower gentry the glass via motor controls until you can reach at least one of the gear bolts with your adjustable pliers or Monkey wrench. DO NOT tighthen just yet. Using maskign tape, mark the positions of the rubber seal on outside of car just before the glass enters the door. AND at the edge of the door, see how far the glass is from edge, mark with tape on the trim. This way you can tell if glass has shifted up or side to side while tightening.

- check your tools, cover them in tape as needed to prevent scratches on door or glass.

- Tighten the glass gear bolts at the same time, make sure that your tape markings do now move. Periodically check the glass top position with the door open. Careful not to sieze the motor, have tools handy. You can also stress test the door, open and close it a few times. This can cuase motor to sieze... yes I know its a drama queen

- Now with glass in final position it is good to reset Window limits. Sit inside, close door. Hold down on the window switch until it fully opens, continue holding the switch for 10 seconds. Then release. Pull up on the window switch until it fully closes, continue holding the switch for 10 seconds. Then release. repeat a few times, you may hear a clunk/ motor noise click. Now put window down and release button, not press it down again, you should hear a click. same with up position, rease switch and press up to hear noise.

- go for a drive to make sure seal is ok. you can open the door from inside by tugging on the black little stick near your elbow.

- decide if you will adjust the glass agnle towards center of car via boorom of door rubber seal to the bolt. I did not, but you may want to try

- grab a beer to relieve stress and then reassemble door.
__________________
128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, 3.73 diff, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: //M front arm, M3 rack, e36M lip Wishlist: Coils, n55 mnts, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff


"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is

Last edited by andrey_gta; 09-12-2013 at 10:27 AM..
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