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I just finished my brake ducting project and I thought I'd post up the photos for you guys to see. I used the same 3" proper race ducting that you use in the V8 racecar series here in Australia.
I used tin snips to cut a rectangular/oval shaped in the stock backing plates then squashed the hose into an oval and fixed it using steel ties. This positioning means that pretty much all of the air goes straight to the centre of the rotor.
I ran the hosing underneath the strut (tight squeeze but doable), under the tie rods and cable tied it to the bottom of the sway bar. With this method, there is no rubbing on the hose from the wheel even at full lock and I gave enough slack so that the tie rod doesn't rub on the hose either. I am not sure whether this is possible on stock struts as they may be slightly longer and not have as much room.
I cut out the corner of a bit of the under engine tray and the hose fit through there. It sits behind the wheel arch trim. I completely removed the stock brake ducting on the left side of the car and cable tied an oval shaped funnel to it which the other end of the hose was fixed to with cable ties. On the right side, I removed just the brake ducting section and sat the oval funnel vertically rather than horizontally and left the stock oil cooler ducting in place.
I gave it a bit of a test run on Monday at the track. I am using Castrol SRF brake fluid with ECS SS lines, stock rotors and stock calipers with ProjectMu HC+/HC800 pads. At the previous track day I destroyed a set of ECS 2 piece rotors with these pads and on 235/265 AD08Rs. On Monday at the same track and with the OE blank rotors, Hankook Z221 C50 245/265 semi slicks and the same fluid and pads I managed 2 seconds faster than my PB (1.06.57) and also didn't experience any of the same brake fade even with 16 continuous hard laps.
Happy to answer any questions.
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