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      11-15-2009, 08:57 AM   #8
Justin(OKC)'s Avatar

Drives: 1988 M3, 1990 M3
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Oklahoma City, OK

iTrader: (7)

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Hey guys, thanks for all the comments. Here are some answers to some questions:

Blacky, the dampers and springs cost me about $4500.

Primo135, it is so dumped it looks stupid. I'm going to try to fix that today but I'm so sore that I have sensation in parts I didn't know were on my body

Snertz, they are AST 5200's.

arrutled, I wish it was a screwdriver. If you look at the pics I posted, there is a shot of the special tool on the passenger rear subframe bushing so that you guys could see it. Without it, I'm not sure how you would get it out (and I have cut bushings out on my E36 M3 before)

vitig, In addition to the swaybar and subframe bushings I've got the rear upper link kit, rear guide rod kit, and the rear lower camber link from the M3. With the rear camber link I have to use M3 shocks

larryn, you got it man. I might have some other pics of the tool if you need some. The hardest part of the install had to do with the front subframe bushings. The M3 bushing install from the top instead of the bottom. What makes it harder is that the subframe is tapered opposite of how the M3 bushings install. To help with the installation we used a hose clamp around the new bushing to compress it and make it easier to go in without stripping/shaving rubber off the bushing. The stock bushing you can twist in your hand, the M3 bushing are solid rubber. HUGE difference. I will definitely post my thoughts when I get it all sorted out. It was too much to do a DIY, but I thought I would post something for those that have some mechanical ability (like yourself). Looking at some of the things you have done and talked about on the forum, larryn, I think you have the ability to do the rear problem. The bushings are cake if you can borrow the tool from someone.

Yes, I do have the front M3 bits as well. I think I have converted almost everything possible on the car. I used a lot of info from orb to help make my decision. Hopefully there will be some sort of toe link available for the rear like orb has on his car. When that occurs, I will buy it. As far as the alignment. I'm trying to get suggestions and ideas. If you have any, please share I'm thinking for the street -1.5 camber front and rear (I may have to do more on the back to fit the forgelines under there....totally different topic that I will go into once I try to test fit them). These are the guidelines that I got from Harold at HP: 1/16" total toe-in for the front with -1 to -1.5 of camber. For the rear, 3/16" total toe-in with -1.5 to -2.0 of camber.

I'll be back under the car a bit today. If anyone has anything they want photographed, just let me know!! Thanks again for all your comments, guys.

Oh, if you were wondering....I think the hardest part of the install was getting the rear muffler hanger (rubber) disconnected to drop the exhaust and getting the rear swaybar bushing mounted up. As I told my friend, Bryan that took the lead on the install.....I've never seen a swaybar bushing that was easy to install.
1988 BMW M3 - Hennarot/Black