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      11-15-2009, 10:45 AM   #10
Justin(OKC)'s Avatar

Drives: 1988 M3, 1990 M3
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Oklahoma City, OK

iTrader: (7)

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Originally Posted by arrutled View Post
Oh i see the tool! nice!

Anyways... questions. 1) It appears you installed the rear guide rod and tension links from the M3 and I want these parts! what kind of difference did you feel from just those? 2) what spring rates did you go for? 450-800?? 3) is this a daily driver? if not, then dont you really want 0 toe if not a little toe out up front. from what I understand when cornering with toe out you have your inside tire making a tighter turn than your outside wheel(which is a good thing). Toe in is good for making your car go straight, because it fights turning.

looks like a great setup! can't wait to see it all done and hear your impressions!!
In that photo above, we are actually installing the bushing. We didn't have an open end wrench that was the right size so we used a deep socket. We ran out of room so we had to use a bushing as a "spacer" to give us the ability to use the socket. That photo shows the other bushing we were using as a spacer to get the job done. I just realized that without an explanation, that photo looks weird. Springs are as follows:

Swift Springs with Thrust Sheets (392# front/784# rear - 7"/8")
Swift Rear Helper Springs

I totally went off the recommendation of Harold at HPautowerks. After seeing what brracing is doing with their car, I will likely be playing with spring rates. My gut feeling is that I will want a heavier spring up front, but I'm going to try this and see how it goes.

Thanks for the input on the toe. My experience with driving this car out of alignment is that the rear alignment makes a huge difference in how this car drives. It was almost dangerous feeling when I took it around the block last night. Way too much toe-in in the rear. I'll eyeball it today and see if it helps. BTW, raising the back of the car is not as easy as other cars I have had
1988 BMW M3 - Hennarot/Black