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Just did my break-in oil change at 1651 mi, and I thought I'd share my observations (car is a 128i N52). JimD, feel free to add my comments to your OP if you find anything useful:
-I measured off 6 qt 24 oz ± 4 oz (approx 6.8 qt) captured from my drain pan. This does not include stuff I siphoned off from the filter housing (another few oz?) and the bunch that I managed to splash into the underbody tray...(more on that later) In turn, I filled up 6.9 qt no questions asked. So I think this definitely proves that the capacity IS approx 7 qt, filling low is pointless seeing as you're draining off nearly 7 qt.
-To fill it back up if you have the big 5 qt jugs (I got Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro really cheap at Walmart for $22/jug on sale!), you could either measure off from the second jug what you need, or what I did was pour off until I the oil level left was between the 3L and 3qt marks. Since the first jug is 5qt/4.73L, pouring until you're between the 3L/3qt line gets you between 6.48L (or 6.85qt) and 7qt. The official capacity is 6.5L or 6.9qt, so I went until I was just a smidge below the 3L mark. Should be close enough, since lots of people fill all the way to 7 with no issues.
-Or you could make it easier and just get 7 single quart bottles. Bulk is usually cheaper though, if you can work with the volume.
-Make sure you get a filter wrench that you can actually use. I realized that my BMW OEM wrench needs a 27mm socket - not something you ordinarily have or easy to find for that matter. Got a nice set of impact sockets from HF for $15 + tax (1/2" drive needed). Save yourself the trouble and just get a filter wrench that either fits your 3/8" drive or a more ordinary socket size. The others here have already offered suggestions.
-Next time, I'm going to remove my plastic underbody tray to do the oil. Overkill? Probably. But me being the slightly messy type when it comes to auto work, it'll save on clean up. It looks like it only needs a few screws anyways.
-Rhino ramps will do (7" of lift?), but the car is still ridiculously low. If you have the supplies, use jack stands for more clearance.
-Also make sure you have some sort of metallic pick/tool to remove the o-rings from the filter housing. Fingers and plastic tools will NOT suffice.
OK that's all I remember. Time to keep piling on the miles (and find supplies to do the MTF and diff fluid too, before the miles get too high)!
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