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      11-17-2017, 02:36 PM   #9
N54guy08
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Drives: 2008 135i 6mt n54
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Arkansas

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Very Strange, Also Very Interesting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatOneKid View Post
Have you reflashed your map? No codes after replacing those plugs correct?

How certain are you that you don't have a vacuum leak?

How certain are you that you don't have a boost leak? (maybe a cracked intercooler?)

I have a stock turbo outlet pipe thats yours if you want to pay shipping for it. (it has good o rings)

Very strange about it going into power when it should when its cold, but not after heating up.
Yes I've flashed back to stock and same issue. No more codes or misfire after those 2 plugs were changed. I've done many various tests that lead me to believe there are no vac leaks. Checked all piping, inlets, ect. And all seems well but i have no way of doing an actual boost leak test. Yes its weird that it runs better before warming up. Could it be the DME cutting back on boost due to the radiator fan currently not functioning? I have not let coolant temps go above normal though.


So great news. Power is back to normal for the most part and the car feels great again, but it also brings up a few questions. Im not sure what I did! After this thread died without anymore input from anyone, I kept digging deeper. Vac lines, nothing. CP and intercooler O-rings, nothing. I was afraid it was turbos but the WG's closed at 7 inHg and held vacuum which led me to believe it wasn't bad turbos. Desperate attempt, flashed back mhd stg1, still nothing. Started looking closer into parameters of logs, AND HERE'S THE INTERESTING PART. "Throttle closures?! But due to the wreck, passenger side DSC sensors were shattered causing the yellow brake light and yellow triangle w/arrow light and DSC MALFUNCTION message on iDrive screen" shouldn't this mean that traction control is off? So why is it still on, and to what seemed to be AT THE MAXIMUM DEGREE as bad as the throttle was closing to prevent wheelspin. Flashed to mhd stg0 and lowered load through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd and also added the MT shift bog fix (the newest version that actually works) and boom! The car feels great again? Btw, this IS the very short version of a long descriptive story. Feel free to ask any further questions but the car feels great again but I just dont feel like i really did anythig that could have helped the engine response and power that drastically.

Last edited by N54guy08; 09-19-2018 at 05:01 AM.. Reason: PROBLEM RESOLVED ( ITSELF? )
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