View Single Post
      08-09-2017, 12:16 AM   #165
Derk1127
Private First Class
United_States
10
Rep
112
Posts

Drives: 2009 AW 135
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Seattle, WA

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derk1127 View Post
I just installed the nolathane bushing kit in my car. Looks exactly like the whiteline kit and the best thing is I was able to get it shipped with a rear diff bushing kit for under 170. Some things to add on the install:
I didn't have to disconnect any brakelines, just unclipped the sensor cables and the ebrake cable. I didn't have to undo the rear struts. I have a berk street axle back and I had to undo the bolts holding it to the mid pipe to get a little extra clearance. It's a fairly easy install, the bushing goo is messy after you heat them. I can see how it can be tricky manipulating the jacks I think it's a simple enough install that you might as well put in the work for it than just putting in the bushing inserts.
Necroing this post but...

Thx for the advice! You are correct, you can get enough room without dropping the muffler or disconnecting brake lines if you have two jacks and pay attention. I am jealous of those who are getting the bushing to slide out with heat and the cars weight. Tried it. HAve one rear about 1" out. Won't go more. I am using a heat gun not propane torch...you mentioned "goo"...are you literally melting the bushing? Maybe that's my problem... I may just order the tool tomorrow ($300). Seems like HP Autosport has them "backordered" so I am not sure I can even rent a set. Ironically, I borrow a friends $500 assortment bushing tool set...nothing would work for our cars. Amazing.
I remember having to get the bushing really warm. The bushing itself doesn't have an outer sleeve or anything so it was more about getting the bushing pliable than expanding the subframe with the heat. I'd try concentrating the heat on the bushing with the heat gun or using a torch.
Appreciate 0