Quote:
Originally Posted by CarJunkie
That's awesome.
The 1M has so much potential with suspension adjustments. I have spent years tweaking mine slowly, using track days and autocross to find the best setup.
Mods are in sig. Ride height is about 15mm lowered in the front from stock, and about 5mm lowered in the rear. I run -2.5 degrees camber and zero toe in the front, -1.8 camber and 1/16" toe in at the rear. Track setup has PFC-08 pads all around and a square wheel/tire set, currently Toyo T1R 275/35/18, Ohlins set to 3 clicks out from full stiff in front, 4-5 clicks out in rear depending on track. The square setup produces massive front braking grip, and the rear feels too light in 120mph+ braking zones if the rear shocks aren't softened slightly. Turn-in, mid-corner rotation, and power delivery through track out is really well balanced and well communicated. The car feels confident to slide in at any speed. (OK, I haven't slid at 130 yet . . . probably wouldn't want to!)
I store it during the winter. I use PS4S on my stock wheels and set the Ohlin's at 10 clicks from full stiff during the fringe seasons (March-early april and late Sept-Nov where I live). It is still a great touring car and back roads warrior when set up this way.
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I have regularly experienced the same rear-getting-light in high speed braking zones and it drives me crazy.
I have Ohlins R/T as well and have tried softening the rear (7-10 clicks) vs front (4-5 clicks), changing the toe (don't know what I'm really doing there) and putting on a less aggressive pad on the rear -- none of it has dialed it out completely. It wouldn't be surprising if some of this is braking-technique-related as well.
It had not occurred to me that this is a natural byproduct of running a square setup so I find this strangely reassuring.