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Originally Posted by tjswarbrick
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Started with interior, then engine bay, and wheels. Then some 303 on the top.
Gave 'er a 2-bucket, 2-mitt wash with the Meguiars Ultimate Wash & Wax, followed by clay bar using their detail spray, and wiping down with the microfiber they provided in the box. Was still wet and smeary, so went over it with Optimum Spray Wax and a new, dry microfiber.
In the future, there is no sense in using a spray wax on the vehicle that you are prepping for paint correction.
Spray waxes/quick detailers can temporarily mask/fill defects which may effect how you proceed with the paint correction process.
There is no need to perfectly dry a vehicle to a streak free finish if you intend on compounding and polishing it. Save a little time and effort.
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I don't expect to do this too often, but want to do it right when I do, so picked up the Harbor Freight variable-speed random-orbit 6" polisher. Ordered 2 each 6.5" Lake Country orange, white and black pads - along with cleaner and a brush - which just came in last night.
I didn't get the little pads. I was planning to use terry wax applicators and microfiber towels for the places the 6.5" don't do well.
You can certainly polish by hand, but it will not be as effective as machine polishing. Spending an extra $30 or so on a few small pads and a backing plate is really worth it if you want uniform results.
If I put much more into equipment I may as well have brought it to a professional. Foolish decision?
I don't believe that is a fair assessment. I've helped many, many, many people purchase everything they need to get started with paint correction, and this can typically be accomplished for anywhere between $250-$500 depending on their goals and budget. Our multi-step paint correction services start at ~$800 for a smaller vehicle. Also, if you invest in the tools and products for yourself, you can keep your vehicles looking their best forever, so the savings is quite significant over the course of ownership compared to paying a professional  Sure there are "cheap" professionals out there... but the saying "you get what you pay for"
is typically very true in the detailing world, especially with regards to proper paint correction work.
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Got the message re: Dishsoap. I've read that cutting and sealing work better on a surface free of previous layers of wax. Any benefit to wiping down with denatured alcohol before either of those steps?
Dishsoap is a degreaser, and it can leave a film behind. There are degreasers made for use in automotive applications (click here). Mixing any car wash shampoo heavily (ie stronger than the recommended dilution ratio) will help to deep clean the surface and degrade any existing waxes or sealants. There is no way to know they are completely removed regardless of if you use a degreaser or not. A solvent, like isopropyalcohol, can help remove existing LSP. If you feel it is needed, go for it. IPA is often used after compounding and after polishing to remove any residual oils and to ensure the finish is perfect.
Is there a product you recommend for conditioning/protecting BMW canvas convertible tops? I used 303 to clean it, but the only protectants I've seen are for vinyl.
Absolutely. Since you mentioned 303, I will point you towards their fabric protectant. 303 Fabric Guard.
Product Review: 303 Fabric Guard by Zach McGovern |
Sorry for the delayed response...
See answers above in
blue
-Zach