Quote:
Originally Posted by Brule
I'm worried I'm going to snap an axle this year.
Is there a bolt on axle upgrade from an m3?
The m3 axles have thicker splines and different length than 135 335?
Or is it just a prick of a job pulling the hub off the axle?
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The reason why I need bigger axles is that the output flanges on the M3 diff is a larger bolt circle. This means the CV joints are bigger than standard and the diameter of the driveshafts is thicker. The splines that go into the wheel hub's drive flange are the same.
It is a major headache to get the driveshafts out and in. You need to press out the old driveshafts with a special tool mounted on the drive flange. If its rusty and siezed the whole knuckle assembly needs to be removed and taken to a 50 ton press. Once you get the old ones out, you need yet another special tool to pull the new driveshaft in.
I just bought this recently to tackle the job of pulling the m3 shafts in:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221720839...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I think the main weak point on a 135i/335i is the propshaft. On all 335is they have the inserted nut coupling which is a small CV joint, look up driveline failures and most of the pics are of that part failing. On my 135i I actually have a flex disc instead of an inserted nut coupling, but a lot of 135is also have the insert nut coupling. The problem is that upgrading the propshaft is going to be very difficult as the pinion on the diff would need to be changed to a stronger different flange. If you got a diff from a 135i with flex disc coupling (the 3 bolted flange) that would be a good candidate for an upgraded propshaft, but then you'd have to deal with getting an LSD fitted to the welded on ring gear. At this point you may as well throw on an M3 diff and driveshafts.