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      04-12-2009, 12:49 AM   #19
akak1997
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Drives: BMW 135 @ 135mph
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Los Angeles

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2008 135i  [0.00]
Finally! It Is Done!

This has taken much longer than anticipated but I'm happy to report that the strut bar is completed!!


It turns out much better looking in aluminum! the picture doesn't do it justice. The Aluminum looks so much better against the black/gray engine bay, it really pops! Also, this is way stiffer than what's on the market for the 1er. Check out the platform on this strut bar:


It's a Complete ring, not a horseshoe. Complete ring is way more rigid than a horseshoe. It is tough to make coz John has to figure out how to bump the platform over the stock bar mount point.


A tab is extend out from the platform for attaching the diagonal bars to the firewall mount. Those bars are made out of steel, and they're way stiffer than stock. Installing the diagonal bars is a bit more difficult because there are less room to work with. Remember to put a piece of cloth under where you work, since it's Very easy to drop a nut/washer/bolt. There's a extra washer in my engine bay now


Oh, and this will clear the oil cap:



You can pick from two material, Steel (~6lb) or Aluminum (~3lb).

And, there is two versions.
1. Strut bar that goes across the engine. (Steel: $325, Al: $375)
2. #1 + stock replacement, that goes diagonally to the firewall. This is for those who has Camber plates or gonna do camber plate. By replacing the stock bars, you free up the strut tower opening. (+$100)
Shipping/packaging is $32 via UPS

John hasn't update his website with the new product yet... but you can email/call him if you're interested. Mason Engineering



Installation:
If you're only getting the strut bar going across the engine, install is simple. Remove the stock strut bar bolt on both side and the strut bolt nuts. slide the new strut bar in, then just tighten everything up, Done!

The diagonal ones require some extra work. It'll be easier to do if you remove that cowl and air filter. Remove the trox bolt on the firewall, remove the stock bars, put the strut bar in. Then slide the new diagonal bars in. each of those bars are held down by 2 bolts and the stock bolt on the firewall. there aren't much room to work, take your time, or you're gonna drop something

Quick review:
I've got to drive on a short canyon road near John's place and with the new bar you can really feel the road through your steering wheel now Turn in is so much crisp and the car response faster to steering input. It's just a joy to drive it. With the new sway bar, I think the front is so solid now, the rear end is a bit easier to come loose. I felt one rear wheel lost traction for a split second when I's on that canyon road.

I's a bit worry when we're installing the bar since the bar fit so snug and something might knock/rub, but I don't hear any weird noise at all. I went past a very bumpy road on my way to dinner and no weird noise also.
Appreciate 0