Quote:
Originally Posted by Flagler ///M135
What type of internals did you use on the rebuild. I have zero mechanic experience, but at these prices, I may have to grab some tools and go to town. I have nothing to lose at this point. I want to remove the oil pan and see what type of damage I have before I go forward, but I have to remove a subframe and I'm just afraid!
Looking at other forums, there are a lot of people having issues with rods and bearings...from stock to modified engines. My gut feeling is that there will be a class action down the road, there has to be!
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Flagler,
I stayed with the stock internals since the machinist that rebuilt my engine stated to me that my pistons and conrods were still in excellent shape. And the guy builds the track engines for a good friend of mine and some VLN endurance teams. Everything that was replaced were the crank and bearings, Timing chain and guides/tensioners, front and rear main seals and also the conrod bearings.
My car was tuned in the area of 430-440 at the wheels. I also maintained oil change intervals every 5000 miles but during track season I change every 3rd track day which can amount to every 2-3 months. Once this engine is broken in again, I will stay at about 450WHP. I am happy with the power it gives and for the circuit it is perfect.
Most guys with issues I would say are the ones pumping out over 600WHP and over 25-28 pounds of boost and I don't think that these rods cannot handle that much boost. I know some single guys are in the 700's and 800's of WHP but I feel that eventually the conrods will fail on their cars.
I would entrust it to a good machine shop and allow them to diagnose and repair it. I am very mechanically inclined and do most of my work myself but I knew that I had to let a pro do this one.